May 16

Leaving Your Dog Alone At Home

How To Make Being Home Alone Less Stressful For Your Dog

You come home from work thrilled to be greeted by your four-legged best friend, but it’s soon obvious you weren’t the only one who had a rough day. Stinky accidents, chewed up belongings, destroyed furniture, another noise complaint from the neighbor—they’re all signs that your dog gets stressed when he’s home alone.

Whether it’s extreme separation anxiety or a general loathing of being left alone, not being able to safely stay home alone is a problem for some dogs. You hate the clean-up, but your pup is suffering from extreme stress. Staying home 24/7 isn’t an option, so here are a few ideas to help your fur-baby feel more comfortable and confident at home alone.

Create a Safe Space

There should be an area in your home where your dog feels the most safe and secure. For most pets, their favorite areas are small, comfy, and isolated.  It’s where they go to escape the chaos of the outside world, and it can be used to help them feel calm in moments of stress.

Even if you think your dog is bomb proof and not in the least bit nervous, there will be times when he will need a place to escape, a sanctuary. Create a safe haven for him and make everyone aware of it.

Most dog owners do this through crate training. The crate is never used as punishment, and instead, it’s a beacon of all things safe and good. If you don’t want to crate train, a small room or blocked-off area of the house will also work. If your dog isn’t confident enough to be left alone with unrestricted access to the entire house, keep him confined in his safe place while you’re gone.

Exercise Before You Leave

One of the most common reasons why dogs destroy things while their owners are gone has to do with pent up energy. Being home alone means there are no people to observe or play with, and for a dog that loves to be social, that’s a distressing situation. You can help ease the throes of your dog’s boredom by appropriately exercising him before you leave the house.  

If you have to leave him alone while you go to work, wake up a half hour early to take your pup for a walk. The physical activity will give your dog a chance to burn energy so that he’ll be better able to relax when the house gets quiet and boring.

Keep Calm

Dogs are perceptive family members, and if you’re worked up about something, they will be too. They can tell when you’re stressed or worried, and knowing that you, their pack leader, is anxious, this will make them upset and anxious, as well. When you are ready to leave the house, make sure you’re both calm.

Drawn-out goodbyes may make you feel better, but it actually makes your dog feel worse about the prospect of being home alone. Instead of telling him how much you love him and that you’ll be back soon, walk out the door without talking to or touching him. Start ignoring him several minutes before you leave, and simply leave like it’s business as usual.  This is difficult to do (and I know this personally), but this will show your dog that you’re not worried, and he shouldn’t be either.

 Start Short

Like every other lesson your dog learns, you can’t expect him to be an expert at staying home alone on his first try. It takes practice, and it’s best to start small. When you bring a new dog home, start the process by leaving him home alone for only five minutes at a time. Walk out the door as if you’re going to work and do a loop around the block. If he successfully passes that test, you can increase the time. If you want to avoid messy accidents, remember younger dogs shouldn’t be left alone as long as mature adults.

Provide Comforting Entertainment

There are several things you can leave out for your dog to provide both comfort and entertainment while you’re gone. An old t-shirt that smells like you will be comforting to him, even when you’re far away.

Make sure he has constructive ways to occupy his time when you’re not around. Stuff a Kong toy with enough goodies to keep him busy for hours. Fill a puzzle toy with his daily ration of kibble so he has to work for his meals. Hide treats or favorite toys around the house for him to find while you’re gone. If you want to leave other chew toys or interactive puzzles out for your dog, first make sure they’re 100% safe.

Never leave your dog unsupervised with a toy that could be chewed apart and swallowed. Before leaving your dog alone, make sure any toys in the environment are indestructible.

If appealing to their senses of smell and taste doesn’t work, many dog owners use soothing sounds to keep stressed-out pups calm. Try leaving the TV or radio on to make pupper feel like he’s not all alone. There are even audiobooks that are specifically made to help keep dogs calm while home alone.

Resist the Urge to Punish

When you come home to find your favorite shoes destroyed, a pile of poo on your new carpet, and an annoyed message saying your dog howled all day long, your first instinct is to yell and punish the dog. It’s a natural response, but it also makes the situation worse.

Dogs aren’t like humans, and so they can’t connect past behaviors with present punishments. So, if you punish them for chewing on something and wave the incriminating evidence in their face, they’ll have no idea what you’re doing. All that they will know is you’re mad and they’re in trouble. Unpredictable punishments will make them feel even more scared and insecure, which in turn will lead to more stress and behavioral problems when they’re left alone. It’s a vicious cycle that only you can break. Use positive reinforcement on days you come home to a clean house, but never use punishment on the bad days.

When you are home, give your dog some quality time. For a quick outing, take him with you when you run errands. Choose ones where you don’t have to leave him in the car, such as picking up the kids from school, going to the drive-thru at the bank or buying food at the pet supply store.

Go for a walk every day, and give him plenty of sniffing time. Play hide-and-seek games or other brain stimulating games with him. Practice his obedience commands. Beyond his walk, which should be an appropriate distance and speed for his breed and age, just a few minutes of these activities will enrich your relationship with your dog, even if he spends a chunk of the day without you.

 

 

Apr 26

How To Stop Your Dog From Jumping

Stop Your Dog From Jumping With These Tips

When dogs meet, they sniff each other’s faces. They like to do the same thing when greeting us, so it’s perfectly natural for dogs to jump up on us to try to reach our faces and get our attention.

While it is still a sign of affection, it is not exactly polite, and some people don’t appreciate a jumping dog. Also, allowing your dog to jump on people can be dangerous. Someone could end up scratched and bruised. A child or frail adult can be knocked down and seriously injured. Everyone knows that a fuzzy puppy is just too cute to resist.but we forget that cute behavior in a puppy can become a real nuisance when he grows up.

If you have a jumping pupper, you will do well to know some tips that will help redirect that excitement into something more appropriate. He can still greet all his human friends with the same level of love and affection, but it does not have to include jumping up.

Do not engage or interact a dog that is jumping

When your dog starts jumping around or jumping on you when you arrive, dog trainers recommend not responding. There are three different and important types of communication and rewards which dogs look for, and these are physical, visual, and verbal. When you deny him these communication forms or rewards, it will be a sign for him that his action at that moment (his jumping) is unacceptable behavior.

The only time that you should turn your attention to your dog is when he finally stops jumping (which is usually when he sees that he is not getting the results that he wants because of it). Take caution, though: when you finally respond to your dog and shower him with too much attention, there is a risk that he will get overly excited and start jumping again.

Teach your dog how to perform a new trick or skill

When you see your dog jumping, you may feel the urge to correct that kind of behavior. However, you need to refrain from doing so. Dog trainers recommend that the better thing to do is to teach him something new instead. When the dog starts jumping, teach the dog how to ‘back up’ – a command that you can execute when the undesirable behavior begins to show. When he follows, then that is the only time that you can pet him.

Teaching a dog how to back up goes like this: get his leash and drape it in front of your dog, and then put your foot onto the leash, taking care to show some slack. Stand up straight, and then in a cheerful voice say “back up” to your dog, stepping closer to him as you do so and sliding your foot as well as the leash forward.

Also put out one hand like it is a stop sign while you move into your dog’s space and he begins to move back. This is a very useful trick because when the dog starts to jump at any time during the “back up” process, your foot stepping on the leash will prevent him from jumping as high as he wants.

