Sep 11

The Best Way To Introduce A Dog To A Cat

The Best Way To Introduce A Dog And Cat

 

Whether you already have a dog and are considering getting a cat, or vice versa, it is very important to think about their first introduction. By letting a loose cat and an off-leash dog meet each other in an open room for the first time, you are probably setting up both animals to fail. Instead, plan ahead and take your time.

Matching Cats and Dogs

If you’re thinking of getting a cat for your dog or a dog for your cat, it’s important to consider both animals’ personalities. It may be helpful to look for a companion that has already been exposed to the other species in the past.

If a dog attempts to aggressively chase, pin, pick up or otherwise “manhandle” any cat, it is best to not even consider getting a cat — or to at least to proceed with caution. Additionally, a dog who growls, lunges at or obsessively barks at a cat would probably do best in a cat-free environment. Likewise, a cat who growls, swats at, runs from or hides from dogs would probably prefer to not live with a dog.

If a dog loves chasing things, then a fearful, shy cat who runs away probably wouldn’t be the best choice, as it could trigger the dog to chase. Similarly, an energetic cat who runs and pounces would fall into this same category. A better match here would be a calm, confident cat who will not run (either in fear or play).

If a dog plays roughly, it is best to avoid kittens or elderly cats who can easily be hurt. Instead, stick to playful adults who are interested in play, but are also confident enough to take care of themselves. If a cat is rambunctious or playful, a dog that is playful, but gentle, could be a great option.

If a dog or cat is elderly, laid back, quiet or anxious, then a calm counterpart would be best. Avoid rambunctious companions who may annoy, frighten or otherwise bother the other pet.

The Introduction Process

Regardless of whether you are getting a new cat or a new dog, the first introduction between your current pet and your new pet is a very important part of the process. Here are four steps that can help you ensure a successful meeting:

Step 1: Choose the proper location for the first meeting

Resident cat to new dog: If you are adopting a dog, you should not take your cat to meet him at a shelter, or other establishment which houses a number of animals for health and safety reasons. Instead, the introduction should take place at home.
Resident dog to new cat: If you are adopting a cat, do not take your dog into a shelter and expose him to the cats, as this can be highly stressful or traumatic for all of the cats. Also, it is not necessarily a good indicator of how the dog will react at home. Instead, ask the shelter’s adoption counselors whether they have any dog-savvy, confident cats they will allow to meet your dog under controlled conditions. If this is not possible, an alternative would be to have your dog meet a dog-savvy cat who belongs to a friend or relative. As a last resort, you can bring your new kitty home and do an introduction at home.

Step 2: Separate the animals

Across a few days, rotate which animal has freedom and which is confined to allow each animal plenty of time to investigate the other one’s scent.

Sometimes the dog should be confined to a crate or another room (or taken to another location if he can’t be left alone) to allow the cat time to roam free and investigate the smell of the dog.

If the dog obsessively digs at the crate or door, or barks at the cat for more than a day or two, the interaction likely won’t work without proper training. You may need the help of a professional.

When no one is home, the dog or cat must always be securely confined so unsupervised interactions are not possible.

Once the dog is calm (or at least not obsessed with the cat) and the cat is calm, eating, and using the litter box normally, you can proceed to the next step.

Step 3: Make leashed introductions

Allow both animals to be in the same room at the same time, but keep the dog securely leashed.
Continue with this type of introduction until the dog is calm and ignores the cat, and the cat is calm, eating, and using the litter box normally.

If there is any fear or aggression displayed on either animal’s part, stay at step 2 longer.
Continue indefinitely until both the dog and cat seem happy and relaxed around each other.
When no one is home, the dog or cat should be securely confined to separate areas so unsupervised interactions are not possible.

Step 4: Allow unsupervised interactions

Unsupervised time together can occur after the cat and dog have been supervised around each other for a significant period of time (a month or so) and you are positive they will not hurt each other.

Training Tip:

If the dog stares at the cat or the door separating the cat, try to distract him and get him to look away with treats, a happy voice or by gently guiding the dog away on a leash. Once the dog is away from the cat, try offering a treat. If he takes it, repeat this process until he is no longer focused on the cat or door.

Warning Signs

If the dog remains overly focused, does not take his eyes off the cat or the door, completely ignores you or lunges suddenly as soon as the cat moves, this is probably a dangerous match. If you are looking for a dog for your resident cat, try another dog. If this is your dog (the resident dog), you should probably not get him a cat.

If at any time the dog lunges toward, growls, snaps at or shows any aggression toward a calm, quiet, still cat, this match will probably not work out. The same holds true if a cat attacks a calm, quiet dog. If you are committed to make the relationship work, you will probably need a professional at this point.

If you are looking for a cat for your dog, and your dog displays questionable behavior around a cat who is growling, hissing and swatting, try again with another, calmer cat. If he continues to display questionable behavior around multiple cats, he probably should not live with cats.

If it is your cat who is growling, hissing or swatting, give the cat a break and try again on another day. You might also need to try a different dog. A cat who continually hisses and growls at all types of dogs will likely not want to live with dogs. Your cat may tolerate a dog, but she probably won’t be happy — which is an unfair situation for her.

If the cat stops eating, drinking, using the litter box or visiting with family members, she is not happy. You might want to consider finding a better match or contacting a professional animal behaviorist for advice.

It’s not uncommon for dogs and cats to become friends and to enjoy each other’s company. Take the time to manage the introduction process properly, and you could be setting up a friendship that will last for the rest of your pets’ lives.

Aug 31

CPR For Dogs And Cats

CPR FOR PETS

Do you know what to do if your pet stops breathing? Knowing a few emergency procedures if your dog or cat is choking, or having difficulty breathing, could save your pet’s life because you may not have time to get to a vet.  Here are the steps for doing CPR on a dog and cat.

CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation) preserves brain function until proper blood circulation and breathing can be restored.

The signs that indicate the need for CPR include unconsciousness, lack of arousal, lack of physical movement, or eye blinking. These symptoms can occur from drowning, choking, electrical shock, or a number of other situations.

If your pet has a foreign object stuck in his throat, it is important to try and dislodge it before performing CPR.

Performing mouth-to-snout resuscitation

  • Perform 100-120 chest compressions per minute
  • Perform a compression to mouth-to-snout ventilation ratio of 30 compressions followed by 2 breaths
  • Perform cardiac massage / chest compressions according to the different chest types and sizes of dogs (shown in diagrams below).

The key to CPR is remembering the ABCs:

Airway,
Breathing, and
Cardiac compression.

To perform the three techniques, follow these steps:

1. Lay the dog on a flat surface and extend the head back to create an airway. Current practices recommend laying the dog on his right side (heart facing up), however the latest recommended guidelines state that either the left or right side is acceptable.

2. Open the jaws to check for obstructions, and if any exist and are not easily removed, try to dislodge the object.

3. Cup your hands around the muzzle of the dog’s mouth so that only the nostrils are clear. Blow air into the nostrils with five or six quick breaths, again, depending on the size of the dog. Small dogs and puppies and require short and shallow breaths. Larger dogs need longer and deeper breaths. Continue the quick breaths at a rate of one breath every three seconds or 20 breaths per minute.

4. Check for a heartbeat by using your finger on the inside of the thigh, just above the knee. If you don’t feel a pulse, put your hand over the dog’s chest cavity where the elbow touches the middle of the chest. If you still don’t find a pulse, have one person continue breathing into the nostrils (mouth to snout), while another gives chest compressions / cardiac massage. If you are alone, do the compression and mouth-to-snout ventilation yourself.

5. Give the dog chest compressions (cardiac massage) by placing both hands palms down on the chest cavity of the dog. For most dogs, chest compressions can be performed on the widest part of the chest while the dog is lying on his side.

  • For dogs with keel-shaped chests (i.e. deep, narrow chests) in breeds such as greyhounds push down closer to the dog’s armpit, directly over the heart.
  • For dogs with barrel-chested dogs like English bulldogs lay the dog on its back and compress on the sternum (directly over the heart), like people.
  • For smaller dogs and cats chest-compressions scan be done with one hand wrapped around the sternum, encircling the heart or two-handed on the ribs.
  • For large dogs, place your hands on top of each other.
  • For tiny dogs or puppies, place one hand or thumb on the chest.

