May 29

Loss of Appetite in Cats

Appetite Loss in Cats

People joke about cats and their finicky eating habits, but it’s actually a serious issue if your cat won’t eat.

Although a refusal to eat is concerning for all pets, it can be more dangerous for cats.

If your cat is not eating, it is a sign that something is wrong. Causes of appetite loss include illness, recent vaccination, change in environment (stress), or just plain fussiness. Regardless of the reason that your cat is not eating, the physical consequences of inappetence can be serious.

Cats who don’t eat must rely on fat reserves for energy, and this fat must be processed by the liver before it can be used. If your cat does not have adequate protein to aid in this processing, fat can build up in the cells of the liver, resulting in a life-threatening disease known as hepatic lipidosis. Though many times this disease leads to liver failure, it can be reversed if caught early enough.

Read on to learn about the causes and treatments of appetite loss in cats.

WHY A CAT WOULD STOP EATING

Change in Environment – The first thing to consider with a cat who isn’t eating is whether there’s been a change in his environment or routine. Cats enjoy living a routine life, and any changes in that routine can result in appetite loss. A change in your daily schedule that has you home at different times or less often than usual, the sudden loss of a family member, moving to a new home, or a new member of the household, either two or four-legged, can be stress-inducing, and your cat may deal with that stress by refusing to eat. Neighborhood cats that are visible to your cat or that he can hear or smell, and sometimes something as simple as changing the location of your cat’s food bowl or litterbox can create stress.

Illness – If a change in your cat’s environment doesn’t seem to be the problem, it would be prudent to make an appointment with your veterinarian, as one of the first signs of illness in cats is lack of interest in food.  This may occur suddenly or perhaps be gradual or intermittent.  Infections, pancreatitis, kidney failure, cancer, and intestinal problems can all cause a cat to stop eating. Less serious medical issues like a toothache can also be the problem. If you notice that your cat is suddenly refusing to eat, you should visit your veterinarian to rule out any medical conditions.

Vaccination – Vaccinations help to keep your cat healthy and free of disease, but they can also cause side effects, one of the most common being loss of appetite. This side effect is usually minor and temporary, but you should contact your veterinarian if you notice the problem persisting.

Fussiness – Cats are finicky eaters, and they often take a long time to adjust to a new food. Cats have also been known to become bored with the food they’ve been eating. If you’ve recently changed your cat’s food — or if you’ve never changed it — this may be the reason that your cat is refusing to eat.

 

TREATMENT FOR CATS WHO AREN’T EATING

Treatment for your cat’s refusal to eat will depend on the cause. If your cat is not eating because of an underlying medical condition, that condition must be treated, but your veterinarian may also design a feeding regimen to get your cat eating while they are unwell.

Changes in feeding schedule and food type can sometimes get a sick cat eating again, and many times a tasty canned food will do the trick. When treating more serious illnesses, your veterinarian may prescribe appetite stimulants, implant a feeding tube, or recommend that you feed your cat a liquid diet with a syringe.

If a medical condition is not the cause of your cat’s inappetence, here are three things you can try to restore your cat’s desire to eat.

1. If you’ve found that your cat is particularly enticed by certain food items — such as canned fish or liver — try mixing these in with your cat’s regular food. Only offer these special food items in small amounts, as too much could result in health problems caused by excessive vitamins. Fish oil, tuna juice, soup broth, and cooked eggs are other good options for mixing with your cat’s food. Eventually you should be able to transition to feeding only cat food.

*The Weruva brand of all-natural canned cat foods are made with wholesome beef, chicken, or fish as the base ingredient.  Supplemental nutrients and fresh vegetables are added to ensure a balanced diet that is rich in high quality protein, low in fat and in carbs. These grain-free and gluten-free foods are low in ash, magnesium, and phosphorus with proper moisture levels to promote healthy urinary tracts in cats. They are highly rated and are GMO-free, MSG-free, and Carrageenan-Free (Carrageenan is derived from red algae or seaweeds and is widely used as a binder in a wide variety of foods and healthcare products).

2. You can also try heating up your cat’s food in the microwave before serving it.  You don’t want it too hot to eat, but a little bit of warmth will help release the scent of the food, which may make your cat more receptive to the idea of eating the food.

3. Rotating your cat’s diet among different foods several times a year can help to reduce fussiness, and it can also help prevent the development of food allergies or intestinal issues. When changing your cat’s food, always make the transition over several weeks by mixing the new food in with the old. If you switch foods too abruptly, your cat may refuse to eat.

Try to make your cat’s mealtime a pleasant experience and make sure that he’s in a calm, quiet, comfortable environment.  If he’s hesitant to eat from his bowl, try offering food from a clean paper plate or by hand-feeding him in tiny amounts.

If your cat still won’t eat, take the food away and provide fresh food later in the day. If the food is left to harden and become stale, your cat may learn to avoid it in the future.

If Your Best Efforts Fail…

If despite your best efforts, you can’t get sufficient calories into your cat, alert your veterinarian, who may prescribe an appetite stimulant, a homeopathic remedy, or other medical solution.

It’s important to understand that unlike dogs or humans, cats can’t go for a long period without food and they get very sick very quickly if they are not eating.

To Summarize

Your cat’s loss of appetite may mean something as simple as his dislike for a new brand of food or it may indicate a more serious medical condition.   If other symptoms are present (difficulty breathing, vomiting, lethargy, drooling, excessive thirst), schedule an appointment with your veterinarian.   A physical exam, x-rays, fecal tests and or blood work can diagnosis the problem and a treatment plan can be determined.

Remember that early intervention can mean a better prognosis for recovery and less discomfort for your beloved pet.

May 22

Why Do Dogs Roll in Stinky Scents? (Scent Rolling)

Scent Rolling: Why Do Dogs Like to Roll in Stinky Scents?

The day is perfect.  You and your pup are walking peacefully along the beach and she suddenly runs up ahead.  You can see her sniffing something…..and then she’s rolling in the sand like there’s no tomorrow.  When you catch up, you see that she’s rolling on a dead fish, or eel, or something that was once swimming happily in the ocean (and by the smell, it was a good while ago!).  Why does your otherwise perfect dog like to roll in dead fish? And more importantly how can you discourage the behavior?

Most dog parents have at some time become familiar with this smelly habit. Whether it’s a bath in cow manure, a plunge into the nearest road kill, or a leisurely massage in a long-gone fish remains at the beach, dogs seem to wear foul scents the way people wear perfume. Do they just like the smell? Is it an olfactory disguise their ancestors used when hunting prey downwind?

While most dog lovers, including myself, haven’t a clue, there are several theories that do make sense.  The Senior Curator at Wolf Park in Indiana, Pat Goodmann, spent several years studying the phenomenon, called scent rolling, in the wolves at the semi-natural wolf reserve.

Why Do Wolves Scent Roll?

“Scent rolling is probably a way for wolves to bring information back to the pack, ” said Goodmann. “When a wolf encounters a novel odor, it first sniffs and then rolls in it, getting the scent on its body, especially around the face and neck. Upon its return, the pack greets it and during the greeting investigates the scent thoroughly. At Wolf Park, we’ve observed several instances where one or more pack members has then followed the scent directly back to its origin.”

This scent smearing ritual isn’t limited to stinky odors. In her studies, Goodmann placed different odors in the wolf enclosures and found that wolves roll in sweet-smelling scents too. Besides rolling in cat feces or urine, elk, mouse, and hog, they also rolled in mint extract, Chanel No. 5, Halt! dog repellent, fish sandwich with tartar sauce, fly repellent, and Old Spice. So the scents aren’t necessarily foul, nor are they ones that wolves necessarily like. Goodmann stated, “some of the Wolf Park wolves object when handlers put fly repellent on their ear tips but these same wolves often scent roll readily in fly repellents manufactured to be sprayed onto horses, provided the scents are sprayed on the ground and left for the wolves to discover.”