Follow up on this action by saying “watch” or by giving a “sit” command, and then pet him when he performs this. The “back up” command is also very useful when you find yourself in a situation where there is a possibility that he might jump, allowing you to prevent it. You may also use praise or treats to reward your dog for following your command and demonstrating acceptable behavior.

 

Do not push or lean over the jumping dog

There might be the desire on your part to physically prevent a dog from jumping by leaning over or pushing him, but you are probably going to send the wrong message when you do this. Instead of communicating your disapproval for the inappropriate jumping behavior, the dog might understand it as something that you like to do because you touched him.

Touch is usually something that a dog takes as a sign of approval, and you might find him leaning against you as a result instead of stopping because he might think that you want to play or wrestle.

Stand as if you were a tree

If your dog is really the excitable kind and still continues to jump even after you have implemented these tips, the last thing you should do is to stand very straight and tall like a tree. Cross your arms, then tilt your head up to look at the sky or the ceiling, and stop moving. Keep doing that until your dog has finally stopped jumping. When he stops, make one step forward.

If your dog begins the jumping behavior again, assume the tree stance again until he stops. Keep doing this until your dog realizes that if he wants to interact with you or if he wants you to finally acknowledge him, then he should stop the jumping behavior. Over time he will get this and you will begin to see the behavior that you want.

Some dogs who get extremely excited when greeting people may find it easier to grab a toy to shake or hold, rather than sit for petting. If this sounds like your dog, keep a toy by the front door. When you come home, open the door and immediately direct your dog’s attention to the toy or throw it for him. Do the same thing for your dog when visitors come to your home.

If your dog jumps on you when you’re sitting:

If you are sitting and your dog jumps up on you, stand up. Don’t talk to your dog or push him away. Just ignore him until all four feet are on the ground.

Some dogs are easily trainable and will learn not to jump within a few days of following these tips. Other dogs may be more stubborn, and it will take a longer time before they finally understand that you do not approve of their jumping.

Remember These Basics When Greeting Your Dog

  • Keep your attention and your hands away from your dog unless his front feet are on the floor.
  • Immediately give your dog attention and petting the instant his front feet land on the floor.

What NOT to Do

  • Do not become excited when you greet your dog. The calmer you are, the calmer your dog will be.
  • Do not shout at your dog when he jumps up on you or others. Shouting will just make him more excited and cause more jumping up.
  • Do not try to grab your dog or push him away. Doing that could cause more jumping up.
  • Do not knee your dog in the chest, step on his back toes, grab or pinch his front toes, or otherwise cause him pain or discomfort. If you do, you’ll frighten and hurt your dog, and he still won’t have learned how to politely greet people.

Be firm but loving, and never use a harsh voice when teaching your dog.  And remember, always reward good behavior!

 

 

 

 

Apr 10

Canine Thyroid Problems

Canine Thyroid Problems – What You Need To Know

There are many health conditions that can affect dogs, but thyroid problems are among the more common ailments.

Imagine your dog has started drinking water more often, going outside frequently to urinate, or starts eating more food yet loses weight. While these symptoms can be signs of quite a few disorders, it’s important to consider thyroid problems in dogs.

What Is a Thyroid?

The endocrine system consists of a group of tissues that release hormones into the bloodstream for travel to other parts of the body. Most endocrine tissues are glands (such as the thyroid gland) that release hormones directly into small blood vessels within and around the tissue. Several important hormones are released from tissues other than glands, such as the heart, kidney, and liver.

The thyroid is a small gland in the throat. The hormones produced by this gland regulate several bodily processes, and changes in the amount of hormones produced can create endocrine conditions in dogs.

Symptoms of Thyroid Conditions

Before learning about the symptoms of thyroid conditions, it’s important to know the two main types of thyroid problems, which may or may not be accompanied by cancerous growths called carcinomas. The two main types:

1.  Hyperthyroidism occurs when the thyroid gland is producing too much thyroid hormone.

2.  Hypothyroidism occurs when the gland is not producing enough hormones to sustain a normal level of activity.

Although many of the symptoms can indicate other conditions, as a dog parent you need to be aware of them. Thyroid conditions are more common in dogs age 5 and older, though they can affect any dog, regardless of gender.

HYPOthyroidism: Thyroid Hormone Deficiency (Most Common)                           HYPERthyroidism: Excess  Hormones (Rare)

Weight gain                                                                                                                             Weight loss
Dry or sensitive skin, sores                                                                                            Increased appetite or eating fast
Shedding or hair loss                                                                                                          Frequent urination
Lethargy                                                                                                                                    Excessive thirst
Sensitivity to cold                                                                                                                Heart rate elevation
Decreased heart rate                                                                                                        Vomiting/diarrhea
Weakness (muscle or overall)                                                                                      Difficulty breathing
Secondary infections (eye, ear)                                                                                   Enlarged thyroid or bulge in the throat
Nausea
Hyper, overactive behavior, restlessness
Coat dullness

Thyroid Tumors: Additional Symptoms if a Tumor Is Present

Coughing
Hoarseness
Noticeable change in bark
Round mass protruding from the throat area
Decreased appetite

Some of these symptoms may appear immediately. Others, such as coat dullness, will build up over time. It’s important to know your pet’s routine and habits so you can identify a change. Treating a condition as soon as possible typically gives your dog a better chance of recovery. This is important for thyroid conditions because leaving them untreated may be fatal. Your veterinarian will perform tests to evaluate your dog’s hormone levels.

To diagnose thyroid conditions in your dog, many tests may be performed together or independently by your vet. Tests to determine the level of thyroid hormone are the most common, but others may be necessary to evaluate tumors or abnormal thyroid tissues.

Evaluation: Tests may be performed to rule out other conditions. These may include a complete blood count (CBC), chemistry profile or urinalysis (or a combination of all three).
Thyroid Imaging or Scanning: X-rays and diagnostic tests help locate thyroid tissue and tumors to determine the extent of the affected area. These tests may confirm the diagnosis and pinpoint the areas needing treatment.
Biopsy: This will depend on your pet’s condition and the location and size of a tumor — plus the risk of hemorrhage.

Hormone Tests

Total T3: This test measures T3 levels but can be influenced by other factors. It is generally included in a complete thyroid profile.
Total T4: Thyroxine is measured using this test. Other conditions, age differences, drugs, or the size and breed of the dog can cause changes in T4 levels.
Free T4: This test is considered a more accurate indicator of thyroid activity; it measures the miniscule amount of total T4 that can enter the tissues. Dogs may have a low or high total T4 but a normal free T4, so it’s important to run this test in addition to the others.
TSH: Thyroid-stimulating hormones are measured by this test, but it has a high probability of inaccurate results (false positives, false negatives). A high or low TSH concentration cannot indicate a thyroid condition alone, so other tests are typically run (such as the ones above).

Treatments

Thyroid conditions can be treated and managed. The course of treatment will depend on the test results and the recommendations of your veterinarian. Dietary changes may also be directed but should be done only in consultation with your vet.

Hypothyroidism

This condition occurs when the thyroid levels are too low. The missing hormones are replaced with a synthetic supplement such as levothyroxine. In the event of removal of the thyroid gland, this supplement will replace the thyroid hormone that the body can no longer produce. (This is the same medication I have taken since my thyroid was removed.) Levothyroxine is generally inexpensive and can be administered in tablet or liquid form.

The medication is best taken on an empty stomach to ensure optimal absorption. It is also helpful to split the dose into two, with one being given in the morning and the other at night. It is important to give accurate doses; too much levothyroxine can cause symptoms associated with hyperthyroidism or cause a thyroxine overdose.

