Mar 14

Understanding Your Cat’s Body Language

Cat Body Language

Cats use a variety of postures to convey their feelings

Cats definitely have a special language all their own, and it is often difficult to understand what they are feeling or thinking.  Understanding your cat’s body language can help in many ways to ensure your health as well as your cat’s health and safety by responding accordingly to her behavior.

If you are a potential cat owner or already have a cat, you should know that cat bites are potentially very dangerous as they create small, deep wounds or punctures that are difficult to clean.  The risk of infection with a certain type of bacteria (P multocida) is estimated to be 10 times higher after a cat bite than a dog bite.   Knowing when your cat is stressed or agitated by looking for certain signals can help in understanding what she’s trying to tell you in order to prevent fear and aggression, which lead to biting.

CatSpeak

Meow – This is an all-purpose word in cat language.  It might be a greeting, a command (hey, more food, please!) , an objection (no, I don’t want you to pick me up right now!), or an announcement (Look what I brought you…a mouse!).

Purring –  Of course, we all know that this is a sound of contentment.  Sometimes cats may purr if they’re not feeling well or anxious, as a kind of self-comforting mechanism.

Growling, hissing, spitting – This indicates that a cat is angry, aggressive, or frightened.  Leave this kitty alone.

Yowling or howling – This tells you that your cat is in some kind of distress.  She could be looking for you, stuck in a closet, or in pain. Elderly cats sometimes make these noises as a part of suffering from a cognitive disorder (dementia), and they howl because they are disoriented.

Chattering or chittering –  There are several theories regarding the chattering or chirping sounds that cats sometimes make.   They usually do this when looking out of the window while watching birds and squirrels.  Some believe that it is connected to the frustration she feels from not being able to get to the prey, and others say that it is how she controls her over-the-top excitement at spotting the bird. .

Tail

Tail up and fur flat – Happy,alert, inquisitive

Tail up, fur standing on end (bottle brush tail) – This is a classic Halloween pose, and it indicates that the cat is feeling threatened or angry.  When this is combined with an ears back, upright hair along the spine, arched back pose, it is time to move away from her. She is feeling aggressive, frightened, or angry.

Tail held low or tucked between legs – Insecure or anxious

Thrashing back and forth – This is a good indicator that the cat is agitated and should be left alone.  The faster the tail, the angrier the cat.

Tail moving very slowly back and forth – Your cat is relaxed and happy.

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Ears

Ears forward – Content, interested, and playful

Backward (Flat) – Angry or frightened

Swiveling – Attentive to sounds around her

Eyes

Dilated pupils – Scared, surprised, or stimulated

Constricted pupils – Tense or aggressive

Stare – It’s possibly a challenge from your cat!

Slow blinking and half-closed – Relaxed, comfortable, trusting

 

This cat is marking his territory by rubbing the little boy.

Rubbing

Your cat rubs against you because she is marking her territory.  Cats will also rub against their toys, furniture, the door, anything in sight. She’s telling everyone that these things (and you) are hers.

Kneading

Some people call this action “making biscuits”, and it looks as though the cat is kneading dough with her paws while moving them up and down on a soft, pliable surface (usually a lap while you’re petting them).  Cats start to knead as kittens, while nursing from their mother. Adult cats associate the kneading motion with the rewarding comfort of nursing. This holdover from kittenhood usually occurs when you are petting her in your lap.  She is returning the affection and is telling you that she loves you right back.

happy pets blog cat body language flehmen response

Flehman Response – Cat’s body language

The Flehman Response – Some cats,, while sniffing something, may lift their head, open their mouth slightly, curl back their lips and squint their eyes. They will hold that pose for several seconds, and it looks almost like a sneer or a ‘stinky face’.  Cats have an extra olfactory organ in the roof of their mouth behind the front teeth, connected to their nasal cavity, which is called the Jacobson Organ. This action intensifies the odor of interest and sends signals of information to the cat’s brain.

 

 

Now that you have a little more information about how to understand your cat’s body language and her actions, you are one step closer to trying to decipher her moods and needs.

Mar 07

Microchipping Your Dog or Cat

Having Your Pet Microchipped

Microchipping is effective in finding lost pets

The sad fact is that millions of dogs and cats are lost or stolen every year, and one in three pets will become lost at some time in their life.  Without proper identification, many of these pets will never return home.  One of the ways you can increase the chances of finding your pet, should he become lost or stolen, is to have him microchipped.

A study published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association confirmed the high rate of return of microchipped dogs and cats to their families and stressed the importance of microchip data registration.   Microchipping substantially increases the likelihood of a pet being returned home, as it offers secure, reliable, unique, and permanent identification.

What Is A Microchip?