But the explanation that makes the most evolutionary and adaptive sense is that this ritual is an attempt at disguising the dog’s own scent, a leftover behavior from when our domestic dogs were still wild and hunted for a living. If, for instance, an antelope smelled the scent of a wild dog, jackal or wolf, it would likely bolt and run for safety. But prey animals are quite used to the smell of their own droppings, so canines learned to roll in antelope dung or carrion to mask their scent and thereby increase the likelihood of a successful hunt.

 

How to Prevent Dogs from Rolling in Foul Scents?

While this foul form of fragrant communication may be fine for wolves, it’s not so fun when it’s your pup that’s sharing the news. What can you do to discourage this odiferous behavior? According to Goodmann, it’s a hard habit to break. Even if presented with an odor over and over, wolves continue to roll in it. The same goes for dogs.

The solution to this problem lies in your keen vision and ability as a trainer. Keep your eyes open for things that excite your dog’s nose and before your furbaby is rolling in ecstasy, call her back to your side. Then keep her engaged in fun games and rewards around you so that she forgets the potential stinky fun elsewhere. While the training time for preventing scent rolling makes this solution sound tedious, the time saved on needless baths makes the effort easily worthwhile.

Managing a “Stinky Dog”

Teaching the “leave it” command can be very helpful in managing your dog’s most odor-inducing activities. You may need to bring along your dog’s favorite treat when you begin training, which will act as an appropriate reward for avoiding these strong-smelling items.

Safety Concerns

If the leave it command comes too late and the damage is already done, there may be some safety concerns. Most of the time, your dog’s penchant for rolling around in stinky stuff is unpleasant but harmless. If your pup starts eating some of these “delicacies,” you definitely need to intervene. A dog that eats the remains of an animal, especially rodents, can inadvertently digest a deadly toxin − such as rat poison. The dog can also be exposed to parasites and bacteria, including leptospirosis. If your dog does ingest a dead animal, contact your veterinarian for guidance and to discuss health risks.

Cleaning Up

Even with training, your dog may still roll in “stinkiness” and will still manage to get dirty and smelly on occasion. (He is a dog, after all.)  Bath time will be on the agenda, and Nature’s Miracle products are excellent in removing odors and are formulated with odor neutralizers & deodorizers.

Dead fish: If you spend time with your dog by a pond, lake, or beach, she may anoint herself from time to time with eau de dead fish.

Wash the worst of it off with dog shampoo and water, and rinse well. Then saturate the fishy area with lemon juice – freshly squeezed works best. Let it soak for five to ten minutes.  (You can chat with him while you wait. Don’t scold him, he’s just doing dog things.)

Then rinse, shampoo, and rinse again, and apply conditioner according to directions to counteract the drying effect of the lemon juice.

Icky, greasy, who-knows-what gunk: If your dog rolls in foul-smelling things he finds in the yard or on a walk, a bath with Dawn dishwashing liquid will probably remove it. Dawn is often used to clean wildlife that has been exposed to oil and other toxic substances.

 

And while you’re scrubbing your stinky puppy for the third time in one week, just remember; that nose may get her in trouble and cause her to stink up your house, but it is also quite remarkable in many other positive ways. Her amazing nose is 10,000 to 100,000 times as acute as ours. Dogs can use their noses to assist people with managing medical conditions such as diabetes, and they may even be able to sniff out cancer in humans. That’s something worth cheering about!

 

 

 

May 15

Plants That Are Toxic To Cats

Plants That Are Toxic to Cats

While plants and flowers are a great way to decorate, not every plant is safe for your home and yard. We all know poison oak shouldn’t be touched, and to keep poinsettias away from our pets, but there are some of blooms that may have toxic properties that are dangerous to cats.

If you are keeping any sort of plants around your home, you should be aware of which ones can pose a threat to the safety of your cat. And, because cats love to climb and explore, it’s difficult to keep plants out of their reach.  It’s important to accurately identify the plants to which your cat will be exposed so that you can keep him safe and healthy. When in doubt, remove the plant from your home or yard.

If you do nothing more than ban Lilies and Poinsettias from your house, you’ll be much closer to preventing your cat from plant poisoning. These two seasonal plants are common holiday additions to many households, but should be banned permanently from homes with pets.

If a plant is poisonous, assume all parts of the plant are poisonous, even though some parts of the plant may have higher concentrations of the toxic principle than others. Many toxic plants are irritants: they cause inflammation of the skin, mouth, stomach, etc. The toxic principle in other plants may only affect a particular organ like the kidney or heart.

Please note that many of these plants are popular flowers used in arrangements. Even though a cat owner has taken great care to ensure their home and yard is free from these toxic plants, any flower arrangements brought into the home should also be kept out of reach of your cat.

The following is a listing of plants that are toxic to cats, as well as the most commonly encountered toxic plants:

  • Amaryllis (Amaryllis sp.)
  • Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale)
  • Azaleas and Rhododendrons (Rhododendron sp.)
  • Castor Bean (Ricinus communis)
  • Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum sp.)
  • Cyclamen (Cyclamen sp.)
  • English Ivy (Hedera helix)
  • Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe sp.)
  • Lilies (Lilium sp.)
  • Marijuana (Cannabis sativa)
  • Oleander (Nerium oleander)
  • Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum sp.)
  • Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
  • Sago Palm (Cycas revoluta)
  • Spanish thyme (Coleus ampoinicus)
  • Tulip and Narcissus bulbs (Tulipa and Narcissus sp.)
  • Yew (Taxus sp.)
Below is a comprehensive listing with links to photos of the plants:

**Note this is a partial list of the most common plants and flowers. Should your cat eat a plant or flower, call your local poison control office or veterinarian. They can answer any questions and advise in actions needed to counteract poisons.

Flowers and plants that cause rashes
(Dermatitis)

Agapanthus
Cactus – Punctures skin, infection
Chrysanthemums
Ficus (Fig)
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Pothos Ivy (in small amounts)
Primrose
Schefflera
Sumac  (Poison Sumac)

Flowers and plants that cause upset stomachs
(Vomiting, diarrhea, and gas)

Agapanthus
Amaryllis
Aster
Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila)
Boxwood
Cala Lily
Carnation
Chrysanthemums
Clematis
Cyclamen
Daffodil (Jonquil)
English Ivy
Freesia
Gladiolas
Holly
Hyacinth
Hydrangea
Kalanchoe
Peony
Morning Glory
Poinsettia
Pothos Ivy
Scheifflera
Tulip

Flowers and plants that cause organ damage
(Kidney, liver, stomach, heart, etc.)

Azalea (in small amounts)
Cardboard Palm
Crocus
Foxglove
Lily

Flowers and plants that cause death

Azalea (in large amounts)
Cyclamen
Delphinium (Larkspur)
Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia)
Foxglove
Lantana
Larkspur
Mistletoe
Oleander
Rhododendron
Sago Palms

WHAT TO WATCH FOR

Since many plants are irritants, especially for the gastrointestinal tract, most symptoms seen will be the result of irritation or inflammation, such as redness, swelling, or itchiness of the skin or mouth.