Hyperthyroidism

This condition occurs when the thyroid levels are too high or when too much levothyroxine has been consumed. Treatment options include radioactive iodine (facilities may be limited), chemotherapy, radiotherapy or anti-thyroid medication. Regular testing should be done after treatment to monitor the thyroid levels and/or any tumors or abnormal tissues.

Tumors

Tumor removal depends on a variety of factors. The size of the tumor, its proximity to the esophagus and major arteries, and if it’s benign or malignant will help your vet determine the best course of action. Common treatments include biopsy, surgical removal, medication, chemotherapy or radiation.

Another possibility when treating either condition is the potential reversal to the other type. If a dog with low levels of thyroid hormones is given too much medication, symptoms of hyperthyroidism may appear. Alternatively, the same is true for a dog with hyperthyroidism given too much anti-thyroid medication or as a result of any procedures done to reduce thyroid hormone production.

Administer medications as accurately as possible, and do not miss vet appointments.   Regular monitoring of a thyroid condition will give your dog the best chance for managing the disorder and minimizing complications.

No two dogs are exactly the same, so what works for your neighbor’s dog may not work for yours. It is imperative to give your pet only the medication prescribed by your vet. Even if your dog seems to be feeling better or symptoms lessen, do not discontinue any medications without your vet’s approval.

Although a thyroid diagnosis can be disheartening, many times it can be treated. Pay attention to the symptoms, keep your vet appointments, and follow all medication instructions to give your dog the best chance of living a long, healthy life.

 

 

Mar 24

Preventing Hairballs In Cats

Hairballs In Cats – Home Remedies For Prevention

You know that disturbing sound: your cat struggling to expel a hairball. The retching, gagging, and vomiting noises can wake you at night or ruin your lunch. As your poor cat struggles to rid herself of the alien product, you run for the paper towels and cleaning sprays.

Most cat parents are all too familiar with the sound of their cat dealing with the unpleasantness of hacking up a hairball. Hairballs are the tubular shaped by-product of regurgitated cat hair covered in digestive fluids.  It sounds gross, so just think of how  uncomfortable your cat feels when she’s got one coming up in her esophagus!

Hairballs, or trichobezoars (tricho-, meaning “pertaining to hair” and bezoar, meaning “a mass trapped in the gastrointestinal system”) occur after cats attempt to groom themselves.

Since cats prefer to be clean, self-grooming is a daily routine which means a greater chance she will unintentionally end up swallowing a bit of loose hair. Coughing or vomiting up hairballs occurs when swallowed hair is unable to pass through the digestive tract and out in the cat’s stool.

Hairballs in cats are more likely to appear in long-haired breeds, such as Persians and Maine Coons. Cats that shed a lot or who groom themselves compulsively are also more likely to have hairballs, because they tend to swallow a lot of fur. You may have noticed that your cat didn’t have hairballs as a kitten, but developed them as she grew. This is quite normal, because as cats get older they become more adept groomers.  They are therefore more proficient at removing fur from their coats with their tongues, which means more hairballs for you to clean up.

Many cat owners think hairballs are a fact of life, but you can stop these occurrences using a home remedy. Be sure to talk to your veterinarian before trying the techniques below, especially if your cat is elderly or dealing with a chronic illness.

Canned Pumpkin

This orange vegetable can help hairballs pass all the way through your cat’s system. Mix in one to two tablespoons of plain canned pumpkin to your cat’s food each day or a couple times a week. Be sure to choose pure pumpkin, not pumpkin pie filling, which has added sugar. You can add it as is, but for cats with a sensitive stomach, warm up the pumpkin. The natural fiber in pumpkin keeps your cat regular and assists in pushing swallowed hair out with bowel movements.

Olive Oil

Adding one teaspoon of olive oil to your cat’s food once or twice a week can prevent her from vomiting up hairballs. The oil lubricates the cat’s digestive system, which will allow the hairball to slide right on through without disturbing her tummy. Olive oil also helps pets digest their foods easier.

This should also cut down on stomach aches associated with hairballs. Other oils, such as mineral oil, corn oil or saffron oil can also help, but it’s important to ensure that your cat can tolerate these before you use any of them regularly.

Coconut Oil

Give your cat about half a teaspoon of coconut oil 2-3 times a week.  Some kitties love it and eat it directly off the spoon. You could put it directly on the food, or mix it in, as well.

Butter

A teaspoon of butter will work in the same way as the oil. Melt it in the microwave and drizzle over your cat’s food once a week.

Go Fishin’

Many canned fishes have natural oils, and some are often packed in oil. Give your cat a special treat of a bit of tuna or sardines occasionally. You can share your lunch with her by draining the oil from a can and putting a little of it on your cat’s dinner.

Cat Food 

As a precautionary measure or if hairballs are a persistent problem in your cat’s life, feed a hairball formula food. Like fiber rich foods, hairball formula food helps hairballs to pass through the digestive system while improving hair and skin health, and also reducing shedding.

Grooming

Shedding is the underlying cause of hairball formation, so removing loose hair from your cat is critical in eliminating hairballs. Brush your cat every day—especially she is long-haired, and during shedding periods. Your cat will learn to love these grooming sessions, and you may find it relaxing as well. It is also a great way to share bonding time together.

Invest in a good quality cat hairbrush and brush her fur daily to decrease the amount of hair that is ingested. To remove as much loose hair as possible, wipe her down with a damp cloth or a fragrance-free baby wipe in the direction of hair growth after brushing. Helping your cat with grooming is especially important for long haired cats and older cats.

Distractions (Toys!)

Maybe cat toys are the way to go! If your cat is grooming herself excessively, gift her with a new toy or play with her to distract her from having to constantly groom. You will reduce the occurrences of hairballs while also spending some quality social time together.

Important Things To Remember

If home remedies do not seem to help your cat or if you notice abnormal symptoms and she continues to cough up hairballs or things get worse, consult your veterinarian immediately. Abnormal signs and symptoms include vomiting or gagging up more than one hairball a day, constipation, diarrhea, lethargy, repeated coughing, unproductive attempts to vomit, and lack of appetite. These symptoms could mean an internal blockage that can potentially be life-threatening.

Hairballs are an unpleasant side effect of your kitty’s natural inclination to stay clean and beautiful.  The  job of cat parents is to allow that self-grooming, but take responsible steps to make sure it doesn’t result in a dangerous health hazard.

Mar 12

Springtime Pet Care Tips

SPRING PET CARE TIPS

Spring means more quality time outdoors with your pet, but it also means that pets are going to be exposed to a lot of hazards that they’ve been sheltered from during the colder months- busy roadways, plants, bees, other animals, the list goes on and on. Here are some tips for making sure that you both are ready to take on the outdoors and spend some quality time together.

·        Allergies

If your pet has allergies, be on the lookout for excessive scratching.  If your pet is doing a lot of this, especially after coming in from a walk, it could mean that it’s time to take a trip to the vet. If left untreated, allergies can lead to painful hot spots and infection, so it’s best to treat them early.  Please see my article Canine Allergies for more information.

·        Bees and Butterflies

With the weather warming up, your pet will be eager to get outside and start exploring. However, be cautious of buzzing insects; curious cats and dogs can be stung by bees if they stick their nose a little too close.