6. Use the heel of your hand(s) to push down for 30 quick compressions followed by 2 breaths of air (ventilation) and then check to see if consciousness has been restored. If consciousness has not been restored, continue the compressions in cycles of 100 to 120 chest compressions per minute (the same rhythm administered for people).  For help with the rhythm of the compressions, think of the song “Stayin Alive” by the Bee Gees, or “Another One Bites The Dust” by Queen.  Use that beat or rhythm in applying your compressions.

7. Perform CPR in 2-minute cycles checking to see if breathing and consciousness has been restored.

Ideally, CPR should be performed while on route to emergency veterinarian care. If this is not possible, contact a veterinarian once the dog has started breathing.

The following diagrams illustrate how to perform chest compressions on dogs with different chest types.

Figure (A) illustrates the technique for most dogs. You can apply chest compressions to the widest part of the chest while the dog lies on its side.

Figure (B) illustrates the technique for dogs with keel-shaped chests.

Figure (C) illustrates the technique for barrel-chested dogs.

For small dogs and cats, chest compressions can be administered two ways.

Figure (A) illustrates wrapping one hand around the sternum while supporting the back.

Figure (B) illustrates two-handed compression.

Below is a helpful video on administering CPR on dogs and cats.

Preparing for Emergencies in Advance Can Save Your Pet’s Life

Ii is recommended that all pet parents become familiar with the CPR guidelines now, before your dog or cat needs them. When an emergency occurs, you won’t have time to start reading through the instructions, and you’ll likely be shaken and possibly panicked.

If you already have a firm grasp on how to perform CPR, you can move right into action, preferably in a car while someone drives you and your pet to an emergency animal hospital. You should not, however, practice CPR on a healthy dog, as this can lead to injury.

Unfortunately, many people feel helpless when they are faced with an injured or unconscious dog or cat. Without the knowledge of the simple steps of CPR or the basic understanding of pet first aid, you may lose the chance to rescue your most vulnerable member of the family. Take the time to show your pets how much you love them and learn how to perform CPR on your best friend.

Aug 22

Providing For Your Pet’s Future Without You

Protect Your Pet’s Future

Because pets usually have shorter life spans than their human caregivers, you may have planned for your animal friend’s passing. But what if you are the one who becomes ill or incapacitated, or who dies first? As a responsible pet owner, you provide your pet with food and water, shelter, veterinary care, and love. To ensure that your beloved pet will continue to receive this care should something unexpected happen to you, it’s critical to plan ahead.

What can I do now to prepare for the unexpected?

In the confusion that accompanies a person’s unexpected illness, accident, or death, pets may be overlooked. In some cases, pets are discovered in the person’s home days after the tragedy. To prevent this from happening to your pet, take these simple precautions:

  • Find at least two responsible friends or relatives who agree to serve as temporary emergency caregivers in the event that something unexpected happens to you. Provide them with keys to your home; feeding and care instructions; the name of your veterinarian; and information about the permanent care provisions you have made for your pet.
  • Make sure your neighbors, friends, and relatives know how many pets you have and the names and contact numbers of the individuals who have agreed to serve as emergency caregivers. Emergency caregivers should also know how to contact each other.
  • Carry a wallet “alert card” that lists the names and phone numbers of your emergency pet caregivers.
  • Post removable “in case of emergency” notices on your doors or windows specifying how many and what types of pets you have. These notices will alert emergency-response personnel during a fire or other home emergency. Don’t use stickers; hard-to-remove stickers are often left behind by former residents, so firefighters may assume that the sticker is outdated or, worse, they may risk their lives trying to find a pet no longer in the house.
  • Affix to the inside of your front and back doors a removable notice listing emergency contact names and phone numbers. Because pets need care daily and will need immediate attention should you die or become incapacitated, the importance of making these informal arrangements for temporary care giving cannot be overemphasized.
How do I choose a permanent caregiver?

First, decide whether you want all of your pets to go to one person, or whether different pets should go to different people. If possible, keep pets who have bonded with one another together. When selecting caregivers, consider partners, adult children, parents, brothers, sisters, and friends who have met your pet and have successfully cared for pets themselves.

Also, be sure to name alternate caregivers in case your first choice becomes unable or unwilling to take your pet. Be sure to discuss your expectations with potential caregivers so they understand the significant responsibility of caring for your pet. Remember, the new owner will have full discretion over the animal’s care—including veterinary treatment and euthanasia—so make sure you choose a person you trust implicitly and who will do what is in the best interests of your pet. Stay in touch with the designated caregivers and alternates.

How can I ensure long-term or permanent care for my pet if I become seriously ill or die?

The best way to make sure your wishes are fulfilled is by also making formal arrangements that specifically cover the care of your pet. It’s not enough that long ago your friend verbally promised to take in your animal or even that you’ve decided to leave money to your friend for that purpose. Work with an attorney to draw up a special will, trust, or other document to provide for the care and ownership of your pet as well as the money necessary to care for her.

Do I need legal assistance?

Before making formal arrangements to provide for the long-term care of your pet, seek help from professionals who can guide you in preparing legal documents that can protect your interests and those of your pet. However, you must keep in mind the critical importance of making advance personal arrangements to ensure that your pet is cared for immediately if you die or become incapacitated. The formalities of a will or trust may not take over for some time.

Is a will the best way to provide for my pet?

Although your lawyer will help you decide what type of document best suits your needs, you should be aware of some drawbacks to wills. For example, a will takes effect only upon your death, and it will not be probated and formally recognized by a court for days or even weeks later. And, if legal disputes arise, the final settlement of your property may be prolonged. Even determining the rightful new owner of your pet can get delayed. In other words, it may take a long time before your instructions regarding your pet’s long-term care can be carried out.

This doesn’t necessarily mean that you should not include a provision in your will that provides for your pet. It just means that you should explore creating additional documents that compensate for the will’s limitations.

How can setting up a trust help?

Click on photo to see detail of Pet Trusts info

Unlike a will, a trust can provide for your pet immediately and can apply not only if you die, but also if you become ill or incapacitated. That’s because you determine when your trust becomes effective. When you create a trust for your pet, you set aside money to be used for his care and you specify a trustee to control the funds.

A trust created separately from the will carries certain benefits:

  • It can be written to exclude certain assets from the probate process so that funds are more readily available to care for your pet.
  • It can be structured to provide for your pet even during a lengthy disability.
Which is right for me—a will or a trust?

There are many types of wills and trusts; determining which is best for you and your pet depends on your situation and needs. It’s important to seek the advice of an attorney who both understands your desire to provide for your pet and can help you create a will and/or trust that best provides for him.

You and your attorney also need to make sure that a trust for the benefit of one or more specific animals is valid and enforceable in your state. Even if your state law recognizes the validity of such trusts, keep in mind that tying up a substantial amount of money or property in a trust for an animal’s benefit may prove to be controversial from the point of view of a relative or other heir. Also, trusts are legal entities that are relatively expensive to administer and maintain, all of which underscores the need for careful planning and legal advice. After you and your lawyer create a will, a trust, or both, leave copies with the person you’ve chosen to be executor of your estate as well as with the pet’s designated caregiver so that he or she can look after your pet immediately. (The executor and caregiver may or may not be the same person.) Make sure the caregiver also has copies of your pet’s veterinary records and information about her behavior traits and dietary preferences.

Consider a Power of Attorney

Powers of attorney, which authorize someone else to conduct some or all of your affairs for you while you are alive, have become a standard planning device. Such documents can be written to take effect upon your physical or mental incapacity and to continue in effect after you become incapacitated. They are simpler than trusts and do not create a legal entity that needs to be maintained by formal means. Provisions can be inserted in powers of attorney authorizing your attorney-in-fact (the person designated to handle your affairs) to take care of your pets, dispense money to do so, and even to place your pets with permanent caregivers if appropriate.

Like any other legal device, however, powers of attorney are documents that by themselves cannot ensure that your pet is fed, walked, medicated, or otherwise cared for daily. Legal devices can only complement your personal efforts in thinking ahead and finding temporary and permanent caregivers who can take over your pet’s care immediately when the need arises. It is critical to coordinate, with more formal legal planning, your own efforts in finding substitute caregivers.

Can I entrust the care of my pet to an organization?