A microchip is a small electronic chip in a glass cylinder and is about the size of a grain of rice. It does not have a battery and is activated by a scanner that is passed over the area of the chip.  The radiowaves put out by the scanner activate the chip, and the scanner reads the identification number assigned to the chip.  The unique, one-of-a-kind ID number shows on the scanner screen.

The microchip is NOT a GPS device and it does not track your pet.

Facts

The microchip is permanent and will last the life of your pet.  It cannot get lost.

The implantation process is quick and relatively painless.  It is very similar to a routine vaccination and is done with a hypodermic needle with a slightly larger needle.  The average cost is usually $45-50 and any veterinarian should be able to do the procedure.

Each microchip number is unique to your pet.

The databases for microchipping are national, so reunion is possible for your microchipped pet even it he has crossed state lines.

Both dogs and cats should be microchipped.

You should not be concerned about your privacy when registering the microchip information into the database.  The only information about you is what you choose to provide, and there are protections in place for your privacy and security.

A microchip does NOT take the place of a collar with rabies and identification tags.  If a pet is wearing a collar with id and rabies tags, that is usually the quickest way to locate the owner and have the pet returned.  However, if the pet is not wearing the collar or if it is lost or removed, the microchip may be the only way the pet’s owner can be found.

 

When You Have Adopted a Pet

If you have adopted a pet from a shelter, ask them if they have scanned the pet for a microchip.  Many shelters do the implantation into every animal they adopt out, so ask them if they have already implanted a microchip.  Be sure to get the identification number so that you can register it in the recovery database in your name.

You can also have your veterinarian scan your pet for a microchip on his check-up.  If he cannot locate a chip, he will be able to implant one into your pet during a regular visit or check-up

If You Got Your Pet from a Breeder

Many breeders microchip their pups before sending them to new homes.  In this case, check with them and if they have microchipped the pup, you will have to register the information when you bring your pup home.

Registering Your Pet’s Microchip

If you have your pet microchipped by your veterinarian, ask the staff for information on what database and process they recommend.  Sometimes the cost of their procedure includes the cost of database registration.  If you are registering for a pet that has already been microchipped before he came home to your family, you can register him online on several databases for a small fee.   Homeagain.com and Avidid.com are two major national pet recovery database companies that are very effective.  Again, ask your veterinarian’s office what they suggest.  For a more effective record, upload a current photo of your pet into the database registration form if they have that option.

If Your Pet Is Lost

Contact the recovery database registration company immediately if your pet is lost and provide the pet’s ID number.  Most recovery database companies have a hot line that you can call with your information, but you can also log in online and provide the missing pet report.  They will guide you through their process.  It is a very good idea to upload a photo of your pet along with your other registration info so that they will have it ready for backup id purpose.

**Important**   If your pet returns home on his own,  don’t forget to call or notify the recovery database company back to advise them.

Maintenance

In order to maintain your pet’s microchip, just remember three things:

1. Ensure that the microchip is registered

2. Have your veterinarian scan your pet’s chip at least once a year to make sure that it’s still functioning

3. Keep your registration information up to date.  Remember, if you move or if any of your information changes (phone      number, etc.), you must be sure to update your microchip registration info in the manufacturer’s database as soon as possible.

Although there have been some reports of infections, swelling, or tumors that may have been related to implanting microchips, the benefits of microchipping definitely outweigh the risks.  You might want to designate a specific day every year as a reminder to check and update the microchip registration info for your pets.  The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) and the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) have both established August 15 as “Check the Chip Day”.  Be sure to keep your information current so that you can rest easy in knowing that you have improved your chances of getting your pet back home if he is lost or stolen.

happy pets blog microchip cat and dog

Feb 29

Crate Training Your Dog

Training Your Dog To Use A Crate

happy pets blog dog in crate

Crate training your dog

There are many advantages to crate training your puppy or adult dog.  Most important is that it uses a dog’s natural instinct as a den animal.  A wolf or a wild dog’s den is his home, place to sleep, hide from danger, and where they raise a family.  The crate becomes your dog’s den when he is introduced to it correctly.

In addition to being an effective housebreaking tool, the crate can also reduce separation anxiety and keep him from dangerous or destructive behavior if he is running loose in the house.  A dog or puppy will use his crate as a little cave, or den, to feel safe and secure.  It will serve as a refuge for him from scary thunderstorms and is a safe way to transport him when traveling.

 

A crate should never be used for punishment, because he may come to fear it and refuse to enter it.  Also, your dog should never be in his crate for too long a period.  If a dog is crated for long periods, he can become depressed or anxious without exercise or human interaction. The best advice here is to take your dog for a good, long walk or an extended play time before he goes into his crate.  Puppies under six months of age should not be in the crate any more than three or four hours at a time, because they cannot hold their bladders for that length of time.  The same would apply to an older dog who is being housetrained.