If your cat or dog gets stung, your best bet is to call your veterinarian and describe your pet’s symptoms. Like humans, animals’ allergic reactions differ in severity, so as soon as you notice that your pet has been stung, act fast to avoid further complications.

·        Grass Is Always Greener

April showers bring May flowers … and they also bring lush, green grass. Don’t be alarmed if your pet munches on grass now and again; for the most part, it’s completely normal. For whatever reason, most dogs nibble on grass from time to time. Please refer to my article Why Do Dogs Eat Grass? for more info.

If your dog makes a habit of eating grass in large quantities, it’s best to have your pet looked at. Eating grass can be a sign of an upset stomach, so if your dog has eaten something that isn’t settling, it might turn to grass as a natural remedy.

·        Bird’s the Word

Here are a few tips to keep your kitty from bringing Tweety Bird to your doorstep.

  • Fasten a bell to your cat’s collar. The noise will warn birds before it’s too late.
  • Feed your cat. It sounds simple, but making sure your cat is well-fed can help reduce its hunting urges.
  • Corral your cat during feeding hours. The times that birds are most active—around sunset and sunrise, or after bad weather—are also prime feeding times for your cat. Make sure your cat is inside during these times to avoid a feeding frenzy.
  • Elevate bird feeders. Avoid feeding birds on the ground. Place seed up in a feeder or on elevated ground. Even if your kitty is a climber, it will take more work for her and possibly give the birds enough time to see the imposing threat.

·        Sweet Treats

If the Easter bunny brought tasty chocolate treats for your family, make sure to store them in a safe place. Chocolate is toxic to dogs and cats. Dark chocolate and baker’s chocolate are the most toxic for your pet, while white chocolate and milk chocolate don’t pose quite as much of a risk. However, no amount of chocolate is good for them. If your pet ingests chocolate, take him to your veterinarian immediately.

·        Flower Power                                           

With gardening in full swing during the spring, pay special attention to poisonous plants that are accessible to your cat or dog. Popular outdoor plants that are poisonous to cats and dogs include rhododendron, sago palm, and azalea, to name a few. For a complete list of plants that are poisonous to your pet, go to ASPCA.org. 

·        Spring Cleaning

It’s time to clean house! When using harsh cleaning chemicals around your home, keep your pets out of harm’s way. Almost all cleaning products contain chemicals that are harmful to animals. If it’s a nice day, open windows while cleaning to air out the chemicals, or secure your dog outside while you clean and allow the chemicals to air out before bringing your pet back inside.

Whenever possible, use eco-friendly cleaning products. They are good for pets, people, and the planet!

·        Lawn-Care Essentials

Spring is a great time to get your lawn in tip-top shape. However, many of the chemicals used on your lawn and garden can be dangerous to your pet. Fertilizers, herbicides, and insecticides are usually poisonous and not meant for consumption. Always read the labels and heed the recommended waiting period before allowing your pet back on the lawn. Always skip cocoa mulch when landscaping! While it is lovely to look at, it is irresistible to dogs because of its chocolatey smell. It is toxic to dogs if eaten!

While composting is great for the planet, it’s not meant to be consumed by pets. As food and garden waste breaks down, it may grow mold. Curious pets that might nibble at your compost may become sick. Keep compost bins closed or out of pets’ reach.

·        Preventive Measures

Once the ground thaws, the bugs begin to emerge. Make sure your pet is up-to-date on its medications, including flea and tick medication and heartworm preventative. These medications should be taken monthly to keep your pet safe from these pesky insects and parasites.

If your pet does get a tick, follow these steps to ensure quick and painless removal:
1.     Wearing gloves and using a pair of tweezers, grab the tick as close to your pet’s skin as you can. Pull straight up in a swift movement, making sure not to grip too hard.

2.     Place the tick in a screw-top jar containing some rubbing alcohol. Screw on the lid.

3.     Disinfect the bite site on your pet. Wash your hands thoroughly, and disinfect all tools that came in contact with the tick.

4.     Monitor the bite site. If it is still inflamed after a week or so, bring your pet and the tick in to the veterinarian for examination.

An easy way to remove ticks is by using the Tick Twister, which is sold on Amazon.com.

·        License and Registration

Spring is a great time to be out and about with your pet. Taking long walks around your neighborhood, playing Frisbee in the backyard, and exploring nearby parks are fun ways to spend time with your pet. Just make sure your pet’s collar is up-to-date with current ID tags that include your name, phone number, and address, just in case your pet wanders a bit too far. Also, it’s best to have your dog or cat microchipped for easy detection if it is picked up by an animal shelter.

If your dog enjoys the dog park, proper registration and a permit for the park are often required, as well as an up-to-date license for the city that the dog park is in. Check with your local dog park for details.

·        Play Time

As springtime temperatures can sometimes get hot and humid, it’s possible for your furry friend to overheat if he spends too much time running and playing for long periods of time. Make sure this doesn’t happen by having a big water bowl with fresh, cool water or a small kiddie pool placed in a shady part of your yard.

While Springtime can bring hazards you want to be aware of, spending quality time with your pet and enjoying the warmer weather is what it’s all about. So, take precautions, but make sure you bring the fun!

 

 

 

 

Mar 08

Indoor Potty Solutions For Dogs

Indoor Potty Solutions For Dogs

There are  many good reasons to teach your puppy to go to the bathroom outside, but that is not always the most practical option. Particularly during the first few months with a young puppy, the constant trips outside during potty training may be too much of a challenge. Elderly or mobility-challenged owners may find frequent walks too difficult. Apartment dwellers without access to a yard may find the trip on the elevator and outside takes longer than their puppies can hold it. Also, when you don’t have a yard, keeping a puppy that is not yet fully vaccinated away from public areas limits your outdoor options. If having the  area potty area outside is too difficult for successful potty training, then moving it indoors might be the answer.

There are several ways of creating an indoor potty area for your dog. It can be as simple as using an area covered with newspapers or potty pads. But the cleanest and most hygienic solution is a litter box. You can purchase doggie litter boxes, some even come with artificial turf on the top, or you can simply use a large cat litter box. Make sure the box has shallow sides, so your dog feels comfortable stepping in and out. You can even cut a small doorway in one of the sides to help smaller puppies.

Line the box with newspaper, potty pads, artificial grass, or even cat litter. Some puppies will chew on anything, so be sure whatever you use is safe if your dog decides to eat it. And think about hygiene. The box liner should be either disposable or easily washed. Puppies also form preferences for the surface under their feet when they are going to the bathroom. If your puppy is uncomfortable using one surface, try something else.

When you first introduce your puppy to the litter box, concentrate on helping him become comfortable stepping in and out. Lure him in with treats and reward him for interacting with and then entering the box. Once he is happily going in and out, you can start using the box for potty business. The same techniques used for potty training outdoors are also used indoors; the only difference is that instead of taking your puppy outside, you will take him to his indoor spot. Supervise him and limit his freedom until he is showing reliability, just as you would for outdoor training.

If you have a fake grass potty, put some real outdoor grass or bark on top of your dog potty, better yet if it’s already peed on. The scent will draw your dog to the area.

For male dogs, there should be something like a small (preferably peed-on) fire hydrant, or a small tree stump in the dog potty. Frankly, another dog’s pee is even better to entice your dog to the dog potty.

Place your dog’s indoor spot in a low-traffic area of the house for your convenience, as well as for your dog’s privacy. Most dogs prefer some peace and quiet when it comes to doing their business. Wherever you place the indoor toilet area, be sure that it is where you want it to stay. Although you can move it later, you may need to move it very slowly, perhaps only inches a day, to prevent your dog from having accidents. Also, choose a location with an easy-to-clean floor, such as tile or linoleum, because accidental misses will happen.

