Dec 04

Dangers Of Xylitol Poisoning In Dogs

Xylitol Dangers In Dogs

 Dog owners should already know the dangers that foods like chocolate, garlic, onions, and grapes pose to their canine companions’ health, although they are foods that are harmless to most people.

Another common substance that’s harmless to most humans but potentially life-threatening if consumed by dogs is Xylitol. The problem is that many sugar-free products contain Xylitol. So what exactly is this scary sounding chemical (pronounced zi-li-tol)? Xylitol is a sugar-free substance used as a sugar substitute. It’s commonly called a “sugar alcohol,” and is naturally found in certain fruit (in very small amounts).

But for dogs, Xylitol poisoning is a major problem. Ingesting Xylitol causes a rapid and massive insulin release in dogs, which will manifest itself outwardly to a pet owner as acute weakness, staggering, and vomiting. Within 15 to 20 minutes, they might even be comatose, and depending on the amount consumed, a dog can also experience liver failure from ingesting Xylitol.

Why is Xylitol Dangerous to Dogs, but Not People?

In both people and dogs, the level of blood sugar is controlled by the release of insulin from the pancreas. In people, Xylitol does not stimulate the release of insulin from the pancreas. However, it’s different in canines: When dogs eat something containing Xylitol, it is more quickly absorbed into the bloodstream, and may result in a potent release of insulin from the pancreas.

This rapid release of insulin may result in a rapid and profound decrease in the level of blood sugar (hypoglycemia), an effect that can occur within 10 to 60 minutes of eating the Xylitol. Untreated, this hypoglycemia can quickly become life-threatening.

(A note to cat owners: The toxicity of Xylitol for cats has not been documented. They appear to be spared, at least in part, by their disdain for sweets.)

Xylitol is found in trace amounts in many fruits and vegetables, but because it’s occurring naturally and in such small amounts in these cases, it’s hardly ever a problem for pets.

On the other hand, many grocery stores have started carrying sugar-free foods like ketchup, peanut butter, protein bars, pudding, and more that contain Xylitol as one of their primary ingredients.  You’ll need to check the ingredients list on the label to know if something sugar-free is made with Xylitol or some other substitute.  And in some cases, products that are not labeled as sugar-free still contain Xylitol. It is important to always carefully read the entire ingredient list of any food before giving it to your dog.

Xylitol is commonly found in many household products including the following:

Some nut butters (peanut, etc)                                                                                                                                                                                              Sugar-free or Diabetic snacks (e.g., gums)
Sugar-free or Diabetic foods
Baked goods
Chewing Gum
Mints
Candies
Mouthwashes
Toothpastes (Xylitol has been found in large amounts)
Chewable sugar-free multivitamins
Chewable sugar-free medications
Nasal sprays
Medications (including oral pills over-the-counter like melatonin or prescription medications like gabapentin)

As you can see from this list, Xylitol is in just about everything now. The Pet Poison Helpline cites gum as the source of nearly 80% of cases involving Xylitol. While gum manufacturers have the options of using other sugar substitutes, like erythritol and Stevia, Xylitol is the only one experts know of that causes such adverse reactions in canines.

Because packaged Xylitol can be bought in bulk at many food stores, baked foods are becoming a more common source of canine health emergencies. It’s a good option for diabetics who like to bake, and similarly, you might find some already-made baked goods containing Xylitol at bakeries and specialty stores. And because cupcakes and cookies have a lot more sweetener, a pet that consumes a baked good packed with Xylitol is in danger of facing a life-threatening situation.

Symptoms of xylitol poisoning in dogs include the following:

Weakness or lethargy
Depression
Walking drunk
Acute collapse
Vomiting
Trembling or tremoring
Seizures
A racing heart rate
Jaundiced gums
Black-tarry stool
Diarrhea
Bruising
Abnormal mentation
Clotting problems
Death
Liver failure may occur in severe cases of toxicity due to the dog’s low blood sugar. A small piece of sugar-free gum (or 0.1 g/kg of Xylitol) may be considered a toxic dose of Xylitol, depending on the dog’s weight.

If you think your dog was accidentally poisoned by a sugar-free product, first, stay calm! Next, read the ingredients to see if the product contained Xylitol. The general rule is that if Xylitol is listed in the first 3-5 ingredients (typically in order of the amount that they appear in the food or product), it is going to be poisonous!

At this point, you need to call your vet or the Pet Poison Helpline immediately, and give them as much information as you can. Depending on the severity, they may suggest feeding [the dog] syrup or honey—something sweet to help keep their blood sugar up temporarily while you drive to seek emergency help.

In most cases, symptoms will develop within 15 to 30 minutes of ingestion of the Xylitol. However, there are some sugar-free gums that delay the onset of symptoms for up to 12 hours or more.

**If your dog does get into something sugar-free, always check the ingredient list. Note that other sound-a-likes like sorbitol, maltitol, and erythritol are not poisonous to dogs. Likewise, other sugar-free products such as stevia, saccharin, sucralose, aspartame, etc. are also not poisonous to dogs. If your dog gets into one of these other sound-a-likes, it’s not poisonous. No need to worry, as long as you’re positive there’s no Xylitol!

If your dog did ingest a poisonous dose of Xylitol, treatment includes the following:

  • Checking a blood sugar level with your veterinarian. If it’s normal and ingestion was recent (within a few hours), your veterinarian may induce vomiting.
  • If your dog is hypoglycemic, an immediate intravenous (IV) dextrose (i.e., sugar) is a must, followed by hospitalization. Treatment will include IV fluids with sugar supplementation (e.g., dextrose) for a minimum of 12-18 hours. If your dog is able to maintain his blood sugar as the dextrose supplementation is weaned down over time, then your dog can go home.                       
  • If a toxic dose was ingested and not vomited back up, your veterinarian will recommend hospitalizing your dog for IV fluids, dextrose supplementation, and symptomatic supportive care.
  • Careful monitoring of blood work (including the liver enzymes, electrolytes and blood sugar) is necessary.
  • If your dog ingested a dose approaching the liver-toxic amount of xylitol, the use of liver protectants is warranted. Most dogs are sent home on liver protectants for several weeks, and liver enzymes will be rechecked frequently by the veterinarian, to be on the safe side.
  • Because hypoglycemia and other serious adverse effects may not occur in some cases for up to 12 to 24 hours, your dog may need to be monitored.

What Can You Do To Avoid Xylitol Poisoning In Your Dog?

If you’re concerned about your dog eating a food or product with xylitol in it, check the label of ingredients. If it does, indeed, say that it contains xylitol, make sure your pet can’t get to it.

In addition:

  • Keep products that contain xylitol (including those you don’t think of as food, such as toothpaste) well out of your dog’s reach. Remember that some dogs are adept at counter surfing.
  • Only use pet toothpaste for pets, never use toothpaste for humans.
  • If you give your dog nut butter as a treat or as a way to take their pills, check the label first to make sure it doesn’t contain xylitol.

Living and Management

Dogs suffering from low blood sugar alone tend to recover well, but if liver damage occurs, the prognosis is guarded to poor. Blood glucose levels will be monitored for at least 24 hours; liver enzyme tests should be repeated often for at least 72 hours.

When in doubt, if you think your dog got into Xylitol, contact your veterinarian or an Animal Poison Control Center right away for life-saving care. They can help calculate and determine whether or not the amount of Xylitol ingested was poisonous or not. Always try to keep these products or foods out of reach of your pets.

Remember, with any pet poisoning, the sooner you recognize the problem and seek veterinary attention, the less expensive and less dangerous it is to your pet!

If you have any questions or concerns, you should always visit or call your veterinarian — they are your best resource to ensure the health and well-being of your pets.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nov 28

How To Stop Your Dog From Begging

Training Your Dog To Stop Begging

Do you have guests coming over for the holidays? Sometimes we don’t realize just how annoying some of our dog’s behaviors can be until we see it from the perspective of company in the home. And that’s particularly true with begging from the dinner table.