If the toxic principle directly affects a particular organ, the symptoms seen will be related to that organ. For example:

  • Difficulty breathing (if the airways are affected)
  • Drooling or difficulty swallowing (if the mouth, throat, or esophagus is affected)
  • Vomiting (if the stomach or intestines are affected)
  • Diarrhea (if the intestines or colon are affected)
  • Excessive drinking and urinating (if the kidneys are affected)
  • Fast, slow, or irregular heart beat (if the heart is affected)

IMMEDIATE CARE

If you see your cat eating a plant and you are uncertain if it is poisonous, or if you suspect your cat ate such a plant within the past 1 to 2 hours, you can do the following before you take him to your veterinarian:

1.  Remove any plant material from the hair and skin.

2.  If it necessary, you can wash the cat with warm water and a little non-irritating dish soap.

3.  The identity of the plant is very important for determining treatment. If you don’t know what kind of plant it is and you can bring it with you, do so. Veterinarians don’t receive much training in plant identification, but every effort needs to be made to identify the plant. If your cat has vomited at all, try to collect some it for the doctor.

4.   Call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Helpline  at (888) 426-4435.

VETERINARY CARE

Diagnosis

The best diagnosis is made by identifying the plant. Your veterinarian will give your cat a physical exam, and order such tests as necessary to determine the overall health of your cat. These tests are especially necessary if the plant is known to target specific organs.

Treatment

Once your cat has vomited, your veterinarian may give him activated charcoal to absorb any of the toxic principle that may be in the gut. Your vet may administer medication like sucralfate, which protects the damaged areas of the stomach.

Supportive care, such as intravenous fluids or anti-inflammatory medication will be used as needed, especially if the gastrointestinal tract is severely affected.

LIVING AND MANAGEMENT

Some plants are fatal for cats when ingested, regardless of how quickly and excellent the care may be. This is usually true of lilies. Other plants may cause enough damage that prolonged aftercare in the form of medication or special diet is needed. Be sure to follow your veterinarian’s instructions.

PREVENTION

Take whatever steps you can to protect your cat from exposure to poisonous plants. This includes removing such plants from your home and yard.

Because contact with some flowers and plants can cause reactions varying from an itch to death, it is best to teach your cat not to eat plants and flowers. Just as we baby proof our home for a new child, we must also cat proof our homes for our four-legged children.

Afterthought

Eating house plants is a common behavior in cats that do not get vegetable matter in their diet. By providing a small flower pot with grass or catnip, an owner often can eliminate the problem. For the cat that has developed a habit or preference, putting the plant where the cat cannot get to it or using aversive/unpleasant taste-smell conditioning with pepper sauce or vinegar sometimes works. You can also use a fine mist water sprayer on the cat when caught in the act or other scare tactics like making a loud noise to startle him.

 

 

May 08

Taking Your Dog To A Dog Park

Tips for Taking Your Dog to a Dog Park

Spending an afternoon at the dog park is great for providing your dog with exercise while allowing him to socialize with other dogs. While the experience can and should be fun, it can also be a challenge if your pup’s bad manners are allowed to go unchecked. Here are some basics for a fun, trouble-free time at the dog park.

Is My Dog a Good Fit for an Off-Leash Park?

Before you can even think about heading to an off-leash park, you need to make sure your dog will be safe in that environment. Well-trained, socialized dogs with no resource-guarding issues are ideal candidates for an off-leash experience at a dog park

Let’s start with this rule:  Don’t take puppies to the park. They can be hard to control. People find them cute, but older dogs often think they’re a pain. Plus, those who haven’t yet had all their shots can be exposed to diseases. Wait until your pup is 6 months old before you go. The dog park is not a place to learn socialization, but it’s a good place to be social once they’ve learned.

Here is a quick, short list that will guide you on when you should not go to the dog park.  Don’t go if your furry buddy:

  • Isn’t vaccinated or doesn’t have flea and tick protection, or is not feeling well
  • Isn’t spayed or neutered
  • Is what the ASPCA calls a “dog dork.” These are dogs that just don’t know how to interact, no matter how hard they try. Other canines may find them just as annoying as puppies.

See how your dog behaves on leash.

Barking, pulling, whining, and lunging are all inappropriate ways to respond when your dog sees another dog on a leash. He must be non-reactive and calm when he sees or is approached by another dog.  When leashed dogs meet, there should be no jumping on each other or intensity, just calm sniffing.

Introduce your dog to other dogs on leash first.

If your dog and another dog are introduced leashed, you are right there and can step in if the other dog comes on too aggressively.

This will allow your dog to see you are in control and hopefully he’ll turn to you at the dog park instead of trying to resolve issues himself.  You don’t want to put him in harm’s way in the case that the other dog is aggressive or reactive.

Before the Park: Preparation is Key

Proper training is the single most important thing to have mastered before heading to the park.

An untrained dog can run into trouble at an off-leash dog park. There might be challenging behaviors like aggressive sniffing, humping, and toy stealing that will inevitably end up in fights. The scariest bad behavior of all is a dog who bolts off leash because dogs who aren’t trained properly tend to get very excited to be unleashed.  Once the leash drops, the dog will take off like a lit rocket, and this is not a good way to allow your dog to react.  You are inadvertently teaching him that bolting is okay. There is the obvious danger of him running into the street or parking lot, and also there is the probable chance that your dog could scare other dogs or people with his fast approach and high energy.

So how do you cope with an excited dog at the park?

Practice letting your dog off leash at home first.

When you take the leash off of your dog, he should be sitting calmly. Your dog should be able to stay and not move until you say it’s okay.  Once you have the sit/stay process mastered, you can move outside.

Take your dog to a fenced-in area that isn’t necessarily a dog park.

Take your pup to a place where that is fenced in and he can be off leash so that he can get accustomed to it.  It could be a playground or a tennis court. (But please be sure that your dog has already had a ‘bathroom break’ first.)

Make sure your dog is 100% reliable before visiting unfenced parks.

For fenced-in parks, a 50% recall reliability is probably sufficient enough, but for off-leash parks without a fence, you need 100% reliability to keep your dog safe. You can attain this with practice at home first, which is a calmer environment than outside.

Do’s and Don’ts While at the Park

When you get to the park, don’t let your dog run wild. Make sure you’re following the rules so that not only your dog, but every dog can enjoy the park.

Stay off your phone and pay attention. 

Once inside, it’s your job to keep an eye out for your dog and the other dogs. Dog parks not for human socialization, so always know where your four-legged friend is and what he’s doing. If you see trouble brewing, call him back right away. If your dog is being bullied by another dog, you need to intervene before a fight breaks out.

And let’s not forget, you need to pick up your dog’s poop, too!  Know when your dog has pooped so you can scoop, too. Many parks provide plastic bags, but it can’t hurt to take your own.

 Ensure that your dog knows basic commands.  

Always be the alpha in your relationship with your dog

It is important that your dog knows recall commands like “come” and also commands like “leave it”, so practice these before you go to the dog park.  Your dog may run into other animals at the park like squirrels, raccoons, gophers, etc., and you don’t want him near those animals, dead or alive.

Take charge.                  

Your dog needs to know that you’re the alpha animal all the time. That’s key when other canines are around, so teach your pal to come to you when called. Use a word or phrase he’s not likely to hear at the park and reward him with extra-special treats during training.

 

Make sure your dog isn’t resource guarding.  Resource guarding is when a dog controls access to food, objects, people and locations that are important to him through defensive body language or overtly aggressive display.  Resource guarding is a relatively common canine behavior and is influenced by a number of environmental and situational stimuli, including a dog’s natural instinct to survive. Toys and treats can make some dogs get aggressive or possessive, so if you want to bring a ball to the park make sure that your dog is playing fair. Also, be sure that he isn’t trying to steal another dog’s toys.  He will need to know how to share when he’s at the dog park.

Good commands to master here are “leave it” or “off” so your dog knows when to back away.

Make sure your dog has other opportunities to exercise.  

Do not use the dog park as a substitute for the walk! If you drive to the park, leave your car a block away and take your dog on a vigorous walk of at least 10 to 15 minutes to drain some of his energy. Never take an over-excited dog to the park.