      

 

Once your puppy is a bit older and can hold it for longer, you might be ready to transition him to doing his business outside. Consider taking some of the litter box liner to the outdoor toilet area. This will help him understand what is expected of him in this new location. The use of a potty cue, like “Hurry Up” or “Go Potty,” can also help you tell him what you would like. Alternatively, you can teach your puppy to have both an indoor and outdoor place for doing his business, which can be handy in bad weather. But to avoid confusion, teach one location and then the other, rather than expecting him to learn both places at the same time.

If you decide to keep your puppy’s toilet inside, please remember that getting him out and about in the world is an essential part of his socialization. It’s still important that he get the physical exercise and mental stimulation that walks and outdoor play provide. Indoor potty training can be very convenient, but shouldn’t keep your puppy from experiencing the wonders of the world at large.

Feb 14

Teaching Name Recognition For Dogs

How To Teach Your Dog Her Name

Teaching your dog to respond to his or her name is an essential part of establishing clear lines of communication between the two of you. Whether you have a new puppy or have just adopted an adult dog and would like to use a name of your choosing, you can begin at the same place in training and your dog can come to respond reliably to anything you would like to call her. Your goal in teaching name recognition is to have a dog who looks to you when she hears her name and waits for the next cue, or command, that you might give (for example, “Lucy, come!”) Here are some steps for teaching name recognition.

First, choose a name. Be creative and have fun – choosing a name is one of the perks of new dog ownership. Choosing a puppy or new rescued dog’s name can be a lot of fun, but here are a few simple guidelines that will make the name learning process a little bit easier. Choose a name that sounds happy and one that preferably has two syllables. This will make it easier for the dog to distinguish their name from a command that is usually one symbol, like “Sit!” or “Stay!” Also, choose a name that is easily spoken (by humans) and easily learned (by your dog). My new rescue dog is named Ziggy, and he learned it very quickly because it doesn’t sound like any other words or commands that I give him.

In the first weeks of your dog’s arrival, say her name in a clear, upbeat voice. As soon as she glances in your direction, for even a moment, praise with a short happy “Yes!” or “Good!” and toss her a treat. If your dog does not glance in your direction, try saying her name and crouching down at the same time. As soon as she glances in your direction, praise and treat. Practice this several times a day inside the house and in different rooms. When she is reliably looking at you in response to her name inside the house (perhaps 9 out of 10 times), practice outside in a fenced-in area or on leash. Over time, practice calling her name in more distracting and diverse situations (when visitors are over, in the presence of other dogs, while you are sitting down). Always praise happily as soon as she looks at you and extend your hand so that she knows you have a treat for her for this behavior over the first few months.

Once your dog reliably looks at you when you say her name, feel free to add the Come command (e.g., “Lucy, Come!”) In this case, she should look at you when she hears “Lucy!” and begin moving toward you as soon as she hears “Come!” Have a treat in your outstretched hand to prompt her in your direction, praise with “Good!” or “Yes!” as soon as she starts to move toward you and deliver the treat when she gets to you. After your dog is reliably looking to you in response to her name, you can begin to reduce your treat schedule of reinforcement. To do this, you should continue to praise each time she looks to you (or call her to you and praise as soon as she gets to you) but begin offering a treat only about 80% of the time. After a couple of weeks of daily practice and when she continues to reliably respond to her name, reduce the treat schedule to 60% of the time, then 40%, etc. Always provide other positive consequences when she responds to her name, even if you are no longer treating it each time. Provide a game, some petting or praise, or an invitation to a walk, for example, whenever you call your dog’s name thereafter.

Tip: Call your puppy or dog’s name just once during each exercise; if you repeat it over and over, she’ll eventually tune it out.

You should not call your dog’s name to yell at her or to do something she does not like. If you call her name and she looks at you, and then you reprimand her for getting into the garbage, for example, you are actually punishing her for looking at you when you say her name. This is the last behavior that occurs before your reprimand, and thus looking at you (instead of garbage stealing) gets punished. Similarly, you should not use her name when you say “No”. Although this comes very naturally for most owners, it is important to use “No” as a reprimand or a “Stop” command without pairing it with her name.

Remember that to maintain reliable attention to you when you call her, your dog’s name should always mean to her: “When I hear my parent call my name, I should look at her to see what wonderful thing she has in store for me!”

Jan 26

Tear Staining In Pets

Tear Staining in Pets

You’ve probably seen dark brown or reddish tear stains under a dog’s (or cat’s) eyes and wondered where they come from. Tear stains appear in certain breeds more often than others, and they can indicate a lot of different things. It’s important that you see a veterinarian or eye specialist if your dog is developing tear stains to determine the cause and possible treatments. Here’s what you should know about tear stains under your pet’s eyes.

Tear Staining: What Is It? What Causes It?

Tear staining is usually caused by epiphora, which is the technical word for excessive tear production. The tear stains themselves are reddish-brown streaks under a dog’s (or cat’s) eyes. The condition is much more prevalent in certain breeds (for example, the Maltese, the Lhasa Apso, and the Shih Tzu), and is much more obvious in animals with light-colored coats. While tear staining is typically no more than a minor annoyance, it can also be a symptom of a serious eye health problem.

Medical causes of tear staining can include:
  • Ingrown eyelashes – These are usually hereditary and appear more frequently in certain breeds.
  • Unusually large or small tear glands – Irregularities of your dog’s eyes can cause more tears to be present.
  • Glaucoma – An eye disease that causes fluid buildup in the eye and damages the optic nerve.
  • Conjunctivitis– An inflammation in the lining of the eye that can also result in mucous, pus, or discharge.
  • Brachycephalic syndrome – Shallow eye sockets- More common in brachycephalic dogs (dogs that have shorter snouts and flatter faces). The eyes bulge out and sometimes the eyelids don’t fully close, which results in irritation and damage. Some short-nosed breeds are: Shih Tzu, Pekingese, Maltese, and Pugs, and they are prone to developing eye problems.
  • Medications – Check with your vet to ensure that medications your pet is taking are safe and are not causing the tearing.
  • Poor quality diet – Some pet owners have discovered that feeding their pets a dry kibble with no preservative, fillers or additives will boost their resistance to inflammatory reactions and thus reduce tear staining.
  • Stress – Talk with your vet about the possibility of stress as the cause for overactive tearing.
  • Infection of the eye – Can be caused by bacteria, viruses, parasites, or irritants like smoke or shampoo.
  • Irritant exposure- Secondhand smoke, dust, and allergens can cause your dog’s eyes to produce more tears to flush them out.
  • Entropion (inverted eyelid) – Entropion is a condition where a portion of the eyelid is inverted, resulting in eyelashes rubbing against the eye. This can cause irritation, scratches, and damage to the eye.
  • Ear infection – An infection in one ear can sometimes cause the eye on the same side of the head to start tearing up more than usual.
  • Plastic food and water bowls – Plastic bowls can leech chemicals into the water and food that dogs react to.
  • Teething in puppies – In puppies, teething can be accompanied by excessive tears.
  • Allergies- These can cause your dog’s eyes to produce excessive tears as the body responds to what it perceives to be a threat. These can be seasonal, food related, or the result of using plastic food and water bowls.