Begging is a common behavior problem faced by dog owners. It can be frustrating to have your dog hounding you for food every time you take out a snack or sit down to a meal.

Why Do Dogs Beg?

Begging is a natural behavior, so it takes a lot of consistency to undo the behavior if you’ve been reinforcing it.

Wolves began scavenging for human food many years ago. They started hanging around humans for scraps, and the tamer the wolf the more they were rewarded with extra bits of food. Begging isn’t rude or weird to your dog; it’s instinctive.                     

Domesticated dogs are hard-wired to seek out opportunities to obtain food from humans. And because they’re observant they quickly learn that begging produces results. It is one of the most common complaints of pet owners, but there is hope. If you really want to teach your dog not to beg you’re going to have to learn to stop giving in.

How To Stop Your Dog From Begging

We’re guilty of reinforcing our dog’s bad behaviors, and since our dogs know us so well they’re good at learning how to get what they want. Dogs beg more when we’re looking at them; they know it works. Those big puppy dog eyes and all that whining – it works really well on us humans.

The first step when teaching your dog not to beg is to make a promise to yourself: stop giving in. Every time you give your dog a treat from the table it’s teaching them that begging works. It might not work every day, but our dogs have good memories; they’ll keep trying if they know it worked last week.

It’s not fair to expect good behavior from our dogs if we ourselves don’t remain consistent. If you want your dog to stop begging you have to ensure that you’re not giving him mixed signals. You can’t scold him for begging while company is over and then give in the next day. You have to be consistent and fair.

Training ourselves to be consistent is usually the hardest part; the rest is fairly simple.

Don’t Reward the Behavior

Managing this behavior is one of the toughest parts for dog owners. When confronted with a pair of pleading puppy eyes, it can be hard not to give in now and then and toss a little nibble from your plate or snack bowl.

Unfortunately, if you give in even once, it’s going to be that much harder to put an end to this behavior.

When you’re trying to train yourself not to give in to this behavior, be sure to keep your dog’s health in mind. It’s much easier to resist feeding the dog scraps from your own plate if you remember that it can lead to obesity and a number of health problems for your pet down the road.

Ignore Your Dog’s Begging

If your dog already has the habit of begging for food you need to completely ignore the behavior. If he receives a scrap from you one single time he knows that his efforts might pay off next time.

Don’t look at your dog while be begs. Don’t speak to him. Don’t shoo him away. Just ignore him. Yes, I know how difficult this is, believe me!

If you look into those big eyes while he’s begging you might feel bad for him and give him a bite. Any attention you give him while he’s begging might make him think you’re just about to give him some food since it’s worked so well in the past.

He will probably fuss and protest if he’s a prolific beggar, but you are going to have to learn to ignore it. Your dog will eventually learn that “hey, I guess that’s not going to work anymore.”

Don’t equate food with love. Your dog is not starving. You feed him well every morning and evening. More than 50% of American dogs are overweight, your dog doesn’t need any extras. If you still feel bad just remember, he’s manipulating you.

It’s not their fault that they’re so darn cute,  but remember – your dog is not starving and all those extra bits of food can shave years off his life.

Separate Your Dog From the Dinner Table

One of the simplest ways to stop your for from begging is by preventing the behavior to begin with. You can do this by separating your dog from the dinner table.      

You can teach your dog to lay down in another room while you eat, or you can use a baby gate to keep them in a separate room. If your dog is already a beggar remember that his behavior is probably going to be quite resistant for a little bit before it gets better, but the consistency will eventually pay off.

Have your dog lay down in his bed, in his crate, or wherever you’ve chosen for him. Praise him when he lays down and give him some treats in this spot.

Depending on his stay command you might have to work at this for awhile before he’s consistently staying in his new spot. After you’ve eaten, go over to him and give him lots of praise and give him treats. Let him know that the behavior of sitting calmly while the family eats is what’s going to yield the best reward.

If you don’t think your dog is going to be able to stay for any amount of time or you don’t have a decent stay command mastered, you can choose to separate him with a barrier. Baby gates are a common choice.

Redirect His Attention While You Eat

If you don’t want your dog to stay completely separated from you while you eat, you can redirect his attention to some food, toys, or treats of his own. Give your dog something else to focus on while you eat. Give him one of his favorite bully sticks, or stuff some peanut butter inside of a Kong. Whatever makes him happy and keeps him occupied is what you’re going to use for distraction.

Ignore him if he gets up from his treat to beg. He will probably do this for a while if he’s accustomed to begging.

Another option is to feed your dog his meals at the same time you are having yours. Place his food down for the duration of your meal. Ignore him if he comes to you and begs. When your meal is over, pick up his food bowl whether he’s eaten or not. Your dog will quickly learn that he needs to eat his own food at mealtimes if he doesn’t want to go hungry.

As long as you don’t give in and feed him from the table, your dog will eventually learn that his begging skills aren’t going to pay off anymore.

If you’re consistent and decide to stick with it, begging can be easy to correct.  You need to be firm and persistent and you need the whole family involved.  If someone in the family decides that they’re not going to play along and gives in, you are not going to be successful.  If everyone is on the same page, your family’s teamwork will pay off!

 

 

 

 

Nov 21

Can Your Cat Catch A Cold?

Can Your Cat Catch A Cold?

Feline Upper Respiratory Infection

The viruses that cause colds in people are generally species-specific. Except perhaps under the rarest of circumstances, the viruses that make people sick with a cold are incapable of causing illness in cats. So, if you’re wondering “can cats catch a cold from people,” the answer is almost always “no.”

On the other hand, several feline viruses (e.g., feline herpes virus and feline calicivirus) and even a few bacteria do cause clinical signs that look a lot like those that people with colds develop. Upper respiratory infections can occur in any cat but are most common in kittens or under-vaccinated adults who have had contact with other cats.

Cats seek relief from most of the same cold symptoms as we do, including watery eyes, a runny nose, fever, sneezing, loss of appetite and a feeling of lethargy. They can also lose their voice, or rather, their meow. Cat colds typically last from one to four weeks depending on how quickly they’re diagnosed and treated. There is an incubation period, the time period from point of infection to when clinical signs become apparent, of 2–10 days. It is thought that the incubation period is the time of highest contagion.

Although cats can’t spread the virus to people, they can spread it to other cats.

No matter how uncomfortable your cat gets, though, you should never give her over-the-counter medicines meant for people. The most important thing is to take your cat to the vet for care before you do anything.  Once you consult with your veterinarian to determine the diagnosis, you will know how to deal with your cat’s cold and what treatment options to follow.

CAT COLD SYMPTOMS

Some common symptoms of the infections that cause “kitty colds” include:

  • Sneezing                                             
  • Discharge from the eyes or runny nose; this may be watery or thick and clear, white, yellow, or green.
  • Excessive swallowing (if there is drainage into the back of the mouth and throat).
  • Coughing
  • Lethargy
  • Loss of appetite
  • Fever
  • Dehydration
  • Raised third eyelid (The third eyelid provides an extra layer of eye protection for cats and many other animals.  Other names for the third eyelid include the nictitating membrane, nictitans and haw.  Arising from the corner of the eye nearest the nose, the retractable third eyelid can be hidden from view or can extend across the surface of the eye.  It is white to light pink in color and lies on top of the eye, but underneath the eyelids.  It contains cartilage and a tear-producing gland at its base.  When irritated, it can appear reddened.)

PRIMARY CAUSES OF COLDS IN CATS   

“Colds” in cats are usually caused by infection with certain types of viruses. Feline herpes virus and feline calicivirus are the most common. In some cases, secondary bacterial infections can develop, which may lead to pneumonia.

Cats are also sensitive to change, so if your kitty is feeling stressed out over something like recuperating from being spayed or neutered, being boarded or a change of residence, her immune system may be weakened, which can trigger a cold.

Bacteria and viruses are very contagious and are present in the saliva and discharge produced by the eyes and nose. Healthy cats can get infected when they come into direct contact with a sick cat. Cats with retroviruses are especially vulnerable to the contagions, both through direct contact or indirect contact with contaminated objects.