Crate your dog with the door shut until he can be trusted not to destroy your house.  After that, it should be a place where he will go to voluntarily.

Types of crates vary, such as plastic (flight kennels), fabric on a collapsible rigid frame, and collapsible metal pens, and they are available at pet supply stores, pet supply catalogs, or online.

The crate should be large enough for him to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably.  If your puppy is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his estimated adult size.

Two important things to remember about crate training

1 .The crate should always be associated with something pleasant. Using small treats, praise, and a positive attitude are all important in beginning the crate training process.

2. The training should be done in small steps. Crate training may take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament, and his history. It is very important to remain calm and patient during the process.

Placement and “Furnishings”

happy pets blog what-to-put-in-a-dog-crate

Treat the crate as if it is your dog’s furniture, and place it in a part of your house that he frequents and where you and the family spend a lot of time. Place a soft blanket or a dog bed in the crate, along with his favorite toys.  Some people put a worn shirt or piece of their clothing inside the crate so that the dog will sense a familiar scent.

 

 

 

 

Introducing  your dog to the crate

Keeping the door open during the first part of the process, place some of his favorite treats just inside the door of the crate.  Place the treats further and further toward the back of the crate so that he will learn to go all the way in and then praise him when he comes back out to you.  Use this to eventually get him to go willingly into the crate and then come back out, all the while praising him when he enters and also when he exits.  Be patient, as this part of the process may take days.  Please watch the video below to see how wonderfully this works!

Cesar Milan recommends feeding your pup in the crate as soon as he is willing to enter because this will help in teaching him to stay inside for extended lengths of time. Try placing his bowl in the back of the crate, and if he won’t go all the way back to eat start with the bowl closer to the front and eventually move it to the back with successive meals.  This is when he advises that the door can be shut during the pup’s meal.  When he is finished, open the door immediately the first time and then leave it shut a few minutes longer with each meal.

Extending the crate time

When your dog is in his crate without signs of stress, it’s time to lengthen his stay.  Put a favorite toy or treat in the crate, encourage him to enter, and then close the door.  Stay nearby for a while, then go into a different room for a few minutes so that he gets used to being alone in his crate.  When you return, sit nearby and do not open the door immediately.  Keep increasing the time of this process until your pup is able to stay in his crate for a half hour without your presence nearby.  When he’s able to do this you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house.  Remember not to make your departures emotional or prolonged, but praise him for entering his crate and then leave quietly.  Keep your arrivals quiet and low-key to avoid his anxiety over your return.  Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so that he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.

Crating your dog at night

If you want to crate your dog at night, use the same process with a treat and a command that you have created for him to associate with the crate.  You may need to move the crate into your bedroom or nearby if you have a pup who will need to go outside and eliminate during the night.  You’ll want to be able to hear him when he whines or barks to be let outside.   Older dogs who are crated at night should initially be kept nearby so that they don’t associate crating with social isolation.

Leaving and returning

The key is to keep the crating process completely normal and avoid excitement, both when you are leaving and on your return.  Encourage your pup to go into his crate and briefly praise him when he does.  When you come home and let him out of his crate, stay low-key and ignore any excited behavior that he may show.

Important Info

    • Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate frequently
    • Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time (6 hours maximum)
    • NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment. This will cause fear and resentment of the crate.
    • Do not allow children to pet or handle your pup in his crate. This is his private sanctuary and it should be respected.
    • Be sure that your pup has had some good exercise and has fully eliminated before going into his crate. This will avoid accidents in the crate.
    • Cold water should always be available to your dog in his crate if he will be in there for more than two hours. A hamster-type water dispenser with cold water can be attached to the crate bars.
    • Very Important!  Always remove your pup’s collar before putting him in his crate. Even flat buckle collars can get caught on the wire mesh or bars of the crate.  Use a safety, or break away collar if you must use a collar on your dog.  These are made by KeepSafe and PetSafe and are available on Amazon.com and Chewy.com.

  • You may find that once your dog grows up, he will still prefer his crate for resting or “hanging out”, and some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer used for the purpose of training.  In these cases, some dog owners have placed the crate in a place in their home where it is unobtrusive and is a part of the decor.
happy pets blog dog in crate 2

A crate can become your dog’s comfy den

Good luck in training your pup to use and love his crate!

 

 

 

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If you are looking for training videos – Dove Cresswell’s Dog Training Online is a unique program that uses a different way to train your dog. Dove’s lessons are consistent in using a positive, fun, easy approach, and it’s 100% guaranteed!  Please check it out! 

Feb 22

Spay / Neuter Your Pet

Benefits of Spaying or Neutering Your Pet

happy pets blog spay and neuter 1

The decision to spay or neuter your pet is an important one for all pet owners. It can be the single best decision you make for your pet’s long-term health and welfare.  Getting your pet spayed or neutered can reduce the number of homeless pets killed, improve your pet’s health, reduce unruly behavior, and save on the cost of pet care.