Smaller dogs need their own space at the dog park.

Small dogs need special consideration.                

Try to find a dog park with a small dog section, or with specific small-dog playtimes. It’s so easy for a little guy to get overwhelmed, not to mention bowled over, by larger dogs. Keep your small dog on the ground rather than toting him around with you in the park. Being elevated can either give a dog a false sense of control because of the elevated position and close human backup, or entice other dogs to jump up at the dog being held to get a closer sniff.

Manage your dog’s water intake.

Be sure that your dog stays well hydrated as he will be active during his park visit.  Take a portable water bottle for dogs so that he can drink when he needs to, but watch his intake so that he doesn’t over drink.

After the Park

When playtime is over and it’s time to head home, you’ll want to:

Give rewards and praise before you leash up and leave.

Be sure to give your dog treats and praise him  when he comes to you as you get ready to leave. Delay your departure a bit while you praise him and reward him for his good behavior.  This will ensure that he doesn’t feel punished for coming when called by immediately leaving the park.

The Bottom Line

Training is key to making your trip to the dog park a success—and of course, practice makes perfect!

These dogs are playing; there is no aggression.

Read the signals. Not only should your dog play well with others if you plan to take him to the park, you need to be able to read canine behavior. Dogs at play have relaxed ears, wagging tails, and may “play bow” with their front end down to the ground and their butt up in the air. Upset hounds hold their tails at half-mast or between their legs. Their ears are pinned back, and their pupils shrink so you can see the whites of their eyes. A dog that’s ready to rumble will be tense, hold his head high, and lean forward. His ears will point up or forward, too. While growls are common in play, snarling with lips curled back isn’t. If you see these danger signs, redirect your dog with treats or a toy. You can also clap or make a loud noise to distract him from his subject of focus. Use treats and toys only when needed in a dog park, in case they spark trouble in regard to sharing.

Know what to do if a fight breaks out. Despite your best efforts, it can happen. Make sure you’re ready.

  • Give it a moment. Most doggie duels end as quickly as they started.
  • If they go at it for more than a few seconds, try to squirt them with a hose or water pistol, or use a long stick to push them apart. Don’t step in with your hands or body.
  • If they’re still fighting, you and the other owner should approach the dogs from the rear. Gently grab their back legs at the top of the leg and lift them up like a wheelbarrow then start moving back and steadily pull them apart. Don’t reach for the collar. Your dog could bite you by reflex.

Use the”wheelbarrow method” to separate fighting dogs

  • It’s important to note that if your dog is on leash and he gets into a fight with a dog off-leash, drop the leash before you or the dog become tangled in it. If two leashed dogs get into a fight, drop the leashes and use the wheelbarrow method.

Dogs don’t usually go straight for a fight, but will give each other warning signs first. The best outcome is for them to work out their troubles and retreat before getting too aggressive.

Dogs don’t naturally resolve their issues by immediately fighting. It is a last resort and often lasts only moments, until one animal gets the message and agrees to back off. Not every physical interaction between dogs is indicative of them fighting. Dog play can look just as intimidating, so it is important to watch the body language and be alert to any warning signs of fighting.  Please see my article on Understanding Your Dog’s Body Language for more information.

Another thing to remember is that not every dog enjoys being in a dog park, and not every dog park is appropriate for your dog, and this is why it’s important to know your dog’s temperament and moods.

If you are able to recognize healthy dog behavior, and others around you are able to as well, a dog park can be a truly lovely experience for you and your pup. All it takes is understanding dog park etiquette.  Knowing when to intervene, when to take a time out, and when to leave are crucial to a pleasant park experience.

May 01

Why Do Dogs Pant?

Why Does My Dog Pant?

If you have a dog, you definitely know what panting looks like. It’s when your dog breathes in and out rapidly with his tongue hanging out. Typically, your dog pants after being active. After playing an active game of fetch with your dog, you typically both relax in the shade. While you fan yourself and drink a cool glass of lemonade, your dog pants and slurps water out of a bowl. You are actually doing the same thing: using your body’s natural, instinctual functions to cool off.

Most people know that panting helps their dogs stay cool. But have you ever wondered just how exactly panting works? Read on to learn how panting helps regulate body temperature, and the difference between normal panting and signs of illness or injury.

The Scoop on Panting

Have you noticed that your dog pants on warmer days and after physical exertion? That’s because panting is your dog’s primary means of thermoregulation. Thermoregulation is the ability of an organism to keep its body temperature within certain boundaries. Humans thermoregulate by sweating (and sometimes panting, too). As we heat up, our bodies produce perspiration which evaporates and cools our skin, lowering our overall body temperature.

It’s a common misunderstanding that dogs don’t sweat at all. Actually, dogs do have sweat glands on their paw pads and nose, and will sweat to help regulate skin function and release heat in those areas.  However, sweat plays a very small part in their thermoregulation.

Think of it this way: the nose and paws make up a very small percentage of a dog’s overall surface area, most of which is covered with fur.  In order to cool their entire furry body, dogs need a more efficient way to expel heat. That’s where panting plays an important part.

When your dog needs to cool down, his tongue may hang out of her mouth, and his breathing will speed up. Dogs have a typical resting respiratory rate of 18 to 34 breaths per minute, but this rate can get significantly faster while panting. Panting moves hot, moisture-filled air in and out, increasing moisture evaporation in the mucous membranes of the nasal passages, mouth, and lungs. This cools the body from the inside out.

The speed and pattern of your dog’s panting will change depending on the needs of his body. According to a report by veterinarian Jerilee Zezula, “Inhalation and exhalation first occurs through the nose entirely (rate is increased), then inhalation through the nose and exhalation through the nose and mouth, and, finally, both inhalation and exhalation through the nose and mouth with the tongue further extended as cooling needs demand.” In other words, the hotter your dog is, the faster and harder he will pant.

A panting dog can take 300 to 400 breaths per minute, yet it requires surprisingly little effort.  Because of the natural elasticity of the lungs and airways, panting does not expend much energy, nor does it create additional heat.

You may have noticed that sometimes your dog will pause in his panting to take a deep breath, then continue with short, rapid breathing. That’s because panting is not an effective means of exchanging air in the lungs. That panting pause is your dog taking a good respiratory breath, helping to maintain oxygen levels in the blood.

Panting moves hot, moisture-filled air in and out, increasing moisture evaporation and cooling your dog from the inside out.  Please refer to my article Hot Weather Pet Care to get tips on how to keep your dog cool in the hot weather months.

Other Reasons for Panting

Dogs Pant When Anxious or Stressed

Panting may have nothing to do with body temperature. Many dogs will pant when they experience fear, anxiety, or stress. Examples include car rides,  fireworks, rides, separation anxiety, vet visits and other stressful events. Look at your dog’s body language to get a better idea of the problem. Please check out my article Understanding Your Dog’s Body Language, dated March 28, 2017.

Understanding the cause of fear or anxiety in your dog can help you minimize these incidents. If panting seems to be related to fear, anxiety or stress, it’s best to remove your dog from the situation as soon as you can.

Dogs Pant When Excited or Happy

Panting may simply be a sign of happiness in your dog. If so, the rest of your dog’s body language will reflect this happy mood. The tail will usually be wagging in a happy way. Your dog’s body and facial features will be somewhat relaxed. The eyes will appear bright and happy. Once things calm down, the panting will likely slow down and may eventually stop. Continued mild panting with an open mouth and bright eyes is normal in a relaxed, content dog. In fact, many people consider this to be a doggie smile!