If you have a dog or cat with tear staining, it is recommended that you talk about it with your veterinarian during your next appointment. It’s important to rule out medical causes before you assume that it’s just a simple matter of too much tear production.

Why Some Pets Have or Show More Tear Staining

Tear stains are typically the result of porphyrins. Porphyrins are naturally occurring molecules containing iron (waste products from the breakdown of red blood cells) and are mostly removed from the body in the usual way (in poop). However, in dogs and cats, porphyrin can also be excreted through tears, saliva, and urine.

When tears and saliva containing porphyrins sit on light-colored fur for any period of time, staining will occur. And if it seems your pet’s tear stains are worse after he’s been outside, you’re not imagining things. The iron-containing stains do, indeed, darken when exposed to sunlight.

If the stains are more of a brown color than rust colored, it’s likely your pet has developed a yeast infection on his face because the fur under his eyes is constantly wet with tears. Brown stains from a yeast infection are different from red staining caused by porphyrins. This can be important to know if you’re trying to resolve brown stains with a product intended for red stains, or vice versa. Yeast infections are also odiferous, so if your pet’s face smells, think yeast. Pets can also have both a porphyrin stained face and a secondary yeast infection from the constantly moist skin.

You may notice that pets with white or lightly colored fur have tear stains more often, but this is mostly because the tear stains are just more visible against those colors. Dogs or cats with dark fur can be just as likely to develop epiphora, and you should always examine your pet’s eyes closely for anything out of the ordinary.

Some dogs make more porphyrin than others, and therefore have more tear staining. It is assumed that genetics and innate bacterial levels are involved, because certain breeds and lineages can be more prone to staining.

Poodles and Cocker Spaniels, along with other breeds, are more genetically likely to have imperforate puncta, a condition where the holes near the eyes that drain tears do not properly develop. This causes tears to build up, and the stains are more likely to form.

How to Treat Tear Stains Safely

Treatment for epiphora is as varied as the causes, which is why you must see a veterinarian or eye specialist before you attempt to treat it yourself. Your vet will determine the cause and form a plan to treat the condition.

If the cause is an irritant, a simply eye flushing may be enough to reduce tear production. In cases of an eye or ear infection, you might be provided with medicated drops or antibiotics. For genetic conditions or issues with eyelashes or eyelids, surgery or electrolysis could be required. If the cause is allergies, you may need an antihistamine or a change in diet. When stress or poor diet are the causes, you’ll need to discuss some lifestyle changes with your veterinarian, which will probably include more exercise and switching to a grain-free diet and a non-plastic food bowl.

You can do control your pet’s tear staining by keeping his face meticulously clean and free of porphyrin-containing moisture. This means gently wiping his face at least twice a day with a soft, warm, damp cloth, keeping his face hair trimmed, and if necessary, making regular appointments with a groomer.

Other suggestions:

    • Feed a high-quality, balanced, species-appropriate diet. The less unnecessary, indigestible stuff your pet’s body has to deal with, the less stress on his organs of detoxification. Consult with your vet to form a balanced diet and work to reduce anxiety. A grain-free diet without filler will usually work best.
    • Provide your pet with fresh, filtered drinking water instead of tap water, which is often high in mineral content or iron and other impurities, including chlorine and fluoride, which are toxic to pets.
    • Replace plastic food and water bowls with stainless steel, porcelain, or glass. Worn plastic containers can harbor bacteria that may irritate your pet’s face.
    • Clean your pet’s face with colloidal silver, which is completely safe around the eyes. You can buy it at any health food store, in a spray or liquid dropper. Apply a little of the colloidal silver to a cotton ball and wipe your pet’s face. Colloidal silver has antimicrobial properties and will help reduce opportunistic yeast infections and moist dermatitis that can occur in the corners of your pet’s eyes.
    • Keep the fur around the eyes trimmed so that it doesn’t cause irritation. Clean the area affected by excess tears with a paper towel soaked in warm water. Use a dog-safe eyewash to remove irritants, and you may want to consider an Elizabethan collar (cone of shame) if your dog is pawing at his eyes to avoid further damage.
    • If your dog or cat is prone to excessive crusting or matting in the corners of her eyes, ask your groomer to shave the hair away so you can effectively clean the skin under the eyes. Using a dab of coconut oil on the moist “tracks” of skin where tear stains accumulate can also prevent the skin from becoming irritated and inflamed.
    • Ask your holistic veterinarian for suggestions on one or several of the all-natural tear stain removal products on the market.

Things I’ve seen suggested that are not recommend for use to treat tearstains include: Tums, topical apple cider vinegar (oral is fine), milk of magnesia, hydrogen peroxide, makeup remover, gold bond in any form (or any powder intended for humans), or corn syrup. Additionally, never use human eye drops on pets, except for basic eye saline solution with no additives.

Avoid certain products. Some tear stain removing products are not FDA approved and can potentially cause problems. This is why it’s so important to talk over tear stain removers with a vet. For example, avoid the following:  Angels’ Eyes, Angels’ Glow, Pets’ Spark, Groom, and Health Glow

The last word is that there isn’t just one foolproof preventative, and each pet responds a little differently. It often takes a little experimenting and patience in reducing or preventing tear staining in your furbaby, but it is worth the effort to have that precious little clean face smiling at you again.

 

Dec 18

11 Signs – When To Take Your Cat To The Veterinarian 

11 Signs – When To Take Your Cat To The Veterinarian

Sometimes it’s obvious when your cat needs medical attention. If, for example, a passing vehicle or stray dog causes trauma to your cat, you wouldn’t hesitate to rush her to the veterinarian. The same goes for a seizure, eye injury or severe allergic reaction.

Sometimes, however, the need for medical attention isn’t as apparent, but it may be just as important. If your cat just doesn’t seem to be herself, it could signal a more serious problem. Being tuned in to subtle changes in your cat’s body or behavior is crucial, as such knowledge could save your cat’s life.

Most veterinarians agree that cats should be examined a minimum of twice a year. In adult cats, six months is the equivalent of about two years in human years, and a lot can happen to a cat in six months.

There are scenarios, however, when a cat should be seen as soon as possible.

1. Unusual litterbox behavior / Straining in the litterbox (especially male cats) – Some cats will go into their litter box, posture themselves to eliminate, and then just sit there and strain. It can be difficult for some cat owners to tell if their cat is posturing to urinate or to defecate. If a cat is posturing to defecate and is straining and straining, it’s probably not an emergency, but it should be seen as soon as possible.  Straining can be uncomfortable for the cat, and the longer the constipation persists, the more difficult it can be to relieve the problem later.

Is straining to urinate an emergency? In a female cat, probably not. Straining to urinate can be a sign of a urinary tract infection, bladder stone, or bladder inflammation (cystitis).  This also can be very uncomfortable for the cat, but it’s not life threatening. In a male cat, however, it’s a different story. When a male cat is straining to urinate, he too can be afflicted with a urinary tract infection, a bladder stone, or just an inflamed bladder (cystitis). Male cats, however, can become OBSTRUCTED, and this is a life-threatening condition. This rarely happens in females. A male cat with an inflamed bladder may go in and out of the box, and every time he goes, he deposits just a drop or two of urine. The few drops of urine get absorbed into the cat litter, where it’s undetectable. A male cat with a urinary obstruction will go into the litter box and strain to urinate, and no urine is produced. It can be difficult or impossible for a cat owner to tell if the cat is completely obstructed and isn’t producing any urine at all, or if he’s got an inflamed bladder and is depositing little drops of urine onto the litter the moment they accumulate in his bladder. You need to err on the cautious side and TAKE HIM TO THE VET IMMEDIATELY. Failure to promptly relieve the obstruction can result in kidney damage, severe metabolic conditions, and ultimately death unless the obstruction is relieved.