IMMEDIATE CARE & WHAT TO GIVE A CAT FOR A COLD  

  1. Keep the eyes and nose free of discharge using a soft cloth or paper towel moistened with warm water.
  2. Offer warmed canned cat food or meat-based baby food to encourage your cat to eat.
  3. Provide plenty of fresh water for drinking.
  4. Do not try to give your cat any kind of medication without consulting your vet as many human medications are toxic to cats.
  5. Cats who are not interested in food or have especially severe or worsening symptoms should be seen by a veterinarian.

DIAGNOSIS     

A thorough physical exam is usually sufficient to diagnose an upper respiratory infection. If your cat is not responding to treatment as expected, blood tests, X-rays, and other diagnostic tests may be necessary to determine the underlying cause(s) of a cat’s symptoms and plan more aggressive treatment.

HOW TO TREAT A CAT WITH A COLD   

Increase the humidity in your home.  Using a vaporizer that produces warm moist air (or placing the cat in a steamy bathroom) will help the nasal passages and sinuses to drain. If you can get your cat to hang out in a steamy bathroom that can help open nasal passages while fighting infection. For those cats especially resistant to the idea,  have  their favorite person accompany them and encourage them with head scratching or petting.

Also, try having your kitty sit adjacent to a vaporizer with a little Vicks VapoRub added to it. Try for 30 minutes a day for two or three days. It helps relieve congestion just like in newborn babies.

If your cat has been diagnosed with a bacterial infection, your veterinarian will probably prescribe antibiotics. The viral infection, meanwhile, will usually be dealt with by the cat’s own immune system.

When your kitty is congested she can lose her sense of smell, which can result in a loss of appetite. You may be able to entice her into eating with special treats such as a teaspoon of tuna, sardine juice, raw liver, chicken baby food with no onions or a few ounces of honey and yogurt.

If your cat is reluctant to eat, you can soak dry food in water or warm up canned food to slightly more than room temperature. It may make it more palatable and enticing to eat because it brings out the natural odors of the food.

Always provide plenty of fresh water for drinking. Monitoring your cat’s hydration level is also extremely important. You can get an estimate on how hydrated she is by placing a bit of her skin on the back of her neck (the spot where a mother cat would pick up her kitten) between your thumb and forefinger and holding it like a teepee for five seconds, Osborne says. It should snap back to its original position in less than a second. Most vets estimate one percent dehydration for each extra second it takes to return to its original position. Dehydration levels above three to four percent are considered worthy of a trip to the vet.

Another way to measure hydration is to check your cat’s gums. They should be a soft pink color and wet and slippery (like a human’s gums). If your cat’s gums are red and they feel tacky or sticky on your finger then your cat is dehydrated and a trip to the vet is strongly advised.

If your cat is not eating or is dehydrated, he may need to be hospitalized to receive fluid therapy, nutritional support, and other treatments until it is safe for him to come home to continue his recovery.

OTHER CAUSES OF COLD-LIKE SYMPTOMS IN CATS   

Nasal polyps and foreign objects like grass awns—sharp grass seeds that can burrow into a pet’s tissues—can cause symptoms similar to a cold, although they often start on one side of the nose and then spread to the other. Allergies, respiratory irritants, chronic infections, and benign or cancerous tumors are other causes of cold-like symptoms in cats.

LIVING AND MANAGEMENT   

Once your cat returns home, continue any medications or other therapies as directed by your veterinarian. Also keep your cat’s eyes and nose clean of discharge. Make certain that your cat is eating. Cats who go without food for even a short period of time are at risk for developing hepatic lipidosis, a condition involving the liver that is potentially fatal. Cats who are infected with feline herpes virus or calicivirus may have occasional recurrences of their symptoms.

If your cat’s condition fails to improve as expected, make an appointment with your veterinarian. Additional diagnostic work may be needed.

PREVENTION

There are many viruses that can cause upper respiratory infections in cats. Fortunately, there are vaccines available for two of the most common: feline herpes virus and feline calicivirus. Be sure your cat receives the initial series of injections followed by any boosters that are recommended by your veterinarian.

If you have several cats in your home, is it especially important to prevent contagious viruses and illnesses from spreading from one cat to another.

Preventing direct contact between cats is ultimately the best way to avoid infection. If you are bringing home a new cat that has come from a breeder or shelter, it is important to have her visit the veterinarian before introducing her to any cats you currently have. Keep in mind that your new kitty may not yet be showing symptoms, so limited exposure and diligence in cleaning and sanitizing is very important in the first 1–2 weeks after adoption.

In addition to vaccination, disinfection is another highly effective way of minimizing environmental exposure. In high to minimal-risk situations, it is advisable to regularly disinfect shared items such as litter boxes, food bowls, and bedding.

Remember to wash your hands frequently when your cat is not feeling well, regardless of the diagnosis.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nov 13

Reverse Sneezing In Dogs

Reverse Sneezing In Dogs-Causes And Treatment

Reverse sneezing , also known as mechanosensitive aspiration reflex, inspiratory paroxysmal respiration, and pharyngeal gag reflex, is actually a fairly common respiratory event in dogs. It happens more often in small breed dogs, perhaps because they have smaller throats and windpipes.

Brachycephalic breeds, (like pugs and bulldogs, Boston Terrier, Shih Tzu, and Pekinese to name the most common) with elongated soft palates, occasionally suck the palate into the throat, which can cause an episode of reverse sneezing.

Brachycephalia refers to a flat and wide skull shape. This skull shape gives these dogs the characteristic flattened face and short nose.

Interestingly, the phenomenon is very rarely seen in kitties.

How to Recognize an Episode of Reverse Sneezing

In a regular sneeze, air is pushed out through the nose. In a reverse sneeze, air is pulled rapidly and noisily in through the nose. For some dogs, it’s a more or less normal event. Just as sneezing is a part of life, reverse sneezing is also a part of many dogs’ lives.

The sound that accompanies reverse sneezing is kind of a sudden, startling, honking sound that makes many dog owners think their pet is either choking or having an asthma attack.

A dog who is reverse sneezing typically stands still with his elbows spread apart, head extended or back, eyes bulging as he makes this loud snorting sound. The strange stance on top of the strange snorting sound is why many dogs end up getting rushed to the veterinarian or the emergency clinic by their panicked parents.

Episodes of reverse sneezing can last from a few seconds to a minute or two. As soon as it passes, the dog breathes perfectly normally once again and behaves as if nothing happened.

Causes of Reverse Sneezing and How You Can Help Your Pet

Reverse sneezing is caused by a spasm of the throat and soft palate. The spasm is triggered by an irritation to the throat, pharynx, or laryngeal area. The most common triggers are excitement, exercise intolerance, a collar that’s too tight, pulling on the leash, an environmental irritant like pollen, perfume, or even a household chemical or cleaner, room sprays, or even a sudden change in temperature. Rarely, there can be a respiratory infection or chronic post-nasal drip that causes the condition.

Reverse sneezing rarely requires treatment. As soon as the sneezing stops, the situation is resolved.

But since episodes of reverse sneezing can make your dog anxious, it’s important that you remain calm. The biggest issue that might occur is a conditioned panic response in a pet, triggered by an owner who freaks out each time the dog reverse-sneezes.

If you feel the need to do something for your dog, you can try massaging her throat to stop the spasm. You can also try covering your pet’s nostrils very briefly. This will cause her to swallow, which usually helps clear the irritation and stop the sneezing.

If the episode doesn’t end quickly and if you trust your dog’s response, you can try putting your hand in her mouth and pressing on her tongue. This will cause her to open her mouth wider and help move air through the nose effectively.

These types of intervention are usually not necessary and can sometimes add to everyone’s stress level. It is recommended that owners pay attention to when reverse sneezing occurs, where the dog is, and what she’s doing right before or as it begins.

If you can figure out what’s triggering your pet’s reverse sneezing episodes, you can work to reduce or resolve the problem.