Spaying a female (removal of the ovaries and uterus) or neutering a male (removal of testicles) are procedures done under general anesthesia, and both surgeries usually require minimal hospitalization.

 

  Myths Debunked

Getting your pets spayed/neutered will not change their fundamental personality, as in their protective instinct.

Having a male dog or cat neutered will not make him feel like “less of a male”.  Neutering will not change a pet’s basic personality, and he doesn’t suffer any kind of emotional reaction or identity crisis when neutered.

Pets do not get fat and lazy after being spayed or neutered.  The truth is that most pets get fat and lazy because their owners feed them too much and don’t give them enough exercise.

It is not expensive to have your pet spayed or neutered.  Many low-cost options exist for spay/neuter services.  Many states have at least one spay/neuter clinic within driving distance that offer reasonable rates for the procedure. The cost of your pet’s spay or neuter surgery is far less than the cost of having and caring for a litter. Please see the widget at the end of this article to locate a low-cost spay/neuter program in your area.

**One of the many advantages of adopting a shelter or rescue dog or cat is that the spay or neuter procedures are already done and the cost of those procedures is included in your adoption fee. Please visit your local shelter or rescue organization to check out all of the wonderful animals that are waiting for their forever homes!

Medical Benefits

Spaying female pets helps prevent uterine infections and there is a reduced risk of certain types of cancers. Unspayed female cats and dogs have a far greater chance of developing pyrometra (a fatal uterine infection), uterine cancer, and other cancers of the reproductive system. Spaying your pet before her first heat offers the best protection from these diseases.

Neutering a male pet prevents testicular cancer and it reduces the risk of enlarged prostate, prostate cysts and prostate infections. Enlarged prostate occurs in more than 80 percent of unneutered male dogs over the age of five. .

Behavioral Benefits

Spayed female pets will not go into heat and will not attract unneutered males.  Neutered males will not mark territory as much and are not as likely to roam away from home.  Other behavioral problems that may be lessened are aggression, barking, mounting, and other dominance-related behavior.

It’s the Right Thing To Do

By spaying or neutering your pet, you are helping to control the pet homelessness crisis which results in millions  of healthy cats and dogs being euthanized in shelters annually, simply because there aren’t enough homes for all of them.  Spaying and neutering are the only permanent, 100 percent effective methods of birth control for pets.

When To Spay Or Neuter

Puppies and kittens as young as eight weeks old can be spayed or neutered as long as they are healthy. Medical evidence indicates that females spayed before their first heat are typically healthier.

Many animal shelters perform sterilization procedures on puppies and kittens prior to adoption

It is possible to spay or neuter an adult pet, but there may be a longer recovery time or more of a chance of post-operative complications.

Before And After The Procedure
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Spay And Neuter For Healthy Pets

 

Your veterinary clinic will give you pre and post-op procedure instructions that you should follow carefully.  The general rules for successful recoveries are to keep your pet from running and jumping for a period of time and preventing him or her from licking the incision site.  Daily checking of the incision site daily to confirm proper healing is very important.

With common sense and your loving care, your pet will recover quickly from the spay or neuter procedure.

 

 

 

 

 Spaying And Neutering Are Good For Rabbits, Too!
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Spay/Neuter Rabbits, Too!

Rabbits reproduce faster than dogs or cats and frequently end up in shelters, where they are often euthanized. Neutering male rabbits can reduce hormone-driven behavior such as lunging, mounting, spraying, and boxing. And just as with dogs and cats, spayed female rabbits are less likely to get ovarian, mammary, and uterine cancers, which can be prevalent in mature females.

 

 

 

Feb 15

Miracle Molly – True Heartwarming Story Of Survival

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Miracle Molly recovering from surgery and visited by her rescuer, Officer McMullen

Molly the Miracle Dog – True Heartwarming Story Of Survival

On January 20, 2016, Amtrak police officers were called to an accident scene where a dog was hit by a fast moving train in Baltimore, MD.  The train conductor saw the dog run into the tunnel ahead, and to his horror, he knew he could not stop the train in time. Train workers stopped all moving trains, and Officer Kevin McMullen found the dog inside the tunnel.  No one thought the animal could have survived, but to their surprise,a small female mixed-breed dog was clinging to life.  Her hind left leg had been cut completely off almost all the way up to her hip, she lost the end of her mangled tail, had very large lacerations on her face and side, and she had a severed artery, bleeding profusely.  As soon as Officer McMullen picked her up and removed her from the tracks, she began licking his face, which was the first indication of her sweet, loving, and grateful disposition.