2. Labored breathing – Congestion from an upper respiratory infection is a common problem in cats, and cats with stuffy noses and sinuses can sometimes have audible breathing noises, especially when sleeping. Put simply, they snore. This is not an emergency. Some cats with inflammation in their lungs, either from an infection, or from asthma, will cough. They will hunker down, extend their neck, and make a raspy sound. This, too, is not an emergency, but should be evaluated by a vet.

A cat with LABORED breathing, however, is a different situation. If your cat, at rest, seems to be showing increased respiratory effort, this needs to be addressed immediately. A cat’s breathing motion – the movement of the chest, should be barely noticeable. If you can easily see your cat inhaling and exhaling in an exaggerated fashion, as if she just ran around the block a few times, this is definitely not normal and is a cause for concern. Often, there will be a little abdominal press at the end of each breath. Again, this is not normal. She needs to be examined immediately.

Unlike dogs, cats should NEVER breathe with their mouth open. Open-mouth breathing means that you should take your cat to the vet NOW. If it’s after business hours, find the nearest 24-hour veterinary emergency clinic. The likely causes of this include pulmonary edema (fluid within the lung tissue) which is a common sign of heart failure, or pleural effusion (fluid between the lungs and the chest wall). This fluid prevents the lungs from fully expanding, and may need to be removed immediately. Removal of the fluid not only will give the cat some relief, but analysis of the fluid often helps in making the diagnosis.

3. Seizures – Whenever a cat seizures, you can basically break down the cause as either being neurologic, or being non-neurologic. Non-neurologic causes of seizures include things like liver disease (if the liver is sick and cannot detoxify the blood, the toxins in the blood can affect the brain and cause seizures), low blood calcium, and low blood sugar. Low blood sugar is much more likely to cause seizures in dogs. Cats with low blood sugar tend to act spacey and uncoordinated, as you might imagine what a cat would look like if it were drunk. But occasionally, low blood sugar can cause seizures in cats. Neurologic causes of seizures include things like brain tumors and epilepsy.

If your cat is a known diabetic and experiences a seizure, low blood sugar due to an overdose of insulin has to be considered, and you should rub some honey or corn syrup onto the gums (once the seizure subsides, to avoid getting accidentally bitten), and the cat should stop seizuring and come around to relatively normal behavior. The cat should then be taken to the veterinarian immediately. One single seizure, however, may not necessarily be an emergency. Some cats will have one seizure, will recover uneventfully, and never have another one. If a cat has one seizure, recovers fairly promptly, and seems okay, it may not need to go to the vet immediately, however, an appointment should be set up so that the cat can be examined and some bloodwork performed to rule out the non-neurologic causes. More than one seizure in a short period of time, or persistent seizures, however, needs to be addressed IMMEDIATELY.

4. Persistent vomiting – Every cat vomits occasionally. Most of the time there is a harmless explanation for it, such as a sudden change in diet, eating too fast, or hairballs. In some instances, however, vomiting can be a serious sign of illness. When cats vomit, the cause is either a problem in the gastrointestinal system or a problem elsewhere in the body. For example, cats can vomit from a gastrointestinal disorder such as food allergy or inflammatory bowel disease. They can also vomit from systemic disorders that have nothing to do with the gastrointestinal system, such as kidney disease; if the kidneys can’t remove toxins from the bloodstream the toxins accumulate, leading to nausea and vomiting. Because vomiting has so many potential causes, diagnosing the reason for the vomiting can be challenging. An acute bout of vomiting in a cat that seems otherwise normal is seldom a cause for concern, and can be treated symptomatically at home by withholding food for a few hours and then gradually re-introducing the diet. Cats that have vomited multiple times in one day or several days in a row may need to be examined by your veterinarian.

Kittens and young cats are not very discreet about what they put in their mouths. Middle aged and mature cats who should know better will also occasionally eat things they shouldn’t. Ingestion of a foreign body can cause an obstruction that prevents food from passing. Cats will vomit food persistently, and may even vomit water. Cats can get seriously dehydrated as a result, and the longer the foreign body remains lodged in the intestinal tract, the more potential damage to the gastrointestinal tract can occur. Regardless of the cause, persistent vomiting can cause dehydration and dangerous electrolyte imbalances and should be addressed promptly.

5. Bleeding – Every now and then, a cat owner will notice some blood in their cat’s urine, in their stool, or will discover little spots of blood on the furniture or the bedspread, indicating that their kitty might be ill. This kind of bleeding is not an emergency; however, it should be investigated by your vet as soon as possible. Blood in the urine can be a sign of a painful bladder stone. Significant bleeding from a visible wound, especially if the blood is pulsating from any part of the body, warrants IMMEDIATE veterinary attention. Cats can get dangerously anemic from blood loss and can go into shock.

6. Staggering or stumbling – There are many possible reasons for a cat to stagger or stumble. Weakness from anemia, or from a metabolic problem (excessively low potassium, too low blood sugar), a neuromuscular problem, or a vestibular problem (infection or inflammation involving the vestibular system, which is the part of the nervous system that controls balance). There are many other possible causes of staggering or stumbling.  Some of the causes are relatively benign, but some can be very serious. There’s no way for a cat owner to know. You must err on the cautious side and take the cat to the vet IMMEDIATELY.

7. Non-weight-bearing lameness – Every now and then, cats will pull a muscle or sprain a joint. Usually, this manifests as a mild limp. In an older cat, arthritis can be a common cause for stiffness and occasional limping. If you see your cat limping, ideally, the cat should be evaluated by your vet reasonably promptly. However, waiting for a day or two and observing to see whether it is getting progressively better is acceptable. If the limp persists after another day or two, obviously the cat should be seen. Non-weight bearing lameness, however, should not wait. A cat that cannot bear weight on a limb and is walking on three legs should not be observed for a few days to see if it improves. Non-weight bearing lameness is often a sign of a fracture, dislocation, or torn ligament. These are painful injuries that need to be addressed right away. With fractures, the sooner they are repaired, the better the chance that proper healing and restoration of normal function will occur.

8. Excessive vocalization – Some cats are more talkative than others. The Siamese cat, for example, is not a shrinking violet,  especially when it comes to unleashing meow after meow. If your cat isn’t normally much of a talker, excessive vocalizations could signal pain or a medical problem. Get to the root of the issue by making sure all of her needs are met, especially those for food and attention. If your cat is female and not spayed, she may be going through a fertile heat cycle and calling for male companionship.

If your cat has been fed, petted, and entertained yet continues to meow loudly and often, give her a visual examination. If there are no signs of apparent trauma, use your hands to feel along her back, legs and tail, and then gently cup her face. Even if you don’t see a wound or feel swelling, consult the veterinarian for a thorough medical exam.

9. Runny nose, coughing and sneezing – If your cat has a runny nose, frequently sneezes or coughs or has crust-rimmed eyes, it could be a cold — or something much more serious. Make sure your cat receives routine immunizations because they help prevent feline viruses. However, this protection isn’t infallible, and your cat could still contract feline herpes or feline calicivirus. The symptoms of both of these mimic the common cold.