Most humane organizations do not have the space or funds to care for your pet indefinitely and cannot guarantee that someone will adopt your animal, although some may be able to board and care for your pet temporarily until he can be transferred to his designated caregiver. There are, however, a few organizations that specialize in long-term care of pets of deceased owners. For a fee or donation, these “pet retirement homes” or “sanctuaries” may agree to find your pet a new home or care for your pet until she dies. Be aware, however, that pets are companion animals who need lots of care and affection; they may suffer from long-term confinement in such facilities. Your pet will not want to be institutionalized any more than you would want to be. Before making any formal arrangements, visit the organization to see how animals are cared for; where they are confined; who looks after them; when they are socialized and exercised; and what policies and procedures exist regarding care at the facility and placement with a new family. Also consider what might happen to your pet if the organization were to suffer funding or staff shortages. If you decide to entrust the care of your pet to an organization, choose a well established organization that has a good record of finding responsible homes quickly.

If all else fails, it is also possible to direct your executor or personal representative, in your will, to place the animal with another individual or family (that is, in a non-institutionalized setting). Finding a satisfactory new home can take several weeks of searching, so again, it is important to line up temporary care.

You also need to know and trust your executor and provide useful, but not unrealistic or confining instructions in your will. You should also authorize your executor to use funds from your estate for the temporary care of your pet as well as for the costs of looking for a new home and transporting the animal to it.

The will should also grant broad discretion to your executor in making decisions about the animal and in expending estate funds on the animal’s behalf.

Sample:

{Article Number} A. As a matter of high priority and importance, I direct my Personal Representative to place any and all animals I may own at the time of my death with another individual or family (that is, in a private, non-institutionalized setting) where such animals will be cared for in a manner that any responsible, devoted pet owner would afford to his or her pets. Prior to initiating such efforts to place my animals, I direct my Personal Representative to consult ______________________, D.V.M. (currently at the _______________________ Hospital), or, in the event of Dr. _____________’s unavailability, a veterinarian chosen by my Personal Representative, to ensure that each animal is in generally good health and is not suffering physically. In addition, I direct my Personal Representative to provide any needed, reasonable veterinary care that my animal(s) may need at that time to restore the animal(s) to generally good health and to alleviate suffering, if possible. Any animal(s) not in generally good health or who is so suffering—and whose care is beyond the capabilities of veterinary medicine, reasonably employed, to restore to generally good health or to alleviate suffering—shall be euthanized, cremated, and the ashes disposed of at the discretion of my Personal Representative. Any expenses incurred for the care (including the costs of veterinary services), placement, or transportation of my animals, or to otherwise effect the purposes of this Article ___________ up to the time of placement, shall be charged against the principal of my residuary estate. Decisions my Personal Representative makes under this Article ___________________—for example, with respect to the veterinary care to be afforded to my animal(s) and the costs of such care— shall be final. My intention is that my Personal Representative have the broadest possible discretion to carry out the purposes of this paragraph.

No one can know the future. Even the youngest or healthiest of us are vulnerable to accidents. A little planning can provide some peace of mind, knowing that whatever happens to you, your pets will be just fine.

 

 

 

Aug 09

Cats And Catnip

Cats And Catnip

Catnip, catmint, catwort, field balm — it doesn’t matter what you call it. Lions, tigers, panthers, and your common domestic tabby just can’t seem to get enough of this fragrant herb.

Most people owned by cats have heard of catnip and are aware that many kitties go crazy for the stuff.

Things You Might Not Know About Catnip

  • Catnip is a perennial herb belonging to the mint family Nepeta cataria. The plants grow two to three feet tall and have stems with heart-shaped leaves.  The tips of the stems sprout small white, blue, pink or lavender blooms.
  • Catnip is native to Europe, Africa and Asia, was imported to the U.S., and now grows throughout North America.
  • It is the chemical nepetalactone in catnip that triggers a response in the brains of susceptible cats.  The response seems to be a kind of euphoria, similar to how humans respond to hallucinogenic drugs.  Some scientists guess that it acts like a pheromone, triggering a happy and pleasurable sensation in cats.

         Fortunately, catnip is neither harmful nor addictive for felines.

  • Your cat’s reaction, if he has one, will depend on whether he sniffs or eats the herb.  Sniffing usually produces a stimulant effect, while ingesting catnip has a sedative effect.

In kitties sensitive to the chemical, the reaction to catnip can be really amazing to watch. They paw at it, rub               against it, roll around on it, kick and slap at it. Some even dash about, meow, growl, purr, drool, and just                     generally go bonkers for a few minutes. And then suddenly they lose interest and wander off. A few hours later           they can return to the catnip and go nuts all over again.

  • Not all cats are affected by catnip. Experts estimate about 50 to 75 percent have a reaction. The sensitivity to nepetalactone seems to be inherited. Very young kittens (under two or three months) and senior cats are less likely to react. Even large cats like tigers, lions and leopards can inherit sensitivity to nepetalactone
  • Catnip makes some cats aggressive rather than happily euphoric or pleasantly relaxed. If you have a multi-cat household, it is recommended you introduce catnip to each cat individually to avoid any potential for fighting.
    It’s also a good idea not to engage with your catnipped pet until you know what to expect in terms of a response.
  • Scientists have discovered nepetalactone is a very effective pest repellent against flies, mosquitoes, cockroaches and termites. In fact, it’s about 10 times as effective as DEET. Unfortunately, nepetalactone loses its ability to repel bugs when applied to the skin.
  • Catnip is also used by humans (but not by pregnant women, please). When prepared as a tea or infusion, the nepetalactone acts as a mild sedative, which can be helpful in relieving nausea, headaches, and even toothaches. Enjoy a warm cup of catnip tea at night and it might even help with insomnia. Catnip in capsule form, available at health food stores, is also used to treat headaches and digestive upsets.
    • Catnip can also be used topically for cuts by crushing and moistening fresh catnip leaves and applying the paste to the wound. It is also used as an herb for cooking.
    • Catnip is easy to grow from seed or a seedling, planted after the last freeze of the season. The plants need lots of room to grow and do very well in porous soil and full sunlight. When full grown, the cuttings should be hung upside down in a dark, dry, airy space to dry. The dried leaves can then be stored in airtight containers in the fridge.
    • Catnip can be used to entice your kitty to use her scratching post or the expensive pet bed you purchased that she wants nothing to do with. It can also be used to help an inactive house cat get some much-needed exercise.

  • If you prefer not to grow your own, organic catnip (which is recommended) comes in a wide variety of forms including sprays, loose leaves, flowers and buds, pellets, dental chews, scratching pads, and catnip toys of every conceivable kind.
  •  Some cat lovers are philosophically opposed to providing their pet with a substance that produces goofy or sleepy or seemingly out-of-control behavior. Some folks feel it is exploitative to get a cat ‘high’ on catnip. Truly, it’s a matter of personal choice whether you offer catnip to your pet, but rest assured it is neither addictive nor harmful to kitties, and is an herb that grows naturally in the wild.
  • You can provide enrichment for an indoor kitty by creating catnip toys. Sprinkle a bit of the herb into an old sock, then knot the top. Or put a big pinch of catnip in a small paper bag and crush the bag into a tight ball.
  • The intensity of your cat’s response to toys and training will be affected by the type of catnip you use. While most cats enjoy the herb dried or fresh, they’re usually less interested in catnip sprays, which generally don’t contain enough nepetalactone to appeal to most felines.
  • Catnip’s potency doesn’t too long a time and the essential oils quickly dissipate. If you buy dried catnip for your kitty buddy, store what you don’t use in the freezer in an air-tight container.

Catnip is by no means necessary for the well-being of any cat, but it is pleasant, safe, and fun. It is recommended that you give catnip to your cat no more than once a week to ensure that the effects do not diminish.

 

 

 

Aug 01

Bloat In Dogs – Treatment And Prevention

Bloat In Dogs – Treatment And Prevention

What is Bloat in Dogs?

Bloat, also known as gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) complex, is a serious and life-threatening medical and surgical emergency.  It occurs when a dog’s stomach becomes bloated because it’s full of food, foreign material, excess gas, fluid, or foam. It can happen very quickly and should be addressed as an emergency. Bloating is more common in large breeds that have a genetically inherited weakness in the ligament that holds the stomach in the correct position. It is often brought on by a dog gorging on large quantities of food.

As the stomach fills with air, pressure builds, stopping blood from the hind legs and abdomen from returning to the heart. Blood pools at the back end of the body, reducing the working blood volume and sending the dog into shock.