Now known as Molly, she was quickly taken to BARCS (Baltimore Animal Rescue & Care Shelters, Inc).  The staff immediately set up Molly for surgery the next morning. The medical procedure was risky and there was a significant risk the she would not survive on the operating table. The miracle dog underwent surgery, and the remainder of her hind leg had to be amputated. The lacerations on her body were cleaned and closed up, her mangled tail was fixed, and the exposed artery from which she lost more than half her body’s blood was repaired.

Since then, Miracle Molly, who is estimated to be between 1 and 2 years old, has been fostered and cared for by a BARCS staff member who cares for animals on the mend.  Molly, first thought to be a brown dog when rescued because she was dirty and bloody, was found to be a beautiful little white dog with a pink, freckled nose.  Molly’s foster mom is amazed how resilient the little girl is, and she says that her favorite thing in the world is to be held like a baby while covering her holder with kisses.

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Sweet, beautiful Miracle Molly

Officer McMullen, who rescued her from the train tracks, has been to visit Molly often to check on her, and they have created a wonderful bond. BARCS said that they have had hundreds of inquiries across the country about Molly, and about possibly adopting her. Officer McMullen is more than open to the possibility of becoming Molly’s dad, and when she’s ready BARCS will ensure that she goes to the right forever home.

*Update!  As of February 11, BARCS stated that they were hoping to make it official within a week that Officer McMullen would be approved for the adoption of Molly  I’m wishing for many, many years of happiness for both of them together. What a happy ending that will be for Molly’s sad, painful story!

Happy pets blog Miracle-Molly

Molly and Officer McMullen

**2/14 Update!! It’s official!  Molly is now a member of the McMullen family!  Her new mommy and daddy are so happy and said that this is the best Valentine’s Day present they could ever imagine!   Wonderful news!!!!!

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For more information about BARCS, tap here.

To see Molly’s Facebook page, click here.

Feb 08

How to Puppy Proof Your Home

Puppy Proofing Your House and Yard

Puppy proofing your home

Puppy proofing your home

Puppies are full of energy and always seem to be able to get into every and anything. So it’s important to keep your house puppy-proof in order to keep them safe. Get your house ready for your new member of the family

Remember – Puppies love to chew!  Always provide a safe chewing toy for your puppy so that it will help him to learn to play with safe, healthy toys. Chewing toys will also keep their teeth clean, keep their curious minds occupied, and provide chewing exercise which will tire them out.

Indoors      happy pets blog puppy digging in flower pot

Electrical cords – Keep cords out of reach if possible, or purchase cord wraps or protectors.  A good idea is to coat them with Bitter Apple Spray. Grannicks Bitter Apple Original Dog Spray is reviewed to be very effective and is available on Petsmart.com  or Chewy.com.  It is very important to keep your puppy away from all electrical cords for obvious reasons.

Medications, poisons, and household cleaners – Keep all medications and household cleaners in a safe area, away from your puppy.  Avoid using automatic toilet bowl cleaners if you can’t keep your big puppy from drinking out of the toilet.  It’s best to avoid that bad habit from forming, if possible!

Indoor plants  –  Some of the common indoor plants toxic to dogs are philodendron, dieffenbachia, aloe, and snake plant.

Windows, doors, and stairs – Keep windows and doors securely closed and ensure that window screens are secure.   Use a pet gate to block off any stairs that may pose a hazard to a young puppy.

Small items and breakables – Keep valuable items that can easily be broken by a playful puppy out of their reach. Jewelry, small items, and coins can be easily swallowed by curious puppies, so keep them out of reach, as well.  Also, keep socks, nylons, underwear, and other clothing put away.  Any of these can be chewed and swallowed by a curious pup.

Fire and heat sources – Screen off fireplaces and wood stoves, and never leave your puppy unattended in a room with any type of open flame or space heater.

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Outdoors

Dangerous areas – Walk around your yard and look for areas or items that could be hazardous to your puppy.  Sharp objects, broken glass, exposed nails, and small items that he may chew or eat should be removed.

Plants and shrubs – Some plants are toxic to dogs, and common ones include morning glory, foxglove, lily of the valley, boxwood shrubs, bulb plants like daffodil and tulips, peony, mums, and vinca.  Remove these plants or do not plant them where your puppy can reach them.

Poisons or toxins – Be sure that all gasoline, oil, paints, lawn fertilizers, insecticides, and auto supplies (antifreeze) are in secure containers and placed out of reach.  Any of these could be deadly if ingested by a puppy.

Garbage and compost piles – Ensure that garbage is kept in a securely closed container, and keep compost n a secure bin and out of the puppy’s reach.

Gardens – Fence off your garden if you are using fertilizers and insecticides, or if you are growing plants that are toxic to the puppy.  Some toxic plants are corn plant, onion, parsley, rhubarb, sweet potato, apples, peaches, plums, and cherries.