When to See the Vet

If your pet’s reverse sneezing becomes a chronic problem, or episodes are becoming more frequent or longer in duration, make an appointment with your vet to rule out things like a potential foreign body in the respiratory tract, nasal cancers, polyps or tumors, nasal mites, a collapsing trachea, kennel cough, or a respiratory infection.

If you’re able to catch a reverse sneezing episode on video to play for your vet, it can sometimes help him or her discern what’s really happening, whether it’s reverse sneezing or perhaps something else.

If your pet is experiencing prolonged episodes of reverse sneezing, bloody or yellow discharge from the nose, or any other accompanying respiratory problems, it’s time to make an appointment with your veterinarian.

And if you have a cat with chronic reverse sneezing, since the condition is less common in kitties, it’s important to investigate the possibility of feline asthma or an upper respiratory infection.

Just as dogs sneeze intermittently throughout their lives, most dogs have at least a few reverse sneezing episodes during their lives as well. In the vast majority of cases, the episodes are temporary and intermittent.  They usually resolve on their own, and leave the dog with no aftereffects to be concerned about.

 

Nov 06

Giving Your Cat A Pill

Giving Your Cat Medications

Finding a way to give your cat medication in a low-stress manner is crucial to her health.Cat parents know that getting a feline to swallow a pill can be a huge challenge. In fact, it might be one of the biggest challenges when it comes to cat care.

Fortunately, there are some simple strategies for camouflaging medication in food and treats.

It is important to note that certain medications may be compromised if they are cut, crushed or mixed with food. Before incorporating any of these tips, talk to your veterinarian.

Pilling Advance Prep  

(Note: the following method works only for medications or supplements that can be given with food.)

The first steps in giving your kitty a pill or supplement should be taken long before she actually needs that pill or supplement. The goal is to help your cat learn to tolerate the handling that will be necessary to pill her, and also to take liquids and solids from a syringe or pill gun.

First get your cat used to being gently handled around her face and mouth, using treats to reward her for allowing the handling and to associate the activity with something pleasant. Make the initial face-and-mouth handling sessions short, and follow up with a meal, petting, or playtime.

As your kitty gets more comfortable with having her face touched, you can begin using your thumb and middle finger to gently lift up slightly on her mouth, forming a C shape with your fingers. Place a special treat like a small morsel of meat that doesn’t need to be chewed into her mouth or immediately upon letting go.

The objective is to get her accustomed to the pilling motion and associate it with something positive.

Cat Pilling Tips

First, coat pill with butter. Check with your vet, but most pills can safely be coated with butter or hidden in a tiny butter ball, which will help them slide all the way down.
Second, offer pill like a treat, out of your hand. Every once in a while cats will take the pill and eat it with no fuss.  If your cat does this, follow with a chaser, and you’re done.
Third, make a Kitty Burrito: Use a towel to gently but securely wrap your cat up like a burrito in a towel, with just her head showing. It really helps to have an assistant to hold the kitty burrito on a table or floor, so you have both hands free to open cat’s mouth, insert pill, and hold your cat’s mouth closed until they swallow.   Don’t forget to give the chaser after!

Pilling in 5 Steps

Now that you’ve been fake-pilling your kitty for awhile, here’s what to do when she needs the pill:

1. Pick your cat’s favorite treat (you may need to try out a few different kinds to learn which one works best).

2. Treat portion sizes must be small enough and soft enough so that your cat doesn’t chew, only licks and swallows. Chewing the pill can release a nasty taste into the treat, and, in addition, many medications must be swallowed whole to be metabolized properly.

3. Have several treats ready before you begin, so that you can offer them in rapid succession once the fun begins.

4. Hide the pill in one treat, and use your other hand to seal the pill in (so kitty won’t smell medication on the outside of the treat).

5. Give a pill-free treat, followed by the treat with the pill, followed by another pill-free treat.

Since cats are extremely clever, it’s a good idea to vary the number of treats you give at each pilling session, as well as the order in which you give the treat holding the pill, so kitty doesn’t learn to predict which treat holds the pill.

Don’t Overlook the Benefits of Syringe- and Pill Gun-Training

It’s also a great idea to teach your cat early on to take things from a syringe or pill gun.

Start by rubbing a soft treat or some moist food on the outside of the device and letting her lick it clean. This will get her used to the feel of it in or near her mouth.

Next, place some moist food or tiny pieces of treat inside the device and gently push them into her mouth in very small amounts.

Once she’s reasonably comfortable taking solids from the device, switch to a few drops of water in the syringe (which she probably won’t enjoy) followed immediately by a syringe with a treat.

The goal is to get kitty comfortable taking liquid and swallowing the pill so the pill doesn’t get stuck in her esophagus. If she’ll take a small amount of broth, tuna juice, or soft food immediately after her pill, it can also help with proper digestion of the medication. This is what I call The Chaser.

*What If My Cat’s Medication or Supplement Can’t Be Given with Food?

Ideally, your veterinarian can prescribe medication or supplements that can be given with food, because “treating” kitty at pill time as described above is the easiest and best way to keep her stress level down.

However, if the medication has to be given away from food, I recommend you practice the steps below a few times in your mind prior to actually engaging your kitty. The more efficient you are with your cat, the smoother the process will go.

(These instructions are for right-handed people. If you’re left-handed, you’ll need to adjust them accordingly.)

1. Place kitty on a sturdy, flat surface like a tabletop. Your cat will naturally try to back away from the pill, so you want to rest your right arm on the table and tuck him into the crook of your right elbow.

Trying to approach your cat from the front will have him backing away and escaping from you and the pill. That’s why your body should be behind the cat, with both of you facing the same direction.

2. Hold the pill in your left hand.

3. With your right hand, place your right thumb on one side of your cat’s face on the cheek and your index finger on the other cheek and gently lift his nose toward the ceiling. This will make his mouth drop open a bit.

4. Now use a finger of your left hand to open his lower jaw wider. This position prevents him from being able to bite because he can’t control his lower jaw.

5. Place the pill as far back as possible into his mouth, then let go of his face, but keep him tucked into your elbow. If he licks his lips, it’s an indication the pill has gone down.

Please note: It’s futile, not to mention dangerous, to try to give your cat a pill with his head in a natural position. You will likely be bitten, which is why you must position his head vertically.

6. Many cats actually pretend they’ve swallowed the pill when they haven’t. As soon as they get free, out pops the pill and the joke’s on you.  So don’t let kitty go before checking his mouth for the pill. Cats figure out pretty quickly we’re waiting for licking motions and many clever felines have been known to make the licking motion with the pill still in their mouth.

7. If you can still see the pill in there, re-open your cat’s mouth as described above, reach a finger in and move the pill further back on the tongue if possible. If that doesn’t work, let kitty spit the pill out and start over.

8.  Do not dry pill a cat without a chaser. Always follow a pill by immediately giving your cat a chaser: canned food, broth, or water… and making sure they eat or drink at least one full teaspoon. This will help the pill go all the way down. If they are sick or just won’t eat canned food, or even lap up watered-down chicken baby food, you may have to gently syringe 6cc of water into the corner of their mouths. NEVER DRY PILL a cat or kitten. The pill can get stuck and be fatal!

Alternatively, you can use a pill gun or pill popper (a device used to hold the pill or capsule and place it in the mouth), again placing the medication on the tongue at the back of your cat’s mouth.  Continue to hold your cat’s head in a slightly tilted position with the mouth closed until you see your cat swallow. Follow the pilling procedure with a treat for your cat.

If your cat struggles and attempts to scratch,  remember to wrap a thick towel around her to protect yourself from your cat’s claws.

Hide it in Her Food

Crushed & mixed into canned food. Ask your vet if you can crush the pill or cut it into tiny bits, then mix it into very fragrant canned cat food when they are hungry. Only try this if you have an extra pill, as you cat may refuse to eat it.

Use the right treat and the right approach. I have had the best luck hiding pills in treats that have a strong taste and flavor and that can be molded around the edges of the pill to completely cover it. To eliminate any trace of medicine on the outside of the treat, use one hand to fill and the other hand to seal the treat.