Dogs Pant When in Pain or Sick

Panting may be a sign of discomfort. Dogs are very good at hiding pain and illness from humans, and some dogs try harder than others to hide their discomfort. However, once they reach a certain level of discomfort they often cannot help but pant.  Look for other signs of illness or pain, such as vomiting, loss of appetite, diarrhea, lethargy, limping, and behavior changes. Contact your veterinarian if you suspect that your dog is sick or injured.

If at any time you see that panting is extremely intense and cannot be explained, you should get your dog to the nearest veterinarian immediately.

When Panting is Abnormal

Most of the time, panting is a regular part of your dog’s body functions. But panting can also be a sign of injury or illness. Call your vet if your dog exhibits:

  •  Panting that starts suddenly without physical exertion, seemingly “out of nowhere”
  •  Panting that is constant and intense
  •  Panting accompanied by wheezing, coughing, or other unusual sounds
  •  Panting accompanied by excessive drool and lethargy, which are signs of heat stroke
  •  Panting accompanied by a pale or blue-ish tongue and gums, a sign your pet may not be getting enough oxygen

The best way to tell the difference between plain old panting and something more serious is to simply pay attention to your dog. Notice his breathing rate while he’s resting, and after a normal exercise session. The better you get to know your dog’s regular breathing patterns, the more able you’ll be to spot inconsistencies.

The way your dog’s body works to cool itself off with panting is incredible! The next time your dog pants after a romp in the yard, sit back and marvel at his amazing anatomy.

Apr 24

Why Do Dogs Eat Grass?

Why Does My Dog Eat Grass?

Grass-Eating Is a Common Occurrence in Dogs

Many dog owners usually feel alarmed whenever they see their fur-baby chewing on their lawn. But the truth is that grass eating, a behavior technically known as “pica,” or eating things that are not characterized as food, is quite common among dogs.

Researchers have concluded that grass eating is a common behavior that usually occurs in normal dogs and is generally not associated with illness or dietary needs. They go on to suggest that grass eating may reflect an innate predisposition inherited from dogs’ wild ancestors. This is supported by research on droppings left by wolves. Such research finds evidence of grass in 11 to 47% of the stool samples studied. The usefulness of grass eating in these wild canines is that it can help to purge intestinal parasites. The plant material passes through the intestinal tract and the fibrous matter increases the intestinal contractions and wraps around the worms or nematodes which may be infecting the animal. In this way the grass helps to purge the system of these potentially harmful parasites. Although most pet dogs are free of such worms they nonetheless may still have that predisposition to eat grass, which was helpful to their ancestors living in the wild.

As is the case with so many canine behavior questions, it isn’t 100% clear why dogs eat grass, and there may be multiple reasons. One reasonable answer is that they like it. One study found that puppies eat grass more commonly than older dogs, indicating that there may be a playful aspect to the blade-chomping, as well. Puppies like to put everything in their mouths, and grass is no exception. They may find out that the taste and texture are pleasant and carry the habit through their lifetime.

Eating Grass Is a Normal Dog Behavior

Dogs know what they need to consume. And in fact, biologists have told us that all canids — dogs and wild dogs (wolves, coyotes, dingoes, etc.) — consume grass and it’s a completely normal behavior.

Dogs Eat Grass When They Suffer From Gastrointestinal Upset

An interesting question, along the lines of the “chicken or the egg” premise is this:

“Do dogs eat grass to make themselves vomit, or do they vomit because they ate grass?”

Dogs do not have the means to easily digest grass, as they lack the enzymes needed to break down the fibers.  One reason for eating grass may be due to a feeling of nausea. It is possible that dogs learn this is a temporary solution for stomach irritation.

Most pet parents are well aware that dogs will, on occasion, eat large amounts of grass in an attempt to make themselves throw up. When they exhibit this behavior, it tends to be almost frantic.

They’ll whimper and cry to be let out, then they’ll run outside and start eating any grass they can find; they’re not selective.

After they consume a large amount of grass, they’ll often times lick their lips because they’re nauseous, and then they’ll vomit. It’s completely normal for your dog to vomit occasionally (like people do when they are ill), meaning one or two times a year.  Most often it’s nothing to worry about and your dog knows what’s best in terms of intentionally voiding their system of something that could be toxic, or making them unwell.

Although there is a lack of solid evidence that grass-eating is directly related to a dog self-curing, Petmd.com says that it does seem like dogs will seek out a natural remedy for a gassy or upset stomach, and grass may do the trick: “When ingested, the grass blade tickles the throat and stomach lining.  This sensation, in turn, may cause the dog to vomit, especially if the grass is gulped down rather than chewed.”

If your dog occasionally eats grass and is sick afterwards, he is just self-medicating.  If your dog eats grass and is sick on a regular basis, then it is important to have a discussion with your vet.

Dogs May Feed on Grass Simply Because They Want To

Simply put, some dogs eat grass because they want to.  If you let your dog out the back door and it looks like she’s having a great time running around when all of a sudden you see her on a mission, sniffing and specifically seeking out tall, broad grasses, or searching for a certain patch of grass, she may be looking for a truly organic treat.  She may use her front teeth to nibble and eat a few strands of the selected grass with an unhurried intention and then go on about her way. Do not, EVER, let your dog munch on grass that has been treated with toxic chemicals!!

You can provide a safe alternative by growing a grass or herb garden specifically for your pup to snack on. There are organic grass growing kits available for dogs and cats who instinctively chew and eat grass, and they provide a safe, healthy alternative to eating outdoor grass.

Grass Has Nutrients Your Dog May Need

Some researchers believe that the grasses your dog is seeking out probably contains some nutritional value that your dog is seeking. We know that grass contains an abundant source of fiber or roughage, for instance, and we know that since grass is a living green food it contains phytonutrients and is high in potassium and also chlorophyll. Grasses are also a pretty good source of digestive enzymes.

So your dog could be seeking out selective grasses to make up for one of these nutritional components that they’re currently not getting in their diet.

Some dogs may also eat grass because they are under-fed, don’t have access to adequate food or are just plain bored. But, in the majority of cases, even if your dog is well fed and well cared for, she will still selectively pick out certain grasses just for their nutritional health benefits.

What to Do if Your Dog Eats Grass Often

As mentioned earlier, many dogs will eat grass to make themselves vomit, but if your dog is doing this on a frequent basis it’s a sign that her system may be off kilter.

In this case, you absolutely need to check with your vet and discuss the problem.  You may also need to reevaluate their diet, as frequent gastrointestinal upset is often a sign that something is wrong with the food that you’re feeding.

It may be a great quality food, one your dog has been eating for years with no trouble. But if your dog begins vomiting up grass and food several times a week or even weekly, this is not normal.

After consulting with your vet, I would recommend switching brands of food, switching flavors and switching protein sources.  Most importantly, if your dog has been eating the same diet for most of his life, you will need to make the transition gradually.

Important To Remember:

Grass eating is a common occurrence in dogs.

Researchers have found that grass eating in normal dogs is generally not associated with illness or dietary needs.

Dogs sometimes eat grass when they have digestive upsets and are seeking out a natural remedy for a gassy or upset stomach.

If you dog is eating grass and vomiting on frequent basis it’s a sign that her system may be off kilter.

If your dog occasionally eats grass and is sick afterwards, she is just self-medicating.  If your dog eats grass and is sick on a regular basis, then it is important to have a discussion with your vet.

Dog sometimes eat grass because they like to!

Never let your dog eat grass when it has been treated with any toxic chemicals!!

***So it’s important to recognize that you don’t have to prevent your dog from eating grass occasionally unless you have treated grass or your grass has pesticides, herbicides, and chemicals on it. You can help protect your grass eater by using only non-toxic products on your own lawn. When you’re out in public areas, keep an eye out for signs warning that chemicals have been used on the grass.  If you think that your dog may be suffering from poisoning caused by lawn treatments, call the  ASPCA’s 24/7 Animal Poison Control hotline at (888) 426-4435.