If this isn’t enough, there is yet another scary thing that happens, and it is devastating to see. As the stomach flips, it drags the spleen and pancreas along with it, cutting off the blood flow. The oxygen-starved pancreas produces some very toxic hormones. One, in particular, targets the heart and stops it cold. In fact, a dog can go through successful treatment and seem to be out of danger, when suddenly the heart stops.

Sadly, there are situations where dogs who get treatment can die, and up to a third of dogs die despite surgery.  The longer a dog is bloated, the poorer prognosis they have.  This is why treatment should not be delayed in any circumstance.  Generally speaking, if they make it out of the hospital after surgery, they are usually okay.

What Are the Signs of Bloat in Dogs?  

  • An enlargement of the dog’s abdomen (tight and/or swollen)
  • Retching and non-productive vomiting (failure to bring up any material other than small amounts of fluid or foam)
  • Depression
  • Salivation
  • Restlessness
  • An affected dog will feel pain and might whine if you press on his belly
  • Collapse
  • Pale mucous membranes
  • Cool extremities

Please review the Quick Reference Guide at this link for very important information on the stages and symptoms of bloat.

Without treatment, in only an hour or two, your dog will likely go into shock. The heart rate will rise and the pulse will get weaker, leading to death.

Because bloat and GDV are life-threatening conditions, call your veterinarian immediately if you see any of these signs. There is nothing that you can do to help your dog at home.

If you suspect that your dog may have bloat, rush him to his vet or to an emergency clinic as soon as possible.  It is a life-threatening emergency and cannot wait until the morning. If you are not unsure if your dog has bloat, you can they can always call an emergency clinic and ask if the signs your dog is showing are consistent with bloat

Why Do Dogs Bloat?

This question has perplexed veterinarians since they first identified the disease. It is known that air accumulates in the stomach (dilatation), and the stomach twists (the volvulus part). It is not known if the air builds up and causes the twist, or if the stomach twists and then the air builds up.

How is Bloat Treated?                         

Only your veterinarian can determine if your dog is suffering from bloat or GDV. To confirm the diagnosis, your veterinarian will perform a thorough physical exam and obtain x-rays.

Additionally, if a surgical or anesthetic procedure is necessary, your veterinarian will recommend pre-surgical blood work.

This may include:

  • Urine tests to rule out urinary tract infection and to evaluate the ability of the kidneys to concentrate urine
  • Chemistry tests to evaluate kidney, liver and pancreatic function as well as sugar levels
  • A complete blood count to rule out blood-related conditions
  • Electrolyte tests to ensure your dog isn’t dehydrated or suffering from an electrolyte imbalance
  • Other specialized tests, such as lactate levels

When you bring your dog to your vet’s office or an emergency animal hospital, the doctor will establish an IV line to assist with blood pressure regulation and to administer medications to help combat shock and pain.

If your veterinarian determines that your dog has bloat, they may perform a procedure that decompresses the stomach by removing the gas through a tube or large needle. Depending on the cause and severity of the bloat, your veterinarian may administer intravenous fluid therapy and other treatments specific to your pet’s needs.

If it is determined that your dog’s stomach is twisted, immediate surgery to untwist and re-position the stomach will be necessary. Postoperative care will be required and your veterinarian will discuss the specific course of treatment for your dog.

How Can Bloat Be Prevented?  

While there are some factors you cannot change, such as the genetics and the build of your dog, there are some things you can do to lessen the risk of your dog getting bloat.

Risk of bloat is correlated to chest conformation. Dogs with a deep, narrow chest — very tall, rather than wide — suffer the most often from bloat. Great Danes, who have a high height-to-width ratio, are five-to-eight times more likely to bloat than dogs with a low height-to-width ratio.

In addition to Great Danes, large- or giant-breed dogs at greatest risk include St. Bernards, Weimaraners, Irish Setters and Gordon Setters, Standard Poodles, and Doberman Pinschers. Males are twice as likely to bloat as females. Neutering or spaying has no effect on risk.

Even though bloat happens more often in larger breeds, it has been reported in almost every breed.

If a dog has relatives (parents, siblings, or offspring) who have suffered from bloat, there is a higher chance he will develop bloat. These dogs should not be used for breeding.

Certain dietary ingredients have been blamed over the years, but the data is inconclusive. This is because most large-breed dogs are fed a cereal-based diet, so making a statement that those diets are to blame is difficult. However, we do know that foods containing soybean meal or having oils or fats in the first four ingredients increase the risk by fourfold.

Over the years, there have been studies that show that food bowls on the floor cause more cases of bloat, but a few years later this was debunked, and elevated food bowls are now known to be just as much of a risk. With these conflicting results, a solid recommendation can’t be made.

Dogs that are fed once a day are twice as likely to bloat as those fed two meals a day. Rate of eating is also a contributor, and fast eaters have five times the risk than dogs that are slow eaters. Using bowls with fingers (or center posts) or putting large rocks in the bowl slows dogs down physically, but it’s also important to address the anxiety that comes with feeding around other dogs, because that can be a risk factor. Stressed dogs and those that are hyperactive are more likely to bloat. Separating dogs at feeding times may help reduce anxiety and stress surrounding food. Unhappy or fearful dogs are twice as likely to bloat as those that are happy.

A recent trend is to perform a preventive surgical gastropexy on an at-risk dog. Often performed when a dog is sterilized, some veterinarians now do this procedure laparoscopically to reduce the invasiveness. Unfortunately, the hardest part is determining which dogs are at a high enough risk to warrant this surgery. It could be said that all the above-mentioned breeds should have this surgery performed, but it is difficult to determine if it is cost-effective.

If you suspect that your dog may be at risk of bloat and want to explore ways to prevent it, talk to your veterinarian about your options. Preventive surgery need not be the primary defense; less invasive approaches may be better for you and your dog.

While there are some factors you cannot change, such as the genetics and the build of your dog, there are some things you can do to lessen the risk of your dog getting bloat.

Talk to your veterinarian about which of them are right for your pet:

  • Feed your dog smaller meals more frequently.  If your dog is one of the high risk breeds or has experienced bloating in the past, you want to feed him two or three smaller daily meals rather than one large one.
  • Allow your dog smaller amounts of drinking water more frequently
  • Try to limit brisk exercise before or right after your dog eats
  • Do not feed an all dry food diet. Include wet foods or large meat chunks in the diet.
  • For dry food, feed no more than one cup per thirty pounds of body weight per meal (divided between at least two meals).
  • If your dog is a greedy eater and gulps his food, invest in a food dish that forces the dog to eat slower, such as the slow feeder or fun feeder.
  • Keep your dog away from garbage or unknown food sources that may cause gas or other problems
  • The type of food you feed your pet can also be a contributor.  Commercial pet food is loosely regulated, and the majority of kibble (dry food) on the market contains carbohydrates like corn, wheat, rice, soy and oatmeal.  Fermentable carbohydrates can be considered a side effect of feeding your dog an unhealthy diet.  Foods that are very high in fat, meaning foods that have a kind of fat as one of the first four ingredients, should be avoided at all costs. It is also likely that dog foods that contain citric acid as a preservative might be a cause of bloating and GDV.
  • You should review all the ingredients in the food you feed your pet. Eliminating preservatives, emulsifiers, citric acid load, FD&C colors and any other additives that aren’t critical to your dog’s optimal health will reduce nutritional stress.

→ Remember: Call your veterinarian immediately if your pooch’s belly is distended or swollen!

If you have questions or concerns, you should always visit or call your veterinarian – they are your best resource to ensure the health and well-being of your pets.

 

 

Jul 23

Saving Money On Your Pet’s Medical Care

How To Save Money On Your Pet’s Medical Care

If you’ve taken your pet to the veterinarian lately, you must have realized that medical care for them is becoming as expensive as medical care for humans. Thanks to advances in veterinary medicine there’s almost no limit to what can be done for your pet, and with current economic conditions, the vet is one of the many places loving pet owners are looking to save.  The good news is that veterinary care can easily be a part of a healthy household budget, and there are simple ways to save.

Be An Educated Pet Owner

Start by visiting your local library or search online for a book/article on basic pet care. Familiarize yourself with the common signs of illness in your pet. For example, review this slide show about the 10 warning signs of cancer in pets.