Try the three-treat trick. This is a go-to method for many veterinary offices. The first treat is empty of medicine; the second contains the well-concealed medicine. The third treat encourages the cat to finish the medicine treat so she can get one more nibble. All three treats should look alike and should be given in a similar manner to hopefully prevent the cat from guessing which contains the pill. The number of treats can be changed if needed — if the cat needs more than one pill, for example, or just needs a little extra coaxing.

Hide pill in pill pockets. Pill Pockets or other brands of pill wraps are a soft treat you can mold around the pill so your cat will eat it. If it’s a bigger pill, ask your vet if you can cut the pill up – make sure to ask, because some pills have a coating that shouldn’t be cut.

Change the Form

Cut it into pieces. Ideally, your cat’s pills will be small enough that they can be swallowed whole. If the pill is too large to swallow, talk with your veterinarian about using a pill cutter to break it into smaller pieces; divide those pieces into as many swallowable treats as needed.

Crush it. Some pills can be crushed, but talk with your veterinarian before you go this route. Be sure that the medication won’t be compromised and keep in mind that crushing a pill may release a bitter taste. If your cat’s medication can be crushed, you can conceal it in a soft binding food, such as canned cat food, or in a small amount of fish or lean meat. Another option is to dilute the crushed medication in a liquid, like low-sodium chicken broth or the water drained from a can of tuna or clams. Talk with your veterinarian about which option is best for your cat.

Liquid medication instead of a pill. Many medications are readily available in a liquid form, you just have to ask. If not already made, some can be compounded into a chicken or tuna-flavored liquid. This allows cats that are either unwilling or unable to take medication other ways to still get their medication. There are special compounding pharmacies that can do this if your veterinarian is unable to formulate the flavored medication in the hospital.

To give a liquid medication, place your cat on a flat surface, facing away from you with her hindquarters against your body. You should already have the medication drawn up into a dosing syringe. Use your free hand to tilt your cat’s head up slightly. Place the tip of syringe in the back corner of your cat’s mouth, squirting the medication in the space between the cheek and gums. Be sure to reward your cat with a favorite treat afterward.

Some medications are also available as a transdermal gel, or can be compounded into one. This special medicated gel can be absorbed through the skin rather than requiring oral administration. Typically, these medications are applied to the inside of the tip of the ear.

Transdermal patches are another alternative that may be an option with some medications. These are patches with medication embedded in them that are affixed directly to the skin. The medication is then released from the patch through the skin in a time-released manner. Fentanyl, a potent pain reliever, is often dosed as a patch. Unfortunately, not all medications lend themselves well to transdermal applications.

 

Your veterinarian will be able to help you choose a medication delivery system that is manageable for you and comfortable for your cat, so ask him what’s possible!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oct 30

Feeding Multiple Pets

How To Manage Feeding Time In A Multiple-Pet Household


Pet parents know that feeding time in a multi-cat and/or multi-dog household can be a circus. Making sure each pet gets her proper allowance requires time and a lot of patience. Even if you measure out the correct allowance for each pet, how do you ensure they actually eat it? Once the food is in the bowl it is fair game for all!

From sensitive tummies, young age, old age, obesity and medication, there are plenty of reasons why your pets might need to eat an individual diet. But what happens when you have multiple cats or dogs who are all raiding each other’s food bowls, eating more than they should, bullying other pets at mealtime and dining on food not meant for them? Unfortunately, this can lead to weight gain, weight loss (when some poor pets aren’t getting their fair share), and even illness if a dog or cat is ingesting medication not meant for them.

Some Reasons Why You Might Need To Feed individually

There are multiple reasons for why you might find that you need to feed your pets individually at some stage, either for the short term or as a permanent solution.                  

  • One pet is particularly pushy, and takes food from another after they have eaten their own meal
  • One pet eats significantly more than the others, leading to possible weight problems in the initial cat and the others possibly not getting enough food
  •  Cats trying to eat dog food and vice versa
  •  You need to monitor your pet’s food intake precisely and know how much exactly one particular pet is eating, and of what
  •  You need to feed a special diet to one pet, such as a prescription diet or low calorie diet that is important to that pet’s well-being
  •  You need to place medication for one pet in their food, and be able to tell for sure that they have eaten it and also ensure that a different pet doesn’t eat it instead

Solutions

1. Everybody eats the same thing.
Occasionally, if one of your pets needs a special diet, you can simplify things by having everyone eat the same thing. This of course will depend on whether or not your veterinarian thinks this strategy is medically sound. That will depend on the features of the diet and the life stage and health status of each pet. It usually applies to all-dog or all-cat households, since cats can’t be fed dog food (it just doesn’t meet their nutrient needs). Check with your veterinarian first to see if this is an option in your home. While it may be the easiest way, this strategy may not be in your pets’ best interest or it may not be the most cost-effective option.

2. Physical barriers can be effective.
For households with dogs and cats, an obvious part of the solution may be to feed the cats in an area that the dog can’t access. Feeding a feline behind a cat-sized door or in an elevated feeding location often works for this. However, having a cat-sized dog or a cat that can’t access an elevated location can make this strategy problematic.

3. Don’t free-feed.
Having a dry diet available to pets at all times (“free-feeding”) is a convenient way to feed cats or dogs in same species multi-pet households. However, free-feeding makes it nearly impossible to feed different diets to different pets unless you are able to completely contain them in some way. First, free-fed pets have a tendency to eat too much and become overweight, which poses a number of health problems and ultimately negates the convenience factor of free-feeding. Secondly, unless you’re only free-feeding a single pet and keeping track of the amount fed (also inconvenient), it’s not possible to know how much the pet eats. That’s fine as long as all goes well, but a change in appetite can provide information about your pet’s health status, and not being able to tell your veterinarian about your pet’s food intake means he is missing important information about your pet’s health. Third, if a diet change needs to be made, knowing the current intake makes that process go more smoothly.

4. Start with a plan.
Whenever you need to feed multiple pets, make sure you have the necessary tools and procedures in place. Obtain additional food bowls as needed. Decide who will be fed what diet, how much he’ll get and where he’ll eat. Pets fed in the same room will need supervision, and pets that finish their meals faster should leave the area until everyone is done eating. It can be helpful to have a “dog room” and a “cat room” for feeding or to feed in shifts.

5. Teach your pets what to expect.
Make a routine for feeding and include some obvious signals for the start (think dinner bell) and end (think picking up food bowls) of feeding time. Be consistent about timing.

6. Involve your veterinarian.
Your vet can give you estimates of how much each pet should be fed. Keep track of how much each pet eats and whether they gain, maintain or lose weight on that amount of food. Like humans, each pet’s exact calorie requirements can vary from estimates, so it’s important to adjust the amounts fed as needed. This is a good opportunity to check in with your veterinarian about all of your pets’ dietary needs and make any necessary dietary changes. Keep in mind that sometimes pets will eat less during a diet transition phase. This is usually not cause for alarm. If you notice this, discuss it with your veterinarian. Being able to describe exactly how much your pet is eating will help your veterinarian to decide if your plan needs to change. If your pet absolutely refuses to eat the diet, your veterinarian can also advise you on what to do.

Feeding cats and dogs separately

If you are have problems with a cat and a dog trying to snack on each other’s food, try the different level approach, which is feeding your dog at floor level and your cat out of their reach. A reasonable degree of training of the dog may be required for this, and it will not work if your dog is determined to get into your cat’s food, even if it is placed supposedly out of their reach. Supervising your dog while they are eating can keep your cat from eating dog food (assuming your dog finishes her meal in one go and you remove any uneaten food promptly) but keeping a dog away from cat food can be harder, as cat food is often left out for your cat to graze on throughout the day. Consider fitting a cat flap to one of your internal doors, to provide a room or area that only your cat can access, thereby ensuring that whatever leaves your cat’s food bowl has definitely been eaten by your cat.