 

Apr 10

Choosing Durable Chew Toys For Your Dog

Choosing Durable Chew Toys For Your Dog

Although a dog’s chewing may sometimes seem like bad behavior, it has a number of benefits for your dog’s health and well-being.  For dogs, chewing is a natural stress-busting activity. Chewing releases endorphins from a dog’s brain which are the “feel good” chemicals we all have in our bodies. Dogs that chew regularly have access to a great, natural way of self-soothing. Chew toys and Kongs are also a useful way to keep dogs busy, divert them into some quiet time, and it relieves their anxiety.

First and Foremost: Always Buy USA!

Are all dog toys made in China unsafe?

According to the reports from APPA (American Pet Products Association), only some manufacturers use ingredients in making dog toys that may be toxic to dogs. However, because the regulations in China on manufacturing toys for pets are very loose, buying cheap ones from there may expose your dog to high risk.

Generally, it’s safe to say that the majority of dog toys made in the USA are safe for puppies and adult dogs. However, some companies outsource manufacturing of their dog supplies, and especially toys for dogs. All of the dog chew toys listed below are made in the USA.

Your Dog’s Safety is Key
Although durability and the ‘fun factor’ are obviously important for your dog, safety is paramount when it comes to choosing toys.  You don’t want your pup ingesting broken pieces of the toy, possibly causing internal damage.

Toughness is obviously important in the safety of a chew toy, but it also shouldn’t be too hard and put too much pressure on your dog’s teeth either.

Also important is the chew toy’s material composition. Always opt for non-toxic materials, as the toy will be spending a good amount of time in your dog’s mouth. In the case that your dog might be swallowing pieces of the toy, it should be made of non-toxic materials.

Things pet owners should watch out for is BPA, philates, lead and other toxic ingredients such as Cadmium, Chromium, Arsenic and Plasticizers. Lead is one of the most used and most harmful ingredients found in inexpensive pet toys. Chemicals commonly found in pet toys have been linked to reproductive problems, developmental and learning disabilities, liver toxicity, and cancer in children (pets have never been tested).

Fortunately, regulations in the USA on manufacturing pet toys and toys for children are very strict, and most of the harmful substances have been banned, as per CPSC (Consumer Product Safety Commission).

Provide Toys With Your Dog’s Safety In Mind

It is important to keep an eye on your canine companion as they chew to ensure no real damage, to the toy or your pup, is happening.  If you see small parts breaking from the toy, take it from him immediately and throw everything away so that he does not eat them.

Nothing Is Really Indestructible
Many dog toys are labeled as ‘indestructible’ nowadays and it’s easy to fall for the persuasive sales pitch.  Read reviews and choose the best durable toy based on the advice of other pet parents.

Toys to Avoid For a Heavy Chewer

Avoid Plush and Stuffed Toys                                                                                                                               Make sure that you avoid stuffed toys or those made of a plush outer material. Their durability is close to non-existent if you have a strong chewer.  From a safety perspective, plush toys are not recommended, as an aggressive chewer can easily swallow the stuffing.

Squeakers
Tread with even more caution if there’s a squeaker stuffed inside; they are a clear choking hazard if the toy is pulled apart.

Vinyl and Latex Don’t Make the Grade Either
Though vinyl is a little tougher than latex, we wouldn’t consider either material tough enough to withstand dogs who chew hard.  They, too, often come stuffed with squeakers so it’s best to steer clear of these types of toys.

So What Should Dog Toys For Heavy Chewers Be Made Of?

The Top Pick is Hard Rubber Chew Toys
Although indestructible chew toys don’t exist, some can last many months and quality hard rubber toys are easily the best candidates, being the most durable toys on the market.

You may already be familiar with the Kong brand. Although a little more expensive than lower quality toys, they are one of the most trusted brands on the market for their safe and durable products, and they also have a big product selection to choose from.

Strong, Fibrous Rope Style Toys
Rope-style chew toys are a good bet, especially from a durability point of view.

Their fibrous material is tested and proven to be strong enough to withstand vigorous chewing, while also being good for cleaning your dog’s teeth. And, good news for busy owners, they’re easy to wash which is important because many dog toys end up extremely smelly after days, or more, of being subjected to dog slobber and being thrown around outside.

Look for cotton rope toys that are thick with a substantial number of threads, as this will provide a tough durability.

Quality Costs More, But Is The Best Choice
The temptation to opt for cheaper plush or vinyl toys is understandable, but remember that from a safety and durability angle, they simply don’t make the grade against the superior hard rubber toys.

Quality toys will stand the test of time over a number of months and years, rather than being destroyed within minutes or hours of bringing them home from the pet store.

A single high quality toy that lasts a year is so much better, and cheaper, than buying a $5 toy every month that only lasts a day or two.  You must also keep in mind the safety of the quality toy as compared to the cheaper toy.

Quality costs more – but saves in the long run!

Best Indestructible Dog Toys For Aggressive Chewers

The Original – And Still The Best – Tough Dog Toys From Kong
A Kong is a great way to encourage safe chewing. Getting into the habit of giving a stuffed Kong or chew before you leave for work is a great way to make a positive association with you leaving your dog alone. Dogs that dislike being left alone can be given a Kong as a distraction, so they can be used as a tool for mild separation anxiety.

Toys like Kongs and are a great way to express natural behaviors, like chewing, scavenging, and working for food. Using food as a game is much more fun than eating out of a bowl. For dogs that are home alone while you are at work,  or who need distraction while guests are visiting, a chew toy is a great tool. To simplify things, you can freeze a selection of Kongs so you have a few ready to go at short notice.

Kong Extreme Dog Toy – Ultra-strong, Ultra-Durable

Made using carbon Black Ultra-Flex™, the Extreme is puncture-resistant and about as indestructible as a dog toy can be.

It’s non-toxic too and can even be stuffed with treats, which is guaranteed to keep a heavy chewer occupied.  For this reason, the Kong is recommended for owners about to start crate training with their dogs.

The Extreme also doubles up as an interactive toy to help you get involved in playtime. It has an unpredictable bounce on it due to its curved design, which is perfect for games of fetch with playful pups.

Kong Wobbler Toy – Tough AND Mentally Stimulating

Living up to its name, the Wobbler toy is great thing for your dog as they try to control it and stop it from wobbling, falling over and rolling away from them.

Primarily a food dispenser, the Wobbler can be stuffed with your dog’s kibble or favorite treat and will occupy him for hours on end.

As always with Kong toys, durability and toughness is guaranteed with the US-made Wobbler.

The real stand-out feature, however, is the fact your dog will be mentally and physically stimulated with the effort needed to retrieve the food and treats, so boredom and destructive chewing will not develop.

The Wobbler is dishwasher safe and also has an easy twist off dispenser so that you will easily be able to put the treats inside.

Kong – Dog Toys Goodie Bone Extreme Durability

Much like the original Extreme toy, the Extreme Goodie Bone is incredibly durable and tough, and is perfect for the most aggressive of chewers.

Shaped like a bone and made of super strong natural rubber, the Extreme Goodie Bone can also be stuffed with treats to keep a dog’s mind busy, trying to work the treats out.

Made in the US of non-toxic materials, the Extreme Goodie Bone is also puncture resistant.

One of the most interesting features of the toy is the patented ‘Goodie Grippers’ to be found at each end of the bone where you can stuff the toy with treats.  The ‘Goodie Grippers’ make it harder for your dog to retrieve the food, which serves to increase the effort, both mental and physical.