Subtle changes in body weight or difficulties in moving or walking that are identified during an examination may indicate the need for additional testing, medications to alleviate pain, or a diet adjustment. Without an annual examination, your pet’s undetected illness can spiral out of control and might cost much more than an annual veterinary visit.

Don’t ignore signs of disease such as vomiting, weight loss or inactivity.  Pet parents sometimes attribute signs of disease to something other than disease.  Here are just a few examples: “He’s not moving around much anymore, but he is older.” Diagnosis: arthritis. “I think she’s losing weight, but I am feeding her the light food.” Diagnosis: intestinal lymphoma. “He vomits every day, but that’s normal for cats, right?” Diagnosis: chronic kidney disease. Don’t miss an opportunity to be proactive and keep your pet healthy and pain-free by quickly recognizing signs of disease.

Invest in Preventive Health Care

Preventive care is the best way to keep your pet happy and healthy, and it saves you money!

An annual visit to your pet’s veterinarian is worth its weight in gold, and it simply costs less to prevent disease than to treat it  During a routine physical examination, your veterinarian can assess your pet’s risk of contracting a contagious disease, such as parvovirus or Lyme disease, and administer vaccinations or parasite preventatives to protect your pet. Consider, for example, that a monthly heartworm preventive may cost $10 to $15, depending on the size of your pet. But if your dog contracts heartworm disease, the cost to treat it may be $400 to $1,000 or more.   Since heartworm disease can be fatal, and realizing that there’s no approved treatment for cats, $15 a month can be a very smart and healthy bargain.

Vaccinations, parasite control, dental cleaning, sound nutrition and other preventive care can help save you money in the long run. Subtle changes in body weight and other issues identified during an examination may indicate the need for additional testing, medications to alleviate pain, or a diet adjustment. Without an annual examination, your pet’s undetected illness can spiral out of control and might cost much more than an annual veterinary visit.

The bottom line is that regular checkups can help your veterinarian identify and treat health problems earlier, when they can be more affordable and easier to treat.

Maintain A Healthy Lifestyle / Keep Your Pet Lean & Trim

Nutrition and maintaining a healthy lifestyle for your pet is where it all starts. According to the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention, 44 percent of all U.S. dogs and 57 percent of all U.S. cats were overweight or obese. That’s roughly 80 million dogs and cats at increased risk for diabetes, arthritis, high blood pressure, and various forms of cancer. Diseases equal a high cost to you and your pet. Avoid these high medical expenses by keeping your pets on a healthy diet or rewarding them with low-calorie treats. Avoid the unhealthy table foods. Please see my article Foods That Are Harmful To Your Pets for more information.

Helping your pet maintain a healthy, optimal weight and giving them plenty of exercise are some of the best ways to avoid extra medical expenses. Studies show it could even help your dog or cat live almost two years longer than heavier pets. And what could be better than spending less money on medical care and having more healthy years with your buddy?

Create A Safe But Enriched Environment For Your Pet        

Some of the most common reasons for pet admissions to veterinary emergency service facilities come from hazards in the home. In one month alone, emergency and critical care veterinarians may treat pets for ingestion of human foods toxic to pets, such as xylitol and chocolate, rat poison intoxication, and consumption of human prescription and recreational drugs. Falls from open windows without screens commonly result in feline ER visits and hospitalization for shock and broken bones. In addition to pet-proofing your home, protect your pet by creating activities to keep your pet busy during the day using feeding toys, a cat tree, or mechanized toys. There are many ways to create an enriched backyard for your dog. Some of these ideas can be adapted for indoor cats as well.

Reevaluate Annual Vaccinations

Veterinary medicine is moving away from the one-size-fits-all annual vaccination model to a customized approach based on your pet’s age, health status, and risk of disease exposure. And that means your pet may need less frequent vaccinations.

Most core (basic) vaccinations, or those recommended for all pets, are licensed to be effective for three years or more. So, after the initial series of vaccines and the one-year booster, a healthy pet may not need an annual vaccination, depending on state or local laws and your vet’s recommendation. However, based on your pet’s risk of disease exposure, your veterinarian may suggest non-core vaccinations which may need to be given more frequently. Consider talking to your vet about how to protect your pet from disease while minimizing vaccination frequency.

Use Nutritional Supplements

Yes, they work for dogs too!  Nutritional support in addition to a healthy lifestyle is one of the most important elements of human and pet healthcare. Vitamins and omega-3 fatty acids help to promote your pet’s immune system and keep them as healthy as they can be. Strong immune systems equal minimal infections. Save money and keep your pet healthy.

Use A Premium Pet Food

Some of the most common reasons for vet visits include vomiting and diarrhea, due largely in part to poor diet and food. Poor-quality pet food can cause these messy and unpleasant conditions for you and your pet and can place unnecessary vet bills on your plate. Although the natural, organic, and more nutritional foods may cost a bit more than pet foods sold at the grocery store, you will still save money. You will be keeping your pet healthy, extending his years with you, and avoiding costly vet visits.  Check these sites for reviews on the best dog and cat foods for the current year.  For cats, visit Best Cat Food Reviews of 2017, and for dogs, Best Dog Food. You should also talk to your veterinarian about the best diet for your pet’s individual needs.

Feeding your pet high-quality, nutritional food is essential to their health and life expectancy

Ask About Preventive Care Packages

Many veterinarians “bundle” basic preventives such as vaccinations, parasite control, and dental care and offer them at a discount in exchange for your continued business. Ask your vet if they offer these packages.

In most cases, you can spread out the payments over the course of the year, so it’s less painful than one or two big bills a year. You might even be able to save more if you can pay for the entire package up front.

Shop Around for Prescriptions and Parasite Control

If you don’t take advantage of preventive care packages, you can still ask your veterinarian for a written prescription and price shop for medications. Pets are often prescribed human medications, so you may find better deals and even low-cost generics at pharmacies in big-box stores.

Should you choose the online pet pharmacy route, do your research to make sure it’s a reputable, licensed business. It’s best to avoid foreign online pharmacies because they could carry medications that are counterfeit or not approved by the FDA. Many veterinarians are also willing to match online prices, which may save you shipping costs, as well.

Consider Pet Health Insurance

No matter how careful you are, torn cruciate ligaments (in the joints), slipped spinal discs and intestinal foreign bodies can happen. Surgeries to repair these common conditions can be among the most expensive veterinary procedures. Pet health insurance can help defray the costs so you don’t have to make a difficult decision based on your finances.  This proactive solution to avoiding your favorite pet’s unexpected medical conditions can end up saving you thousands of dollars in vet/surgical bills. There are many new major medical coverage plans with low annual premiums available that are cost effective.

Start a Pet Health Savings Account (HSA)

Emergency funds are critical for unexpected expenses like a blown tire, broken dishwasher… or even your pup’s parvovirus.  It would be prudent to set aside extra funds for the health care for your pet, taking your pet’s age, breed and health history into account.

While it’s not tax-deductible like a human HSA, a pet health savings account does enable you to have ready money for hefty pet medical expenses. In the best-case scenario, you may put $5,000 to $10,000 aside, and if your pet never requires major medical care, you can keep that money (unlike money you put in a health insurance policy).

 Still, it’s a good idea to have pet health insurance while you’re saving up, so you’re not caught short should a major surgery or illness occur.

Get It In Writing

When possible, ask for written estimates before any veterinary services are performed. That way, you can discuss each line item to make sure you’re comfortable with it, and you’ll find that there’s less chance of surprise when the final bill comes.

Have A Candid Discussion About Finances With Your Vet

This is not a reflection on how much you love your pet or putting a value on him, but rather a responsible way to approach health care expenses. Often, there’s more than one way to diagnose or treat a condition, so your veterinarian can work with you to find an answer that fits your budget. I did this when my Betsy was diagnosed with kidney failure, and it worked out very well.  The vet was aware of my financial situation and was able to offer several treatment option paths during her illness.  She lived a very good quality of life for almost three years!

Learn At-Home Pet Maintenance

Do-it-yourself nail trimming, tooth brushing and yes, anal gland expression (emptying) can save you a lot over the course of a year. Please see my articles on nail and claw trimming, Trimming Your Cat’s Claws and Trimming Your Dog’s Nails. Your veterinarian will be happy to show you how to do the other procedures.