Feeding multiple dogs separately

Feeding more than one dog a different diet to the others, or keeping all of your dogs to their own bowl can be much easier than trying to get the same result with cats. Dogs tend to eat relatively quickly, and also, can generally be supervised when eating, and trained and instructed to leave things alone when told. If you find that one of your dogs is overly pushy with the others or you need to make sure that each dog eats exactly what is in their own bowl and no one else’s, try feeding your dogs in different rooms, to allow the slower dog or dogs to eat their meal without interruption. You might also consider setting up a row of hooks along the wall if your dogs must be fed side by side, and putting each dog on a lead while they eat, ensuring that they cannot reach the other dogs or bowls. If your problem arises from dominant behavior in one dog pushing another dog off their food, however, this solution may not prove effective, as the dominant dog may still be able to intimidate the other dog or dogs even if they cannot physically reach them.

Feeding multiple cats separately

Feeding two or more cats and ensuring that they each eat only their designated foodstuffs and don’t graze on the bowl provided for one of the others can be challenging. Cats are notoriously not amenable to training, and also, it is generally recommended to feed cats little and often rather than in big individual meals, which means that food is often left down throughout the day. Because of this, telling who has eaten what, which cat ate a pill or other medication placed in the food, or who is getting the benefit of a special diet can be a challenge.

If you have a fairly large house that your cats have split up into territories, with areas that one cat calls their own and the other does not go, you may be able to manage this by feeding each cat in their own space, providing that you are confident in your abilities to monitor your cat’s behavior. Remember, however, that a cat that is hungry or doesn’t like their food (if they are eating a special diet that is less tasty than the food the other cat has, for instance) will often go to great lengths to find food that they want to eat.

The norms of your household’s feeding structure may change as one cat goes in search of something else. You may be able to address this by placing a series of access-controlled cat flaps on some of your internal doors, such as microchip-activated cat flaps or infra-red key cat flaps. By doing this, you can block off a room or rooms and allow only one cat to get into it, and feed each cat in a separate room so that you can be certain who has eaten what is there, and that the cat has not been able to get into food from anywhere else in the house.

An alternative to this method of feeding multiple cats separately if you don’t have a large home and multiple rooms that you can block off, is to buy or construct a series of crates or boxes into which you can install an access-controlled cat flap a mentioned above. You can then feed each cat in their own box that they can come and go from as they please. The boxes or crates don’t have to be huge, although rather larger than a standard cat carrier is recommended, as cats don’t like to feel trapped, especially when eating. As with anything else, there are limitations to doing this. A cat that is not able to access the closed off area by means of a selectively locked cat flap might still be able to gain access if they follow the other cat in while the door is open, or entice the other cat close enough to the door to trigger the unlocking mechanism.

*There are several high tech solutions that work to solve the multi-pet feeding problem.  Microchip pet feeders and various types of selective pet feeders may be the answer to your problems.  They both work by a reader in the feeder unit that reads either a microchip or a collar piece/tag that is worn or embedded in (as in the microchip) in that particular pet.

SELECTIVE PET FEEDERS

This particular selective feeder, The WonderBowl, uses infrared technology to detect when your pet is near the food bowl. When the pet wearing the unique tag is in range, the lid will open, granting access only to the pet you choose.

 

Wireless Whiskers® AutoDiet™ Feeder

Wireless Whiskers® can be set up as a separate feeding station for each food type and allow or lock out specific pets as you wish. Each feeder allows you to independent set allowances for up to 8 pets.

Also, this Wireless Whiskers electronic Feeder is designed intelligently to help you track and monitor the diet of your pets. There’s a system in place that will inform you if they are not eating correctly, and this unit can be programmed to deliver meals once, 4 times or 24 meal intervals.

 

Microchip Pet Feeder

Mealtimes can be much less stressful by using a microchip activated feeder like the SureFeed Microchip Pet Feeder. This clever feeder recognizes a pet’s unique microchip number or RFID collar tag, so it will only open for them, and no other pet in the house. When the authorized pet approaches the feeder the lid slides open automatically to reveal the food, closing again when the pet has finished. This is an excellent solution if you have a fussy eater who likes to graze throughout the day. You can now leave food out without fear of your other pets eating it.

In this particular feeder, each bowl features an integrated seal that helps keep your pet’s food fresher for longer – keeping your house free of unwanted pet food smells and flies. It is suitable for both dogs and cats and you can use this feeder with wet and dry food. You can even personalize each pet’s feeder with different color bowls and mats.

Oct 23

Vestibular Disease In Dogs And Cats

Vestibular Disease in Dogs and Cats

Vestibular disease affects both dogs and cats, and when it happens it can look very scary. The important thing to remember is that although the symptoms of vestibular disease look very similar to stroke these are entirely different conditions.

Unlike stroke, which is caused by an interruption of blood flow to the brain, vestibular disease is caused by a malfunction in the mechanisms of the inner ear. Although stroke can cause permanent damage to the brain, vestibular disease does not.

Vestibular disease is essentially a sudden disturbance of balance. It’s very common in cats, and in dogs it’s often referred to as “old dog vestibular syndrome”. Although it’s more often found in older dogs and cats, all ages can be affected.

But to really understand how vestibular disease affects the body, it’s important to know how the vestibular system works.

The Vital Vestibular System

Our body’s vestibular system is responsible for maintaining normal balance and keeping us in an upright position without falling over. According to Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine, the vestibular system is made up of 2 parts: the vestibular apparatus (located deep within the inner ear), and a second component located in the medulla, an area of the brain located at the base of the skull.

Inside the vestibular apparatus are fluid-filled canals filled with specialized nerve cells and receptors. These receptors are connected to nerves that lead directly to the medulla. As our heads change position, the fluid in these canals shifts and sends signals to the brain, which registers the position of our heads relative to gravity. This tells our brains whether we are motionless or moving, and if so, in what direction.

Just like us, dogs and cats maintain their sense of balance because the vestibular system can adjust for changes in position. Whenever an animal turns, signals are sent from his brain to the muscles on one side of his body telling them to make adjustments – and it’s this communication that prevents him from tipping over.

What Causes Vestibular Disease?

Vestibular disease can result from a variety of factors:

  • Inflammation of the vestibular nerve located in the inner ear
  • Middle ear infections (caused by bacteria or ear mites)
  • Head trauma or injury to the ear
  • Underactive thyroid gland (hypothyroidism)
  • Adverse reaction to certain types of antibiotics (including streptomycin, gentamicin, or metronidazole) or ear flushes containing chlorhexidine (an over-the-counter antiseptic)
  • Genetic or inherited factors
  • Thiamin (Vitamin B1) deficiency
  • Polyps (small growths) or cysts in the middle ear
  • Brain tumors

However, most cases of vestibular disease are considered “idiopathic”, which means that no identifiable cause is ever found.

Symptoms of Vestibular Disease

Vestibular disease symptoms tend to come on very suddenly. They can include:

  • Head tilt
  • Dizziness
  • Loss of balance and falling over to one side (usually in the direction of the head tilt)
  • Disorientation
  • Ataxia (lack of coordination – stumbling, staggering, wobbling)
  • Standing with legs apart in a wide stance
  • Head shaking
  • Nausea
  • Vomiting
  • Rolling on the floor or walking in circles
  • Inability to stand
  • Repetitive, involuntary drifting eye movements (“nystagmus”) Please see video below.
  • Reluctance to eat and drink
  • Anxiety
  • Panting
  • Avoidance of people or other pets

Diagnosis

It’s important to differentiate between vestibular disease, stroke, and brain tumor, as they can all cause similar symptoms. A veterinarian will usually diagnose vestibular disease based on symptoms, blood and urine tests, and an examination of the ears. Stroke and brain tumor can be definitively ruled out with the use of magnetic resonance imaging (MRI), or computed tomography(CT) scans.

If symptoms do not begin to resolve in a few days, the veterinarian may recommend a visit to a veterinary neurologist for a spinal tap, which is helpful to rule out infections.

Treatment For Vestibular Disease

If vestibular disease symptoms have a known cause (such as hypothyroidism, injury, or infection), specific treatment will be started to help resolve that particular condition. However, if no other cause is found and the case is considered idiopathic, unfortunately the only effective treatment is time and supportive care.