Mulches and ornamental rocks – Cocoa bean mulch is toxic to dogs!!  The same substances found in chocolate,  which are theobromine and caffeine, are found in cocoa bean mulch. Dogs that swallow too much can have vomiting, diarrhea, fast heart rate, and seizures.  Puppies may chew and swallow ornamental stone which can cause intestinal blockage.

Open water – Pools, ponds, and hot tubs should be fenced off or securely covered.

Prevent escapes – Provide secure fencing or a sturdy kennel to prevent your puppy from escaping.  Ensure that he cannot jump over it or dig under it.

Outdoor fire sources – Never leave a puppy unattended outdoors if you are using a fire ring, barbeque grill, or other fire source.

By using common sense and remembering these tips, you will be sure to enjoy your puppy, and you will ensure that he has a safe and happy life with you and your family.

happy pets blog puppy with ball

Keeping your puppy safe at home

Feb 01

How to Kitten/Cat-Proof Your Home

Keeping Your Home Safe for Cats or Kittens

Kitten-Proof Your House And Yard

Keep cabinets and drawers closed, and keep medicines, cleaning supplies and pest control products safely out of their reach.

Remove potted plants, except for cat grass, as most plants are dangerous and some are poisonous to cats.  Even non-poisonous plants can cause intestinal problems for cats. Here is a partial list of plants that are toxic to cats:  Amaryllis, Crocus, Azaleas, Chrysanthemum, Cyclamen, Dieffenbachia, English ivy, Kalanchoe, Lilies, Oleander, Peace Lily, Poinsettia, Pothos, Rubber Plant,  Sago Palm, Tulips and Weeping Fig.

Keep trash cans and wastebaskets out of reach or use covered wastebaskets.

Store plastic bags where your kitten can’t get inside them and suffocate, or chew and tear them, or swallow bits of plastic.  If you let your kitten or cat play with a paper bag, be sure to cut off the handles as she could get tangled in them.

Keep drapery and blinds cords coiled up and out of reach.  A kitten could easily strangle itself by getting the cord wrapped around its neck or by swallowing chewed pieces of the plastic pulls.

Remove tablecloths and tie up or remove cloth drapes and curtains until your kitten is trained to use a scratching post.

Keep your toilet lid down to prevent kitty from falling in and possibly drowning.  It’s best to keep the bathroom off limits, if possible.

 

 

 

 

Always keep the door to your clothes dryer closed and always check inside the drier before using it. Cats like to find dark, warm places to sleep, and the results could be tragic.

Before leaving home, always conduct a “kitten check” to make sure that she has not been accidentally locked in a closet or empty room.

Unplug any electric cords that are not in use, and cover those cords that are being used. This will protect your cat if she is a chewer.

Pack away fragile objects and treasures or find a secure way to display them.  Cats are explorers, and they will jump on tables, cabinets, and bookshelves.  Keep anything that may be broken or may be harmful to them away from their curiosity.

Secure your door and window screens and ensure that the latches are sturdy. Don’t run the risk of your cat slipping outside on a warm day when your windows are open.

In keeping with the safety of all pets kept in the home, always use animal-safe insect repellent or pest control products.

If your cat or kitten will be indoors-outdoors kept, be sure that your yard is clear of hazardous materials, snail poisons, rodent traps or any other products that might be harmful to them.

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Pet Care Tips

  1. Use safety/breakaway collars made specifically for cats, which are designed to break if the kitty catches its collar on something.  Other collars are designed not to break and can strangle your kitten if it gets caught.
  2. Talk with your veterinarian about having your kitten or cat micro-chipped. Should your pet wander away and get lost, they can be easily identified and are far more likely to be returned to you.
  3. Bitter apple or lemon-scented sprays are both very good for marking areas that you wish to be off-limits to your kitten. Grannicks Bitter Apple Original Dog Spray is reviewed to be very effective for cats and is available on Chewy.com.
  4. The common sense secret to kitten-proofing your house is to “look through the eyes of a cat”.  If you see things that are attractive as toys or amusement and it’s something harmful, remove it or make it safe.
  5. If at all possible, keep your kitten or cat inside at all times. There are many dangers animals face when outdoors, so make his indoor world interesting with a variety of safe toys and give him loving attention.

You and your kitten or cat will hopefully have a wonderful relationship for many years, so keep him safe and healthy and enjoy each stage of his life.

happy pets blog cat kissing woman

 

 

 

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Jan 25

Choosing the Right Cat at a Shelter

How to Choose a Cat from a Shelter

 

It has been shown that owning a pet, like a cat, reduces stress and blood pressure levels in their owners.  Bringing a new cat or kitten into your home can be an exciting time, but it is important to consider the decision carefully.  To ensure that both you, your family, and your new cat have a healthy, happy life, be sure to choose the right cat for your lifestyle and your family environment.