Don’t Wait Until The Weekend

Emergency veterinary clinics can be significantly more expensive than regular veterinary practices. If you suspect your pet may be getting ill, schedule an appointment with your regular veterinarian during the week rather than waiting until the evening or weekend when only the higher-priced clinics are open.

 

For many of us, pets are beloved members of the family whose sweet meows and wagging tails provide years of laughter and lasting joy. But, as every pet parent knows, it can be surprisingly expensive to care for your furry companion.  With some common sense, the right information, and preventive care, you will be able to enjoy many years with your fur baby and save money, as well!

 

 

 

Jul 10

Adopting A Senior Dog

Good Reasons To Adopt A Senior Dog

According to most veterinarians, a dog falls into the “senior” category around age seven. The size of a dog, however, affects this categorization. Smaller dogs mature slower and become seniors later in life than larger dogs (see chart at the end of this article). Animal shelters and rescue organizations are filled with healthy and active senior dogs that are in need of a home.

When you’re thinking about picking up a dog from your local shelter, don’t look past the older dogs. They make great pets for a number of reasons.

1. Senior dogs at shelters need homes just as badly as younger dogs. Many older dogs were once owned and loved by someone. For whatever reason, they were given up or abandoned in a shelter and are in need of a home. Just like puppies and younger adoptable dogs, they make loyal and loving companions.

2. Adopting an older dog may save its life. Many people are quick to adopt puppies and younger dogs, often overlooking dogs over the age of five. Shelters are overcrowded, and unfortunately older dogs are among the first to be euthanized if they aren’t adopted in a timely manner. By adopting a senior dog, you are not only providing it with a better life but are also saving it from being put down.

3. Older dogs are not necessarily “problem dogs” as many tend to think. Senior dogs lose their homes for a variety of reasons, usually having nothing to do with their behavior or temperament, but most times due to the fact that their owners are unable to keep them for reasons including: the novelty of owning a dog wearing off, allergies, death of a guardian, a new baby, loss of a job, a move, change in work schedule, and various other lifestyle changes. These dogs need homes just as badly as young adoptees do, and they make wonderful companions.

4. Older dogs usually come trained and understand at least basic commands. Most older dogs are potty-trained and have mastered the basic commands such as “sit,” “stay,” “come,” and “down.” Adopting an already-trained dog will save you a lot of time and energy that you’d normally have to dedicate towards training a young dog.

5. You can teach an old dog new tricks. Dogs can be trained at any age, and older dogs are just as smart as younger ones. An important fact to remember is that older dogs have a greater attention span than a puppy, which make them easier to train.

6. You can adopt a purebred pet if you want. If you really love a certain breed of dog, chances are there’s a breed rescue club that can point you in the direction of older purebred pets in need of homes.

7. Older dogs are calmer and less energetic than younger dogs. An adult dog has graduated from the puppy stage and has a calmer, established demeanor and temperament, which will give you an instant idea of how he will fit into your household. Older dogs have all their adult teeth and are out of the energetic puppy phase, which will result in less chewing destruction to your home. Many of them do well with young children as they have a lower energy level and have possibly lived with them in their past homes.

8. Senior pets are great company for senior citizens. Many elderly people find the calm presence of an older pet very comforting. They appreciate having a companion who is also ‘getting up there’ in age, doesn’t mind hearing the same stories again and again, and is content to move through life at a slower speed.

9. Older dogs make instant companions. Unlike a puppy, which requires leash training, etc. an older dog is ready to accompany you on a long walk and already knows how to play fetch. An adult dog will make a great workout partner, a loyal companion, and a late night snuggle buddy.

10. You can be a hero to a deserving dog. Almost without exception, people who adopt older animals feel a special sense of pride and purpose in opening their heart to a hard-to-place pet. Doing a good thing really does make you feel good!

If we take the proper steps to keep our senior dogs healthy, they can remain active and happy well into the equivalent of their 80s or 90s. This is a wonderful thing, because senior dogs also tend to be calmer and mellower, and less likely to suddenly develop bad behaviors or phobias because they’ve been around longer and have had a lot more experience than younger dogs.

Jul 03

Storing Your Pet’s Food Safely

SAFETY TIPS ON HOW TO STORE YOUR DOG OR CAT’S FOOD PROPERLY

We all want to feed our pets healthy, wholesome food, but could the food you serve your furry companion be stale, or even (heaven forbid) rancid?  Have you ever stopped to think about the impact of improper food storage on your companion’s health?

Storing and Serving the Food

How you store your dog or cat’s carefully chosen pet food may be just as important as what her diet contains. Improper storage techniques and lack of daily cleanliness can lead to bacterial infection, contamination and infestation.

The following mistakes are made by even the most informed and well-meaning pet parents. Breaking these habits will help ensure that your pet gets the freshest, healthiest food every meal time and will keep her happy, healthy, and strong.

COMMON MISTAKES

1. Dumping kibble into containers.

Storage containers are excellent for keeping your dog’s food fresher longer. The mistake that many pet parents make is pouring dry food directly into the container (I have this done this myself in the past!). Instead, experts recommend placing the bag itself into the storage bin and scooping out the kibble. Pet foods will retain their best flavor if stored in the original bag, which provides a fat barrier. This also prevents oils from adhering to the container and contaminating the next batch.

2. Leaving pet food unsealed.         

Exposure to the air causes food to go bad faster and increases the risk of contamination by harmful bacteria. Pet food should be sealed tightly between each feeding.

3. Storing food at high temperatures or humidity.

It may seem easier to store that cumbersome bag of dog food in the garage or on the back porch, but weather conditions like humidity can affect food’s freshness and safety. The experts at Hills Pet Nutrition recommend storing dry food and unopened canned food in a cool, dry environment to prevent vitamin loss and rancidity. Also, be sure bugs and animals cannot access the food.

4. Leaving food sitting out too long. 

Once opened, canned pet food should not be left un-refrigerated for longer than 2 to 4 hours.  To serve it after it has been refrigerated, place the amount you want to give your dog or cat in a microwavable dish and set it for 10-15 seconds to warm it up.  This will make the food more aromatic and appetizing, and it’s a great help for picky eaters.

It is recommended that your cat or dog’s food bowl of dry kibble be washed and filled fresh each day.

Dry food/kibble has an approximate ‘fresh’ life of two weeks once it has been opened. Although the small print on the bag may say the that bag has a “best before” date, that refers to when the bag is unopened.  Once opened, oxygen gets to the kibble and oxidation starts.  Oxidation occurs as soon as the oil in the kibble comes into contact with oxygen from the environment.  The oil reacts with oxygen and initiates an undesirable series of chemical reactions that eventually produce rancidity in the oil of the kibble. Most dry pet foods are loaded with many different fats and oils, and some of those fats are extremely sensitive to oxygen. When oxidation takes place, the fats turn rancid.

How to Enhance the Life of Dry Pet Food

  • Buy smaller bags of dry food and try to have the contents of the used bag consumed within 7 days (ideally).  This may not be cost effective, but you may be able to find good deals on sites like Chewy.com. They also have a discount if you sign up for auto-ship regular deliveries.
  • Purchase kibble without the fats and add your own fresh fat sources. Adding fish oil to the food at the time it’s served is an example.
  • If you purchase larger bags, store the kibble in the freezer to prevent oxidization.
  • Never buy bags of pet food that are torn or damaged.
  • If you use plastic containers to store kibble, keep the food in the original bag and then place that bag into the plastic container.
  • Remember: The long-term consumption of rancid fats for pets leads to long-term health problems for them.  If your dog or cat refuses to eat the kibble, do not force them. They may be telling you something!

5. Allowing small children to handle pet food.

Small children are not known for having the cleanest hands and they could contaminate your pet’s meal by not washing up before handling the food.  While it is great to teach older kids responsibility by having them help out with feedings, younger kids should probably sit this chore out.

6. Using pet food after its expiration date.

Expiration or “Best By” dates on pet food tell you the date that a particular manufacturer has determined the food no longer provides your pet with proper nutrition, but serious cases of health problems and illness from expired food have been reported. Be sure to check the bag or cans before purchasing to ensure that the expiration date is well in the future.

7. Not washing bowls between feedings.

The FDA recommends washing pet food bowls and utensils with dish soap and hot water between every use to prevent infectious agents such as Salmonella. Think about it, would you use the same dishes and cutlery over and over without a wash?