Kong Squeezz Toy – Strong Squeaky Chew and Throw Stick

Doggie parents already know that dogs love squeaky toys.  Although, as mentioned earlier, toys with squeakers can become choking hazards if a dog manages to rip them apart, Kong toys are tough enough to withstand the most aggressive of chewers.  The Squeez Stick protects and recesses its squeaker very well.

This is more of an interactive throw and fetch toy than a standard chew toy.  Made of non-toxic, thermo-plastic rubber, it is chewy and durable while also able to bounce unpredictably – and it floats on water too!

The Squeezz toys come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors so you have plenty of options to find the perfect one for your dog.

Jolly Pets Romp-n-Roll 8 Inch Ball With Rope

An especially sturdy ball, the ‘Jolly’ brand was initially started up to create ball toys for horses, so it has a proven track record of creating products that stand up against strong teeth and hard chewing.

After discovering how popular the balls were with heavy-chewing dog owners, a little tinkering helped them  to adapt the product to dogs’ wants and needs and they’ve been appreciated by dogs and their owners ever since.

The Jolly Ball with Rope is designed to be kicked, tugged, thrown, carried and launched, all of which equals a great ball toy for playing with outside.

It won’t deflate if your dog does puncture it and it also floats, which is ideal for doggie swimmers.

Made of non-toxic Polyethylene plastic and sturdy rope for ‘tug and toss’ games, this toy is heavy duty and durable.

The Jolly Pet Balls are available in a variety of sizes and bright colors so that you can find the perfect fit for your pup.

GoughNuts Guaranteed Indestructible Dog Chew Toy

The GoughNuts toy is an ideal throw toy for aggressive powerful chewers and is made in the US by mechanical and polymer engineers.  So confident are the inventors in the strength of their product that they guarantee the indestructibility of the toy and are willing to replace it if your dog manages to chew through the tough outer layer.

GoughNuts have created a safety system within their product line whereby if your dog is chewing hard on the black colored outer material, that means they can continue to ‘GoughNuts’ safely, but if they manage to chew through the black to the inner red colored material, the toy should be taken away and replaced.

And if your dog chews through to the red layer, GoughNuts will replace the toy free of charge!

The toy also floats, so it is a fun addition to your play routine if your pup is a happy swimmer.

Planet Dog Orbee–Tuff SnowBall

The US-made Orbee-Tuff SnowBall is incredibly tough and durable, so much so that Planet Dog is prepared to 100% guarantee its toughness “any time, every time”.

The ball has a mint aroma and rough textured surface that makes chewing enjoyable for your dog, and it serves as an interactive play ball with the ability to bounce and also float in water.

Hollow on the inside, the ball has two small ventilation holes on the side that allow the ball to squish down once it’s bitten on and then bounce back into position once it’s been released so there’s no need to worry about your dog wearing his teeth down on hard plastic.

*** When choosing a ball for your dog, pick one that is large enough for your dog to carry without accidentally swallowing it.  Be aware that a smaller sized ball can easily be accidentally swallowed by your dog, and he could choke on it!!

Tips To Remember

To help prevent destructive chewing, it’s best to invest in some high-quality, durable toys that your dog can chew on instead.

Be sure to buy toys of appropriate size for your dog. Toys that are too small can easily be swallowed or become lodged in your dog’s throat.  Toys that are too large can cause strain on your dog’s jaw and teeth.

Supervise your dog’s play with squeaky toys.  Your dog may feel that they must find and destroy the source of the squeaking, which means they could ingest it if they are left unwatched.

Avoid or alter any toys that aren’t “dog-proof” by removing ribbons, strings, eyes or other parts that could be chewed off and/or ingested. Discard toys that start to break into pieces or are torn.

Rotate your dog’s toys weekly by making only a few toys available at a time. Keep a variety of types easily accessible. If your dog has a favorite, like a soft comfort toy, you may want to leave it out all the time.

Provide toys that serve a variety of purposes — give your dog at least one toy to carry, one to shake, one to roll and one for comfort.

“Found” toys are often much more attractive than toys that are obviously introduced. Hide some of his toys because a game of finding toys or treats is a good rainy-day activity for your dog, using up energy without the need for a lot of space.

Many of your dog’s toys should be interactive. Interactive play is very important for your dog because they need active “people time”, which enhances the bond between you and your pet. Try balls, fetch sticks, flying disks and other toys that help foster the bond between person and pet.

By focusing on a specific task—such as repeatedly returning a ball, Kong, or Frisbee® or playing “hide-and-seek” with treats or toys — your dog can expend pent-up mental and physical energy from boredom in a limited amount of time and space. For young, high-energy and untrained dogs, interactive play also offers an opportunity for socialization and helps them learn about appropriate and inappropriate behavior, such as jumping up or barking excessively.

*About Rawhide
If you’re thinking about giving your dog rawhide chew toys, be sure to check with your veterinarian about which ones are safe and appropriate for your dog. These toys may pose choking hazards, so give them to your dog only when you can supervise them.

Given the amount of rawhide consumed by dogs each year, the risks are relatively small. Still, risks can be serious, so don’t ignore them. Weigh the risks and benefits of giving rawhides based upon your dog’s chewing needs and behaviors.

These are the most common rawhide risks:

·Contamination. As with pet toys, rawhide chews can contain trace amounts of toxic chemicals. And, as with other pet (or human) foods, Salmonella or E. coli contamination is possible. Even humans can be at risk when coming into contact with these bacteria on rawhide treats.

·Digestive irritation. Some dogs are simply sensitive or allergic to rawhide or other substances used in their manufacture. This can cause problems, including diarrhea.

·Choking or blockages. Rawhide bones and other edible chews can pose a choking and blockage risk. In fact, this is a much bigger risk than contamination or digestive irritation. If your dog swallows large pieces of rawhide, the rawhide can get stuck in the esophagus or other parts of the digestive tract. Depending on its size and where it is located, a vet may be able to remove these pieces fairly easily through the throat. But sometimes, abdominal surgery is needed to remove them from the stomach or intestines. If it isn’t resolved, a blockage can lead to death.

· Ask your vet about how much is safe to give your dog. The general rule is the smaller the dog, the fewer the chews. Especially at first, give one at a time. Then wait a day to see how your dog’s intestinal system responds.

·Separate your dog from other pets so he or she can relax while chewing. This way, your dog will be less likely to gulp large pieces whole. Doing this might be especially important if you have a dog that is very territorial around food.

·Offer different types of rawhide, but only when you can supervise and see how your dog is handling the treat. Is he swallowing big bites? Is he starting to gag or choke? If so, take the treat away and check with your vet about other types of rawhide or other types of chew treats or toys.

·Take the rawhide chew away from your dog once it is small enough to swallow whole. If it is hard to get your dog to give up the rawhide chew, try asking him to sit and then offer another type of treat for diversion.

Contact your veterinarian if your dog has signs such as:

  • Gagging
  • Regurgitation
  • Repeated swallowing
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea, with or without blood
  • Fever
  • Lack of energy
  • Signs of pain
  • Refusal to eat or weight loss

Remember:
Avoid plush, stuffed toys as well as vinyl or latex, and stay away from  products made with toxic materials.

It’s cost efficient and safer to start thinking of a chew toy as an investment for a number of months or years, so focus on quality materials and fun features that your dog can’t help but love.

You can’t go wrong with hard rubber and sturdy cotton rope and, if in doubt, always opt for the ultra-durable Kong brand!   And, ALWAYS buy USA-made products!!!!