In severe cases, if the dog or cat is extremely disoriented, sedatives and anti-nausea medication can be administered. If the patient can’t hold down food or water, he or she may need to be hospitalized for a few days so intravenous (IV) fluids can be given.

Vestibular disease in dogs and cats is usually best treated at home, where they will be less stressed. Keeping them in a quiet place, and as comfortable and still as possible, goes a long way in the recovery process.

If your dog or cat is diagnosed with vestibular disease, you can also help assist in their recovery by:

  • Giving them time and space. Vestibular disease is not life-threatening, so although the symptoms may be upsetting, they will often start resolving on their own within a few days.
  • Keeping your own stress to a minimum. Since pets are sensitive to the moods of others, keeping your own stress level low will keep your pet from being startled or upset.
  • Providing good lighting. This enables your pet to better use visual cues to determine proprioception (where his body is positioned in space).
  • Creating proprioceptive support ( awareness of the position of one’s body.) You can do this by taking a long, thick blanket, rolling it up jellyroll-style, and snuggling it around your pet in a C-shape to provide something for him to press his body against.
  • Not carrying your pet around. Since touch sensors in your pet’s paws need to be activated by touching the ground, carrying your pet can make him feel more dizzy and disoriented. Instead, help him learn to walk steadily again by putting your hands on both sides of his body as he walks.
  • Hand feeding may be necessary. It may be difficult for your pet to focus and balance enough to eat his food from his bowl, so you may need to hand feed until his balance improves.  This may also hold true for water for your pet. You may need to hold the bowl up to his mouth so that he can drink.

Most patients recover from vestibular disease on their own in about 2-3 weeks, and in most cases, it never comes back. The head tilt is usually the last symptom to resolve, but occasionally it may not fully go away. However, this will not interfere with the dog or cat’s quality of life.

The Mystery of Vestibular Disease

A healthy vestibular system is vital to well-being, for us as well as for our dogs and cats. Without it, we wouldn’t be able to recognize where we are in space, maintain our balance, have good vision, or walk without falling over.

When the vestibular system malfunctions, it can be both frightening and frustrating, especially if there doesn’t appear to be any cause. But the good news is, vestibular disease in dogs and cats usually resolves just as suddenly as it appeared, with no lasting permanent damage. However, if your pet begins to exhibit any of the symptoms of vestibular disease, always take him to your veterinarian to rule out other potentially more serious causes.

*Note: My Betsy had vestibular disease when she was 12, and it was very frightening because I didn’t know what was happening to her.  In taking her to our vet for a thorough exam, it was all explained.  Although I was relieved that it was something that would be temporary, it was so difficult to see her suffering with it.  The best I could do was to support her on either side when she walked so that she wouldn’t fall, and to “nest” her in soft blankets all around her when she was resting.  I had to hand-feed her for a short time until the vertigo lessened a bit, and I gave her “**Betsy’s Chicken Water” (see tip at bottom of the page) because she didn’t feel well enough to drink water.  It finally passed in about 3 weeks, and we were both very thankful that it was over!

 

Oct 16

Adopting An Adult Or Senior Cat

Adopting An Adult Or Senior Cat

If you are thinking about adopting a kitten from a shelter or rescue organization, please consider adopting an adult or senior cat.  When cared for properly, cats can live well into their late teens and sometimes early twenties.  Typically, they will remain active and playful throughout most of their lives.

Some may need a little patience from you while adjusting to a new home, but once they feel safe, secure, and loved, they will give you years of faithful companionship and unconditional love.

Here are more very good reasons why you should adopt a senior cat:

Less Maintenance

Adopting a mature cat is less maintenance because you don’t have to go through the demanding and time-consuming stage of raising and training a kitten.

Adult cats require less supervision and attention. They are independent and do not need anyone home with them during the day.  This is perfect for employed, busy, or active people.

Already Litter Box And Scratching Post Trained

Older cats are already litter-box trained and are more likely to have basic training.  They understand the purpose of their litter box and usually cooperate with your efforts to keep it tidy.

Senior cats also know that scratching posts (not furniture or curtains) are for scratching, and toys (not hands and feet) are for biting.

A Quiet, Relaxed Companion With Household Etiquette                            

Senior cats are content to just relax in your company and do not get into mischief because they are bored, as kittens are prone to do. They already have well-developed manners and know how to be a good companion and also a good patient when a visit to the vet is needed.

Basic Health Needs

Older cats are more likely to have already been spayed, neutered, micro-chipped and fully vaccinated. That means substantial savings for you on the basic health needs for your kitty!

They Already Know How To Self-Groom

Few kittens have mastered the art of self-grooming and are just too busy enjoying life to clean themselves properly. When you consider that kittens are really just dust mops with legs who display marginal litter box etiquette, you can truly appreciate the older cat who knows how to groom herself and keep her fur clean.

What You See Is What You Get                                                                                      

When you adopt a senior cat, you already know their full-grown size and personality, or temperament. You will have no unpleasant surprises as your cat ages.

A Thankful Attitude

When senior cats are adopted, they seem to understand that they’ve been rescued.  They are all the more thankful for it.  Also, they understand the concept of approval and reward, and they are eager to please their owners.

No Kitten Mischief or Kitten-Proofing Your House

You don’t have to worry about chewing, climbing, or any of the destructive behavior that kittens innocently display as they explore their surroundings.  Adult cats sleep more, play less, and require less supervision.

A Better Choice For Homes With Children Or For Seniors

Older cats are less rambunctious than kittens and may be a better choice for homes with small children or for senior citizens. Kittens are all teeth and claws, but generally speaking, older cats are more mellow and often more patient with young children.  When you are at the shelter to adopt a cat, ask to meet the shelter’s cats that are best with children.

Regarding older cats and the elderly, it is a perfect match because the cat is calm, relaxed, and very low maintenance. And, speaking of relaxing, adult or senior cats make great napping buddies!

An adult cat can help ease loneliness for an older person. Studies indicate that living with a pet can help lower both blood pressure and cholesterol.  If space is a consideration, cats do very well in smaller environments.

You May Be Their Last Chance

Many times, adult cats end up in shelters through no fault of their own, and sadly, people gravitate toward the adorable, big-eyed kittens when adopting.

Adult cats may have simply outlived their former owner or been unable to join them at a hospital, nursing home, or new apartment.  Some cats get lost and end up at a shelter and are never claimed by their owner.  It’s unfair to judge these adult or senior cats for being where they are, and it is to your advantage to meet them, adopt them, and give them a chance for a happy rest of their lives.

For many abandoned, forgotten, and heartbroken senior cats, you just might be their last chance to have the love and warmth of a home where they can live out their years in comfort.

Senior and adult cats are some of the hardest to find homes for, so when you adopt a senior cat, you are truly saving a life. Image result for cat with heart gif

 

Oct 09

Benefits Of Bully Sticks For Dogs

The Benefits of Bully Sticks for Dogs

Bully sticks for dogs are also called steer sticks, beef sticks and pizzle sticks. They’re made from bull penises, though they’re often marketed as dried muscles. They come in various styles, lengths and widths to suit any dog’s chew toy needs, and since they contain 100% beef, they’re safe and healthy for your dog to eat.

Was that a collective and resounding “yuck” that echoed out? Before you start feeling ill at the thought of having handled a dried bull’s private parts when playing with your dog, it’s important to clarify one thing here- most chewy toys are made from the left over bits of body parts and internal organs after meat suitable for human consumption is removed.

Bully sticks are safer for dogs than rawhide and other treats, because they’re all natural and free of dyes, chemicals and pesticides. They’re easy for your dog to digest, and their manufacture is monitored by the USDA, which ensures the quality of the ingredients.

Bully sticks are a great way to help maintain your dog’s oral hygiene and health. They can prevent the build up of plaque and tartar on the teeth, and help to stop the formation of cavities. Bully stick chew toys for dogs can help prevent periodontal disease and gingivitis, both of which can cause not only oral pain, inflammation and tooth decay, but can also lead to chronic and life-threatening disease in the heart, liver, kidney and joints when bacteria spread from the mouth throughout the rest of the body.