Keeping The Bowls Clean
 

Both food and water bowls for dogs and cats can harbor a variety of germs and bacteria such as Salmonella and E. coli, which is why it’s so important to disinfect them regularly.  These bacteria can cause illness in both pets and people. The young, elderly, and those having impaired immune systems are especially at risk from these types of bacteria.

Many pet parents are guilty of simply refilling the water bowl when it gets close to empty, but the water that sits around will form a slimy residue that hosts dangerous bacteria and fungus that can begin to grow. Some pet guardians may not even notice that their pet will start shying away from a dirty water bowl and become mildly dehydrated or, worse yet, seek water from unsafe areas indoors or out.  Pets will also eat their food and then go to their water bowl, depositing food in the bowl while they drink. The food that falls into their water bowl helps to further the contamination of the water.

Water should be changed at least once a day, and the bowl should be washed with hot, soapy water and rinsed well. Do not “top it off” when the level gets low. Instead, wash the bowl and fill it with cold, fresh water.

The cleanest, safest options for pet bowls are either stainless steel or ceramic.

Plastic is not advised because it is very porous and can scratch easily. Both of these things make it much easier for algae, mold, and bacteria to collect and grow. Plastic dishes may contain a hazardous substance called BPA which leaches into your pet’s water and is a known carcinogen. This can break down further in the dishwasher. Plastics also absorbs odors and become unpleasant to a pet’s sensitive sense of smell.

According to a NSF (Natural Science Foundation), yeast, mold, and coli-form bacteria (which includes Salmonella and E.coli) have been found in dog bowls.

A study published in a Canadian Veterinarian Journal stated that a hot water rinse is not effective, and is comparable to doing nothing at all.

Pet bowls should be cleaned with hot,soapy water daily, and disinfected at least once a week with a bleach solution. Add ½ cup of Clorox Regular Bleach to a gallon of water and let the bowls soak for 10 minutes before rinsing thoroughly and letting them air dry. Soaking the bowls in the solution for 10 minutes will also kill parvo, which is a leading cause of severe illness and death in dogs under six months old (although it’s worth noting that dogs older than six months of age are not immune!).

Also, be sure not to use an abrasive sponge when cleaning because you need to avoid scratches and grooves. Baking soda can be used, and is a great cleaning agent.

Like food bowls, placemats made with harder materials, like plastic, can be disinfected with a bleach solution and pet owners should do this regularly. Placemats that are made of soft fabrics can be washed in a washing machine, so check to ensure those types of placemats are machine-washable before you purchase them.

Three Best Ways To Wash Your Pet’s Bowls Daily

1. Run them through the hottest cycle of the dishwasher to get them clean and sterilized.

2. Wash and thoroughly rinse with dish detergent and a clean non-abrasive sponge to release all organic material from the sides of the bowls.

3. Try scrubbing with a mix of equal parts baking soda, salt and warm water.

Remember:

Store all unopened pet food in a cool, dry place.

Opened canned pet food should not sit un-refrigerated for more than 2-4 hours.

Thoroughly wash bowls and replace uneaten dry kibble in bowls daily with fresh kibble.

Buy food to last no more than 4 to 6 weeks at a time. Once you open the bag, that is Day One. Buying in volume or taking advantage of sales is of no benefit to your animal if the food will lose potency before it’s been consumed.  Depending on temperature and humidity, pet food will start oxidizing and losing nutrient content. You can freeze or refrigerate kibble in sealed ziplock bags to extend shelf life for up to 6 months.

An open bag of dry kibble should be placed into an air-tight container, but keep it in its original bag before placing it in the container.

Use stainless steel or ceramic bowls for your pet’s food and water.

Wash your pet’s food and water bowls daily.

Replace water at least once a day. It’s not enough to add fresh water to the bowl. You need to wash the bowl of food bits, hair, dust and other matter that collects daily in the water. Also refill the water bowl if the water level gets too low.

When a pet’s food or water bowl starts to look worn and scratched, replace it.

Your pet is depending on you for good care, and when you love your dog or cat, providing the healthiest, cleanest food shouldn’t be a task. It’s something that caring pet owners want to do for their fur babies.

 

 

 

 

 

Jun 19

Is Your Dog A Picky Eater?

How To Get Your Picky Dog To Eat

All pet parents know that the way to a dog’s heart is through their stomach, but what do you do if you have a picky eater?  First, it’s important to rule out any health issues that may be affecting your dog’s appetite. Sore teeth and gums, allergies, and stomach problems could be keeping your dog from enjoying their food. If your normally voracious dog is suddenly picky, a trip to the vet might be in order.

When is lack of appetite normal?

There are times when a poor appetite can be expected. Female dogs in heat as well as the male dogs nearby frequently lose their appetite for a time. However, inappetence following a heat cycle can be a sign of pyometra, which requires an immediate vet visit. Pyometra is a uterine disease that occurs most often in intact (not spayed) female dogs six years or older that have never been pregnant.

Adolescent puppies, especially of some larger breeds, are notorious for alternating between being extra-hungry and skipping meals. Younger puppies may be reluctant to eat because of teething pain (soft food and chewing on something cold can help in this case).

Hot weather can make a dog want to eat less. Some dogs prefer eating at certain times of day and may turn down food offered at other times.

Some older dogs have a decreased appetite and decreased digestive-absorptive ability, resulting in a loss of body weight. These pets should be fed a palatable high-calorie diet intended for the older dog at frequent intervals. With aging, the senses of smell and taste are diminished. These conditions reduce food intake so that it may be necessary to feed canned or moistened dry food, warmed, so that the odor is enhanced. Because they are less active, older pets require fewer calories. Because of changes in smell, taste, the oral cavity and digestive system, the food offered to older dogs should be appetizing and easily digestible.

Additives such as supplements and some foods may cause your dog to turn away from his meals. If your dog doesn’t like supplements added to his food, try giving them in pill form instead. Many dogs refuse to eat vegetables, and so may turn down meals if there are any mixed in. Other foods that your dog dislikes may also cause him to turn away if they are added to his meals.

Dogs who are fed too much may also be picky about their meals. If you have a picky dog who is overweight, look at how much you’re feeding, both at mealtime and in between, to see if the problem isn’t related to too many snacks and treats. Try reducing the amount you feed by 10 percent at a time to see if you can get your dog to begin to slowly lose weight, along with being hungrier at mealtime.

Some dogs have problems with bile if their stomachs are empty for too long. This can lead to vomiting of yellow liquid in the early morning hours, often accompanied by nausea and lack of appetite. In this case, feeding a late-night snack before bed can help.

Causes of Picky Eating in Dogs

But what do you do if you’ve ruled out all health issues and your dog is still leaving food in the bowl?  Potential causes for pickiness include:

  • Too many treats. The prospect of mouthwatering human food could be causing your dog to turn up their nose at dinner. Keep handouts to a minimum to encourage them to enjoy their meals. And remember, some human food is dangerous to dogs. Please see my article Foods That Are Harmful To Your Pets for more information.
  • Boredom. Your dog craves variety, just like you. If they’ve eaten too much of the same thing, it might be time to carefully switch to another flavor of kibble, adding some wet food to their diet or even making your own dog food.
  • Feeding too much. As your dog grows older, her dietary needs change. A growing puppy needs a different amount of food than an adult or elderly dog. Make sure you’ve measured out portions according to weight and age.
  • Feeding area problems. Is your dog’s bowl in a busy hallway or loud kitchen? Find a quiet place for your dog to eat where no one will bother her.

Many pet parents become concerned that their fussy-eater will go hungry or will not receive the proper nutrition necessary to be healthy. There are many reasons why dogs turn their nose up at the food bowl, and there is unfortunately no ‘trick’ to feeding a fussy pup; however here are some tips on how you can encourage your picky eater to dine.                        

Before you try any of these methods, if your dog has only recently become fussy about her food or her appetite suddenly changes, this could indicate illness and maybe even disease. In this situation, it is strongly recommended that you take your dog for a veterinary check-up immediately.