The basics are common sense – You must be ready to commit to a long-term investment, as some cats can live up to 20 years.  Be sure that you are ready to give your furry family member a forever home.

If you have a lot of time to dedicate to your new pet, a kitten might be your best choice.  They are full of energy and need a lot of time and attention.   They will need interactive playtime and some training.

An adult cat will still need love and attention, but will not need quite so much time for dedicated playtime or training.

Seriously consider adopting an older cat.  They have usually already been trained to live in households with children and/or other pets.  Sadly, most of them will be overlooked in favor of cute kittens, but these older pets are still capable of giving you love and companionship.

Once you have chosen a shelter or rescue organization, keep these tips and suggestions in mind:

  • Bring a cat carrier with you for bringing your new friend home.
  • Take a quick walk-through in the kennel and observe the behaviors and attitudes of the cats and kittens.
  • Go back through and take more time to look at the cats that caught your attention during the first pass. Cats who come up to the door or front of the cage to try to smell you and show an interest are the more social and are good candidates. Try to waken the sleeping cats to observe their appearance and behavior.

When you have selected several cats to examine more thoroughly, ask the attendant if they can be released to you, one by one, for a quick physical check.

While holding the cat or kitten, examine its eyes. They should be bright and clear, with no discharge.
Check the cat’s nose, which should be clean and slightly moist, and with no discharge.
Listen to the cat’s breathing for any signs of congestion, sneezing, or coughing.  These could signal an indication of Kennel Cough (Bordatella).

Look in her ears, which should be clean.  Dirty ears can be signs of ear mites.

The cat’s fur should be clean and shiny, with no evidence of fleas. Look in the armpits and belly for signs of fleas.
Check the cat’s bottom. It should be clean and free of any signs of diarrhea or worms.

If you can spend a few minutes in a quiet place with each cat, this will usually tell you what kind of personality it has.  They should all be interested in meeting you, and do give them some time to warm up to you.

See how the cat reacts to being petted, and if she tries to bite or swat at you, this may not be the right choice.
Pick up the cat, and if she enjoys being held this might be a perfect lap cat.  If she becomes frantic and claws to be put down, this is definitely not a lap cat.

If you have children, bring them on the shelter visit to see how the cats interact with them.  This is important in choosing a cat that is patient around children, and is interested in being around them.

Ask the shelter if a veterinarian visit is included or available with adoptions.  If you have other pets in your household, it is a good idea to have the cat checked by a vet before you bring her home.

*Important:  Ask lots of questions!  Ask how long the cat has been there, the reason for its surrender, medical history (veterinary records), its normal behaviors, and anything else that is a concern.

happy pets blog little girl and cat

Take your time with your decision, and remember that you are making this choice for you, your family, and for your new pet.

Cheri

 

Jan 18

Choosing the Right Rescue/Shelter Dog

Choosing the Right Rescue/Shelter Dog

There are many people, myself included, who believe that adopting a dog from a shelter or rescue group is the right thing to do.  Simply put, there are great dogs in shelters, and those dogs need good homes.   Of course, there are also canine train wrecks in shelters who are likewise looking for homes, but who might cause problems and trauma for the average dog owner.  Here are some tips to help prospective adopters in finding the diamonds in the rough in those shelters and rescue orgs.

Prep Before You Visit The Shelter

Consider what you’re looking for in a dog.  Overall, a great dog is one who will really like people and wants to be with them (has a high level of sociability), is affectionate, congenial, and bonds easily and strongly.  These types of dogs are the most rewarding and easy to have in your life.  In deciding between a puppy or young dog as compared to an older, more settled dog, you must remember the importance of high-maintenance versus low-maintenance responsibility on your part.

Visit Petfinder.com and research shelters and rescue organizations in your area.  Researching online will also make more options available for places to look for your new pup.  When you have selected a place to visit, call them and ask about their adoption procedures and ask if they will allow you to visit with a prospective new family member outside of the kennel, and if they do not allow it, cross them off of your list.  Another important question to ask is if they do any kind of temperament testing or evaluation.

Visit The Shelter And Look For Friendly Dogs

My advice would be to make a quick first pass through, making note of the dogs that stand out for you.  Then make a second pass and stop and visit each of the dogs you liked on the first round.

A friendly, social dog will wiggle when he sees you coming, and he may press against the kennel to try to get close to you.  His tail will be wagging, not high and tight over his back, but loose and low.
If he barks, his bark is excited and happy, not a deep, aggressive bark that comes from the chest.
Put your hand up to the kennel wire or bars (not inside).  The dog should readily come to you and sniff your hand.  Tell him he’s a good dog and move your hand slowly back and forth several times.  A social dog will follow your hand.

When you have identified the dogs who are friendly and social, take them out of their kennels, one at a time, either outside or to a quiet room if possible.