Closely monitor your cat when she isn’t feeling well. Use a warm, damp cloth to clear mucous from her eyes or nose (be sure to wash your hands afterward). If your cat’s symptoms last longer than the duration of a normal cold (7 to 10 days), if the symptoms begin to worsen or if new symptoms appear, take your cat to the veterinarian for a complete medical exam.

Ringworm is a fungal infection in cats

10. Excessive loss of fur – Cats are fastidious groomers and some fur loss is normal, but if your cat grooms to excess or begins to lose fur in patches, it’s time to see the veterinarian. Loss of fur in circular patches that reveal scaly skin could be a symptom of ringworm, a fungal skin infection that can be passed to humans but is easily treated with antifungal cream. If your cat has been exposed to fleas, the fur loss could be an allergic reaction.  After an application of flea-preventative medication, your cat should stop scratching and the hair should grow back. Sometimes hair loss signals an internal problem, such as thyroid disease or Cushing’s Disease, so if you don’t see an obvious external cause for your cat’s hair loss, consult your veterinarian.

Whatever the cause of fur loss, your cat may end up swallowing the extra hair during grooming. This hair normally passes through the digestive system, or makes a return appearance as a hairball. But if your cat swallows too much hair, it could cause an intestinal obstruction, which is a painful and potentially fatal condition. Its primary symptom is vomiting.  Any cat may be sick occasionally, but call your vet if your cat can’t seem to keep food down.

11. Any symptom that persists for 48 hours or longer, or gets noticeably worse quickly – I guess this is a catch-all selection, but it holds true. It’s alright for a cat to cough a few times during the day, with the owner observing to see if it’s a brief episode that disappears as quickly as it came on. If, however, the cat coughs all day, and the next day it does the same, then the cat needs to be examined right away. Two or three episodes of vomiting in one day may require careful observation by the owner. If the next day, the cat is eating and the vomiting has stopped, or the cat has only vomited once, it’s okay to watch for one more day and see if the vomiting has resolved. But if the cat vomits a few times on day 1, and on day 2 the vomiting persists or gets worse, the cat should be seen. The same goes for diarrhea, poor appetite, sneezing, limping, runny eyes, runny nose… any symptom that persists for a second day, or dramatically gets worse later that day or the next day, should be evaluated by a veterinarian promptly, i.e. the next available appointment at the vet’s office.

Hopefully this list will help pet owners realize that while cats seem pretty self-sufficient (indeed, many of their issues seem to resolve on their own without much intervention on our part), there are some issues that require more than just mild observation.  It’s important to keep an observant eye on your kitty so that she’ll have many happy and healthy years with you.

 

Dec 12

Keeping Your Pets Calm During The Holidays

Keeping Your Pets Calm During The Holidays

The holidays are a wonderful time of year filled with delicious food, beautiful decorations, and quality time with our loved ones. Holidays are also often filled with additional stress as we prepare our house for company, shop for gifts and cook up a storm. Stress isn’t just relegated to us humans; our pets also feel the strain around this time of year. The influx of strangers and deviations from their normal routine can cause our furry friends to suffer from holiday anxiety and can lead to behavioral issues during the holidays.

While there are many ways our furry friends express their anxiety, below are the most common behaviors to be on the lookout for:

  • Aggression
  • Pacing
  • Cowering
  • Vomiting
  • Lack of appetite
  • Diarrhea
  • Excessive barking
  • Changes in disposition
  • Clinginess
  • Attempts to escape

Typically, pets with little training or socialization encounter the most holiday anxiety.

There are many ways you can help reduce the holiday anxiety of your furry friend. If your home is host to an array of holiday parties, be sure to start small so your pet can get used to the idea of additional people in their home.

Remember that calming pets is not a “one size fits all” issue. Some animals will react very favorably to certain remedies, while others will react poorly. Patience will be your strongest weapon as pets adjust to, and learn to trust, their new environment. Never give up on your furry companion because problems can certainly be  resolved with some patience, ingenuity, and hard work.

Socialize

The most valuable thing you can do is socialize your pets to other people, places, and things. This will result in a balanced dog and cat. Be sure your vaccinations are up to date before taking your pets out, but always try to expose them to new things. A socialized dog is a balanced dog, and the same is said for cats.

Create A Safe, Quiet Zone For Your Pet

Create a safe zone within your home where your furry companion can relax with his favorite toys away from the commotion – do not allow anyone access to his area.  Keeping pets in a quiet room is also beneficial because you are then making sure no one accidentally lets them escape during a party.  Remember to either tell your guests that your pet should be left alone, tape a sign to the door saying “do not open,” or place a hook and eye lock on the door so that people know that it is not to be opened. The last thing you want is for a very excited pet to dash through the house, and possibly out the door to the outside of the house.  Whatever you do, the safety of your pets and guests should be a top concern.

Another great way to reduce your pet’s stress is by increasing their activity levels.  Add an extra five minutes to your daily walk, make extra trips to the local dog park, or play an extra game of fetch.  Always be sure that your pet has extra water, as increased stress and anxiety can also increase your pet’s thirst.

When bad behavior from anxiety does arise, it’s important to stay calm. Our furry babies respond to our emotions, so if you’re feeling overwhelmed, anxious, or angry….. your pet will sense it and act out.

Pheromones

The great thing about pheromone-based science is that it works on a level we rarely detect. Placing a diffuser in your home is a great way to calm pets .  Try Feliway Plug-In Diffuser for cats or Adaptil, D.A.P (Dog Appeasing Pheromone) for dogs. They are odor free, so you don’t have to worry about strange smells.

Bach Rescue Remedy also makes a stress relief supplement for pets, and it is made with all natural ingredients.

Do’s and Don’ts – Holiday Pet Costumes

 

 

 

 

 

 

We love taking pics of our pets dressed in holiday outfits. But, that’s as far as it should go. Some pets don’t mind wearing a jacket or hat, but it can be very stressful to those who are not accustomed to it year-round. Take your photos, then take the costume off. It’s a bad idea to present new stimuli (costumes) to pets who already have new stimuli (trees, decorations, holiday visitors) piling up around them.

Traveling With Your Pet

Leaving the familiarity of home can provoke anxiety in people and animals. If you are traveling by car for the holidays, be sure to bring along some of your pet’s favorite toys, a blanket or pillow bed, and his regular food. If your pet is used to sleeping in a crate, bring it along so he can sleep in his familiar space.

It is advised that you keep pets in a travel safe crate so that they are not able to move freely in the car. This covers a few bases. Keeping pets in travel crates prevents them from getting underfoot or on your lap while you are driving (an obvious hazard),  it prevents them from being thrown from the car should an accident occur, and it prevents them from getting free/running away during rest stops or after minor accidents have occurred. Unfortunately, these unhappy events do occur and are reported in the news frequently enough to make them worth noting. If you cannot fit a crate into your car, you can use a pet approved safety belt/harness to keep your pet in his seat, where he belongs.

On that note, make sure your pet is wearing identification at all times, and pack an emergency first aid kit for pets in case of an emergency. And don’t forget to take frequent breaks to allow for rest and relief.

Keep to a Routine

One of the best things you can do throughout it all is to stay to a familiar schedule. This means taking walks at the same time that you always do, and feeding at the same time as usual. It might help to create an alarm system on your mobile phone to remind you of your pet’s daily routine. Also, don’t forget to take time to play and show affection, so that your pet does not feel thrown off-balance by all of the activity and distractions.

Wishing you and your furry buddies a very Happy Holiday Season!