Some Tips To Start

  • Do not stay with your dog after her food is offered.  Many dog owners unknowingly have established a history of supervised eating. Since early puppy hood, your dog may have learned the essence of community, social eating. Most likely, she was used to always eating in the kitchen with you standing by her side at all times. It may have happened that if you left the room, you noticed your dog didn’t eat but rather followed you, so you came back right away and made sure you would be always with her so she could hurry and finish her food.
  • Petting, in conjunction with vocal reassurance, may be all that is necessary to induce eating.
  • Mixing a highly appetizing canned food with their usual food will often increase palatability enough to induce eating.
  • Warming the food to body temperature will enhance the aroma of the food and also directly improve the flavor. Warming dry food for a few minutes on low heat in an oven or warming wet food in a microwave (6-10secs) will help. Do not over heat the food as you can “zap” away the essential nutrients.
  • Feed often – Try feeding smaller amounts of her regular food three or four times a day.
  • Trying different foods may also be helpful. Some dogs prefer a dry food or a canned premium food.
  • Most dogs can be enticed with a good quality cat food (this is only a short-term alternative as the protein levels found in cat food are too high for dogs).
  • A pet that will not eat from a bowl may take food from your hand, and once they begin eating, they will usually continue voluntarily (from their bowl).
  • Place the food in a “happy environment” that is in a quiet, traffic free area of the house or yard.

More Tips for Helping a Picky Dog

Here are a few more tips and tricks to get picky eaters to clean their plates. Encourage your dog to eat by:

  • Eliminating table scraps from their diet; be strict about this until their picky eating subsides.
  • Making mealtimes the same time every day.
  • Creating a fun, yet predictable routine around food. For example, asking your dog to perform a trick before eating makes mealtime more of a reward!
  • Putting the food up when your dog walks away from the bowl. Free feeding can encourage picky eaters. Limiting the time in which your dog can eat will help them eat more readily.
  • Using a puzzle toy. Dogs love to play, and using a food-dispensing puzzle toy is a great way to stimulate your dog’s mind while filling their stomachs.
  • Adding healthy snacks to your dog’s bowl. Some chopped carrot or a handful of peas are a great way to get your dog interested in food without sacrificing their health.

Stay Positive and Patient

Your dog may be responding to your behavioral cues during mealtimes. Or she may be enjoying the attention given when she doesn’t eat her food, which is then reinforcing the bad behavior. By keeping feeding time positive, the overall experience will also provide positive reinforcement for your dog. Praise your dog when she eats her food, and give her attention only after the meal is gone.

Staying out of the area while your dog eats and giving her a quiet, safe place to eat alone, away from distractions or competition from other pets, may be helpful. Offer her food for a short period of time and then take it away. This will teach your dog to eat at certain regular times and will provide a comforting routine that the dog can rely on.

Above all, be patient with your dog and watch her closely for signs of illness. Work with your veterinarian if you are concerned about her health. Time, self-discipline and consistency will do much to cure a finicky eater. Eventually “my dog won’t eat” will become a thing of the past!

Jun 05

Storm Phobia In Dogs

Calming Your Dog During A Storm

It can be heartbreaking to watch: Even before the first clap of thunder, otherwise well-behaved dogs begin to pace, pant, cling to their owners, hide in the closet, or jam themselves behind the toilet. In severe cases, they’ll claw through drywall, chew carpets, or break through windows in their escalating panic.

Thunderstorm phobia in dogs is real, not uncommon, and experts say that it shouldn’t be ignored.

Storms can be a terrifying experience for many dogs, regardless of their age or breed. If you consider that many humans are afraid of thunder storms, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that our dogs are, as well. Big, loud thunder, heavy rainfall, powerful winds… all of these are things that could easily frighten even the most stoic of canines.

Storm Phobia Triggers

Veterinarians suspect that dogs are set off by some combination of wind, thunder, lightning, barometric pressure changes, static electricity, and low-frequency rumbles preceding a storm that humans can’t hear. According to one theory, dogs experience painful shocks from static buildup before the storm.      

The anxiety often gets worse throughout the season as storms become more frequent.

Herding breeds, such as border collies, may be predisposed to the problem, according to an Internet survey by Tufts University researchers. Dogs with other fearful behaviors, such as separation anxiety, also seem more prone to panic before and during storms.

Some dogs with storm phobia are also frightened of other loud noises, such as fireworks or gunshots, but others are only afraid of storms.

So how can you help your dog feel more comfortable through a storm? There are a few different things you can try.

Provide A Secure Shelter

Dogs naturally enjoy having a shelter to call their own, such as a crate. Although many people find crating difficult, if taught correctly most dogs absolutely love going into their crates and may even do so on their own to hide from a stressful situation. An open crate will allow your dog a place to feel safe and secure – a sheltering den from the heavy storm. Make sure the crate isn’t too big as your dog might not feel confined enough, but not so small that your dog feels cramped. It’s best to fill it with blankets, toys and any of your dog’s favorite items. Dogs instinctively want to hide when something frightening is happening, so offering your dog a crate is the perfect solution, and can definitely help ease their anxiety.

If you don’t have a crate, a basement where the dog can’t hear or see what’s happening outside, an interior room with music playing, or a bathroom can provide a safe place for your dog to go during a storm.

Let your dog decide where he wants to go. Notice where he goes during a storm, and if possible, allow access to it.

Be sure your dog can come and go freely, since some animals become more anxious if confined.

Stay With Your Dog

There are times that owners have been warned not to comfort their dogs at the risk of reinforcing the dog’s fearful behavior. But a heavy storm is not the time to leave your dog alone and force him to buck up. In fact, since dogs are pack animals, they naturally want to be with their families during a scary event. Even if your dog is crated, make sure to stay in the room with him so you can offer physical and emotional support. Gentle massages, soothing talk, and reassurance that everything is under control can help your dog feel much better about the situation.

Dogs can pick up on our feelings, so it is a must that you stay calm if you wish to calm your dog during a thunderstorm. If they sense your anxiety, it will only make their fear and anxiety worse.

Consider Natural Therapies

There are many anti-anxiety medications you can ask your veterinarian about if your dog has severe anxiety, but it is recommend trying natural therapies first, such as a calming chew. For dogs that have a mild phobia, they seem to work quite well. Melatonin is a natural hormone that is used for many ailments, including insomnia. It’s a natural way to make your dog feel more tired and hopefully sleep through the storm or take the edge off their anxiety. Bach flower extracts and lavender oil are also natural calming alternatives that you might want to try. Make sure you ask your veterinarian for specific dosage advice and administration before giving your dog any natural supplements.

Consider A Snug Garment

Snug-fitting shirts and wraps especially designed to calm anxious dogs are worth a try. Thunder Shirt, which is a  pressure garment that is said to have a calming effect similar to swaddling a baby, is one of the most popular snug garments for pets. There are also ways to make your own anxiety wrap for your dog.

Reward calm behavior year-round

Always reward calm behavior.  Many owners make the mistake of trying to console and pet a fearful dog that’s whimpering or climbing on them, but that just encourages the panicky behavior. You should absolutely NOT scold your dog, but you don’t want to reward him for being clingy because that will only increase the clingy behavior.

Don’t wait for your dog to act fearful to give him attention. When you console a whimpering dog you are rewarding the unwanted behavior. So instead, praise him and shower him with affection when he’s completely calm and that way he knows that this is the correct way to behave.

Practice getting your dog to settle on command. Try putting a special “inside” leash on the dog and practice having the pet lie at your feet while praising the calm behavior with words and treats.

Be sure to practice when there is no storm, so your dog learns the routine. When the storm comes up, then put on the leash and say something like, “Come on and lie down here.” Your dog will then know what to do.

During the storm, you can also try distracting your dog by offering his favorite toy, playing fetch, petting him, and feeding treats as long as he remains calm.

The idea here is to get him to forget about the storm and replace the fear and anxiety with something positive.  Providing a positive or distracting stimulus may be the key to calming him down.

Ask Your Veterinarian For Advice

If your dog’s phobia is severe, you may want to talk to your veterinarian about getting prescription anti-anxiety medications to ride out storms. Although most owners find this option the least satisfying, it should still be considered if your dog is severely suffering and nothing else seems to work. You might also enlist the help of a professional dog trainer and/or behaviorist who can offer the best options for your particular dog’s phobia. All dogs react differently to different methods of treatment, so you’ll want to try as many as you can.

You may find that the best management plan for helping your pup through his storm phobia is a mixture of methods.  This can include changing some of his environment (finding him a safe place during the storm), applying some behavior modification techniques, and possibly some anti-anxiety medication.  Work with your veterinarian to come up with the best treatment plan for your dog so that he can eventually “weather the storm” with you.