Bully sticks are also a great way to help your dog relieve stress by chewing. Bully sticks last longer than other chews, and they have a long shelf life.

Natural Dog Teeth Cleaning

Dog dental care is crucial. The biggest health benefit of chewing Bully Sticks for your dog is the maintenance of their dental health. The mechanical action of chewing works to strengthen your dog’s teeth and can also reduce the amount of tartar and plaque buildup. In some instances, chewing on Bully Bones can even stop cavities from forming, prevent gingivitis, and they work to prevent other periodontal diseases.

Remember that Bully Sticks are an important part of a dog’s dental health maintenance and should be used in addition to brushing a dog’s teeth. Clean teeth lead to a healthy dog, which leads to a happy human.

High Protein, Low Fat

Since Bully Sticks are a 100% beef treat, they are incredibly high in protein. Dogs are technically omnivores, but they are descended from wolves. Which means that their ancestral diet involved eating large amounts of animal protein. The protein content of Bully Sticks helps them mimic this diet.

“High protein means high fat then, right?” Nope! Bully Sticks are low in fat. This combination of high protein and low fat make them a healthy chew option for dogs with weight problems. That doesn’t mean you can give them endless Bully Sticks in a day though (although we’re sure your dog would love that). Be sure to continue limiting their caloric intake and feed Bully Sticks as treats, not meals.

100% Digestible

Since Bully Sticks are made with a single ingredient, beef pizzle, they are a 100% beef dog treat. Being made with only beef muscle means that they are a natural treat that is completely digestible. Bully Sticks do not cause blockages in a dog’s stomach; they get completely broken down.

The beef hide in rawhide, for example, can be difficult to digest for some dogs. Bully sticks, on the other hand, are highly digestible, which means that they break down easily in your dog’s stomach. They also don’t splinter like other treats, so you don’t have to worry about broken off pieces causing any internal injuries.

In addition to their high digestibility, bully sticks are a tasty, single-ingredient treat. Only made from high-protein beef muscle, bully sticks are ideal for your dog because beef is a complete source of amino acids, which support your dog’s muscles, brain, skin, and coat. If your dog has any allergy or sensitivity, bully sticks are a great chew option, as they are free from artificial chemicals, additives, and preservatives.

What are the Best Brands of Bully Sticks for Dogs?

Be sure to purchase bully sticks that are made in the USA or in South America. Both areas produce some of the highest quality beef ingredients in the world. Try to avoid countries like China, India, or others where quality can’t be guaranteed. Secondly, look for a natural product that is made from free-range, grass-fed cattle. If you follow those guidelines, you should find a product that is both safe and healthy for your dog.

They’re Diverse and Good For All Dogs

Not only are bully sticks healthy treats, but more importantly, dogs love them! Dogs of any breed, age, or size can enjoy chewing on a bully stick. They’re even perfect for puppies, as long as your puppy can chew hard food/treats on his own. Bully sticks provide the same high protein and dental health benefits for puppies as they do for adult dogs.

Moreover, bully sticks are diverse and perfect for whatever preferences your dog has. You can find a bully stick that caters to your dog. The sticks have different thicknesses, sizes, and shapes. If your dog is an aggressive, intense chewer, try a braided bully stick. Does he take a long time to chew? Straight sticks are a great choice. If you need to challenge your dog, shaped bullys, like bully rings, provide a puzzle for your dog as he chews.

Bully sticks are long lasting, in more than one way. They can last a long time while your dog is chewing them, and they also stay fresh for up to three years.

 

 

 

 

 

Sep 25

Protecting Your Dog Against Osteoarthritis

Protecting Your Dog Against Osteoarthritis

There are a few things you can do to help your dog’s body protect itself against canine osteoarthritis, which occurs as a result of age, injury or obesity. The best time to start taking care of your dog’s joint health is today – right now.

1.  Find your dog’s healthy weight, and maintain it

One of the most critical aspects of the prevention of arthritis is maintaining a healthy weight for your dog. Excess weight puts unnecessary pressure on joints. In addition, the problem is circular. Increased weight leads to increased joint pain. Increased joint pain leads to less activity, which leads to even more weight gain. Don’t let your precious pup get stuck in this vicious cycle!

2.  Don’t over-exercise your pup

Regular exercise can help your dog maintain a healthy weight, but don’t overdo it! Too much exercise increases the wear and tear on your dog’s joints, and heightens the risk for injury. Injuries, even seemingly minor injuries, can weaken and harm joints in the long term.

Talk to your vet about the appropriate amount of exercise recommended for your dog’s breed and age to make sure you don’t overdo it.

3.  Get your pup swimming                             

It’s been proven that taking your dog for a swim can be therapeutic for her joints. Doggy patients suffering from advanced arthritis can use aquatic therapy to exercise without putting pressure on painful joints.

Swimming is a form of exercise that improves cardiovascular health and burns fat, with a reduced risk of injury due to the gentle nature of the activity. So get your pup in a pool and watch her have a blast while improving her health.

4.  Feed quality, nutrient-rich food

One of the most effective ways to positively impact your dog’s health is to feed him nutritious, wholesome food. You should feed your pup as much all-natural food as possible. There are many different schools of thought on the proper canine diet. Your dog needs to eat a diet that is species-appropriate and nutritionally balanced. Dogs are carnivores, so carb-based diets, even those marketed by pet food companies as “weight management” or low fat, are not what your pet should be eating. Also, carbs promote inflammation and are the last thing your pet with an inflammatory joint problem needs.

Remember:
  • The amount of food that you feed your dog will be based on its size and activity levels.
  • Older dogs may not need to eat as much as younger dogs.
  • Exactly how much you need to feed your dog will be unique to your specific dog. Talk with your veterinarian to learn more.

Some dog parents find themselves considering a raw food diet for its many benefits, or at least incorporating raw foods into their dog’s diet. Dogs’ digestive systems can tolerate raw meats, unlike ours, and may cope better with, if not extract more nutrition from that food source, compared with cooked meats. That nutrition boost provides a dog’s body with more resources for maintaining healthy joints and the right type of energy to ward off obesity and injury.

5.  Give your dog joint supplements

The easiest thing you can do to help your dog’s body bolster itself against arthritis is to provide your pup with a joint supplement. A supplement provides your pooch’s body with the specific nutrition it needs to build up and maintain the ligaments and cartilage that get worn away causing arthritis. Reinforcing the joints in this way can prevent injury, as well. Early injuries in a pet’s life can trigger arthritis later down the road. That’s why you need to make sure your pup’s body has all the resources necessary to grow and maintain its joint function.

Adding certain supplements to your pet’s diet can provide the raw materials for cartilage repair and maintenance, among them:

  • Glucosamine sulfate with MSM
  • Ubiquinol
  • Fatty acids, such as Omega-3 fatty acid
  • Natural anti-inflammatory formulas (herbs, proteolytic enzymes and nutraceuticals)

You can try a veterinarian recommended brand like Osteo-Pet® Glucosamine Chondroitin Supplements for Dogs that has an established reputation and a proven track record.

Also, there are many other quality brand supplements, which include Glucosamine HCI, MSM, Chondroitin, Organic Turmeric and other vital nutrients that help your dog’s body rebuild cartilage, reduce inflammation and maintain overall joint health.

Keep an eye out for symptoms. Arthritis is a condition that is best treated early on. Since it cannot be cured, arthritis will need to be managed and prevented from worsening. Catching the symptoms of arthritis early on can go a long way in keeping your dog comfortable later in life, and preventing it altogether is the best way to ensure your pup’s maximum health . Check out some of these common symptoms of arthritis in dogs to help you in identifying any arthritis trouble in your dog:

  • Stiffness
  • Dragging an arm or leg or using some limbs more than others
  • Signs of pain
  • Inflexible joints
  • Being nervous about jumping up or climbing down stairs or steps