Once you are alone with the dog, use Cesar Milan’s no-touch, no-talk, no-eye-contact rule:  Ignore the dog, but stand or sit close to him so that he can get used to your presence and scent.  Do this for about 5 minutes if possible.  He should look at you and perhaps lean against you to try to get your attention.  You can get a good gauge of his friendliness and his interest in wanting to be with you, as well as his focus and energy level.

If he seems to want your attention, pet him slowly and gently down his back.  If he appears to enjoy this and leans into you, wanting more contact, he’s a keeper.  If he shakes you off or lunges away from your touch, he’s telling you that he doesn’t like being petted or being around you.  Put him back in the kennel and cross him off your list.
Ask if you can take your favorite choices for a short leash walk.  You will be able to learn about his energy and personality by a short 5-10 minute walk.  Watch for any aggressive behavior toward other people or animals while on the leash.   If you see any, cross this pup off your list.

It is important to notice during this whole visit how the dogs you’ve put on your favorites list behave when other people walk by, especially children.  Avoid a dog that barks too aggressively or lunges at anyone.
Some of the factors to consider during your visit are: the dog’s body language, how he responds to being touched, how rough or gentle he is in play, how excitable he is and how quickly he calms down, his reaction to other dogs, how he responds to being startled, and how he responds when approached when he’s in possession of food or a toy.

After spending time with your few favorite choices and using these tips, you will most certainly have picked the winner.  You can now proceed in the adoption process and bring your new family member home!

happy pets blog lost dog 3

Cheri

Jan 11

Adopting a Pet from a Shelter or Rescue Group

 

The Pros and Cons of Adopting a Shelter or Rescue Pet

Loving pets of all sizes, shapes, and ages are waiting in shelters or rescue groups in hope of finding a forever home. The stigma that all shelter and rescue pets have health or behavioral problems is simply untrue. According to Petfinder.com, the main reasons people give up their pets include moving, landlord issues, financial reasons, and changes in family dynamics. Rescue groups and shelters are filled with wonderful animals who would like nothing more than to have a chance at a happy life and their own family to share it with.

Pros

You are saving a life. This is the most significant benefit of adopting a pet. When you adopt from a shelter, you save a life from possible euthanization and when you adopt from a rescue group you free up a foster home to take in another pet from a shelter. This all helps pet overpopulation in an important way.

It is less expensive to adopt than to use a breeder or a pet store (I am very much against pet store shopping for pets). Pet adoption fees usually include the spaying or neutering of the animal, vaccinations, and behavioral evaluation of the animal to determine its personality, temperament, and habits.

The “rescue bond” is unlike any other, and I can personally attest to this. Pets who have been uprooted from their happy homes or those who have not had the best start in life are more likely to bond completely and deeply with their new people.  They seem to be grateful, and most rescue pets make exceptionally affectionate and attentive pets and very loyal companions.

You have many choices in age, size, breeds (there are purebred animals in many pet shelters and rescue groups) when you adopt. Many beautiful purebred dogs end up in shelters, and you can always check for breed-specific rescue groups for a breed that you prefer. Mixed breed dogs seem to be preferred, and they are oftentimes less prone to breed-specific health issues and may live longer.

More information about the animal is usually available from rescue groups and shelters. You can talk to the people who have been spending time with the animal in the shelter or foster home to get a behavioral analysis that will ensure a right fit for you and your family. Many pets are already house trained and possibly micro-chipped, which is a definite plus!

Some shelters and rescue groups offer a grace period where you can “try out” the new pet to determine whether the animal is a good fit for your family and your lifestyle.  If things do not work out, you are able to return the pet, so be sure to ask about this option.

Cons

You may not be able to find the exact breed you want in shelters.  Again, check for breed-specific rescue groups in your area.

You may not be able to adopt the pet you want immediately. There are often waiting periods which shelters and rescue groups observe.

You may get little or no medical history, depending on the circumstances of the animal’s reason for being surrendered to the shelter or rescue group.  In my case with Josh, he was a starving stray who wandered into my yard, so there was no background information.  In adopting Betsy from Petfinder.com, I received copies of all of her medical records from the time of her birth from the person who was fostering her.

It may be difficult to adopt a puppy, although some shelters and rescue groups have them available. Petfinder.com has many puppies listed online, and you can usually locate a shelter or rescue group in your area that has puppies available.

*In summary, choosing a rescue or shelter pet over an animal from a breeder or pet store will not solve the pet overpopulation problem, but it does give many animals a chance for a happy, healthy life that they would not have otherwise had.  A rescued or adopted animal will reward you with more love and loyalty than you could ever imagine, and it will probably be one of the best decisions you’ll make for yourself and your family.

Adopting A Pet From A Shelter

Cheri