Hopefully, you’re now equipped with the knowledge to help you choose the perfect chew toy for your dog.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Apr 03

Joint Care for Dogs

Joint Care for Dogs

Dogs, like humans, can develop joint problems during their lifetime. Sometimes, issues are caused by an acute injury, but often joint problems are the result of some form of joint disease. While the disease may start to develop during the first half of a dog’s life, you may not see the signs until later in life. To help maintain your furry friend’s quality of life, you need to know the signs and possible causes of joint pain and different ways to relieve the pain. It is also beneficial to understand the value of joint supplements in supporting overall joint health and to be aware of other ways you can take the pressure off your pup’s aging joints.

Signs of Joint Pain in Dogs

We need to realize that dogs have evolved to hide their pain from their ‘parents’. In a pack setting, showing signs of pain could lead to being left behind by the group, as any weakness becomes a liability for the pack as a whole.  While many pet parents see a significant improvement in their dog’s mobility after signs of pain are present and then treated, the best medicine in this scenario is prevention, before the pain begins.

As a dog begins to develop joint pain, they may show a reluctance to play or engage in normal activities. Climbing up and down stairs may become more difficult, and your pup may be avoiding the stairs or taking longer going up or down. At times, you might notice your canine pal limping or favoring a limb, especially after resting or sleeping. With more severe pain, your dog may have difficulty rising. Sometimes, you will be able to detect swelling around a joint or will notice your dog shows pain when you touch an affected joint. Signs of pain vary depending on the type and severity of joint disease.

Causes of Dog Joint Pain

There are a number of diseases that can affect dog joints and lead to pain. Sometimes, pain is the result of an acute injury that improves with appropriate treatment and care. Other joint pain is caused by congenital disorders or a degenerative process and require a long-term approach to care and treatment. The more common conditions are:

Osteoarthritis
Osteoarthritis is the most common form of arthritis in dogs. In this type of arthritis, the cartilage in the joint deteriorates leaving no cushion between the bones. As the bones come in direct contact with one another, they become damaged, and the joint no longer moves smoothly. The body responds with an inflammatory response that affects the joint fluid. The fluid becomes thinner and loses it’s ability to lubricate and cushion the joint. Over time, the joint capsule becomes inflamed, and the dog shows pain.

Hip Dysplasia
Hip Dysplasia is an inherited condition that leads to a degenerative arthritis in the hip. Dogs born with dysplasia are born with a shallow hip socket and a weakness of the connective tissue, muscles and ligaments that normally provide stability to the hip joint. As a result, the femoral head moves too freely in the shallow cup and causes damage to the cartilage. This condition leads to degenerative changes in the joint and creates pain

Elbow Dysplasia
Elbow Dyspalsia is usually seen in large-breed puppies when they are in the rapid growth stage. When puppies are first born, many of the bones start as pieces of bone joined together with cartilage. During the growth phase, the cartilage changes to bone, and the pieces fuse into one bone. If the bones involved in the elbow joint do not fuse properly, or if the bones do not grow at the same rate, one or more conditions may occur that result in pain and lameness in one or both of the front legs. There may be an abnormality of the cartilage and underlying bone known as osteochondrosis, elbow incongruity, a fragmentation of the medial coronoid process of the ulna, or an ununited anconeal process of the ulna. Over time, any combination of the above conditions results in damage to the joint and accompanying pain.

Panosteitis
Panosteitis is another condition most common in young, large breed dogs. Panosteitis is a disease of the bones in which there is excess growth and restructuring of the bone. It usually occurs in the limbs and results in elongation of the bones and accompanying pain. The cause is not yet known. When a dog develops panosteitis, they show sudden lameness that may shift from one leg to another. There will be no known injuries, and the lameness resolves in about 2-3 weeks. Panosteitis usually occurs between 6-18 months of age but may also occur in middle-aged German Shepherds.

Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy
Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy also affects large breed dogs in their rapid growth stage, around 3-6 months of age. When this disease strikes, the leg bone growth plates show swelling and pain. During the course of the disease, a pup will show signs of lameness, usually in a pair of legs, may be reluctant to move or eat, and may have a fever. The cause of this disease is currently unknown.

Osteochondritis Dissecans
Osteochondritis Dissecans (OCD) is a disease of the cartilage that usually affects larger breed dogs between the ages of 4-10 months. With this disease, cartilage in a joint becomes damaged or shows abnormal growth so that the surface between the bones is not smooth. The cartilage separates from the bone or cracks. It may also form a loose flap. Sometimes, a piece of cartilage will break loose and float in the joint. Because the cartilage surface is damaged, joint movement is painful. When a dog develops OCD, they will show lameness in the affected limb that can range from a slight limp to not bearing any weight on that limb. The extent of the lameness depends on the severity of the damage.

Pain Relief for Dogs

If your special friend is showing signs of joint pain, there are several ways to help relieve the pain. You can give your pup pain medications formulated to be safe for dogs to help provide immediate relief. To manage pain long-term, there are a number of supplements available to help your canine pal.

When you first notice signs of pain in your dog, you want to bring relief as soon as possible. To help alleviate the acute or initial pain, there are two basic classes of pain relieving drugs: Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) and corticocosteroids. You will need to discuss with your veterinarian which form of pain relief is most suitable for your dog.

NSAIDs work by reducing the level of prostaglandins released in the affected area. Because prostaglandins cause pain and inflammation, the decrease allows dogs to move more easily. NSAIDs for dogs are only available as prescriptions because they have potential side effects and need to be properly dosed and monitored.

In the case of acute pain or emergency situations, you may need to start with a course of corticosteroids. The body produces natural steroids in small quantities to regulate various functions in the body. Pharmaceutical corticosteroids are more concentrated and have powerful anti-inflammatory effects. They also have many undesirable side effects, so they are best used in emergencies or when other products are not able to relieve the pain.

When your pup has a long-term condition like arthritis or hip dysplasia that produces chronic pain, you want to be able to relieve the pain without risking harmful side effects. One way to reduce or possibly eliminate the need for pain medications is to provide quality joint supplements. There are a variety of compounds that support joint health and can work with the body to reduce pain and inflammation.

Some ingredients, like Omega-3 fatty acids, have natural anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce products of the autoimmune response. Other nutritional supplements, such as glucosamine, are part of the building blocks needed to repair cartilage in the joint. There are also supplements, such as steroidal saponins, that provide natural pain relief. Understanding these ingredients helps you to select the right supplements for your canine companion.

What to Look for in a Good Joint Supplement

When choosing the right supplements for your pooch, you may want products with ingredients to provide anti-inflammatory effects, support for joint repair or a natural alternative for pain relief. The combination you choose will depend on the nature of your dog’s joint disease and level of pain.

Only buy from manufacturers that make their product in the USA. Most serious brands today make their product in the USA, but check the label just to be sure.

Many veterinarians see benefits to a mixture of joint supplement ingredients (glucosamine, MSM, and chondroitin) rather than just one. Chondroitin, in particular, works best when paired with glucosamine. In recent years, many pet owners have also seen joint benefits by supplementing with turmeric.  Turmeric has been traditionally known to reduce inflammation.  Turmeric has Anti-inflammatory properties that help relieve the symptoms of osteoarthritis, and has been shown to help with significant reductions in pain and disability associated with the condition.

Pay particular attention to the amount of the active ingredients in the product. Compare the amount of glucosamine, MSM, and chondroitin on the ingredient label between brands. Often the lowest priced options will contain significantly less quantities of the active ingredients.

Check the label for the manufacturing method. Heat destroys nutrients, and many tablet forms of glucosamine are made with high heat manufacturing methods.  Look for a product using cold-press extrusion, which uses no heat whatsoever in the manufacturing process. It’s a more expensive method, and leads to a higher priced product, but the nutrients are more potent and more bioavailable (the extent to which a nutrient or medication can be used by the body) to your dog. Remember….. you get what you pay for!

Natural Anti-inflammatory Ingredients
In selecting a supplement to help relieve inflammation in the joints, you want to find ingredients that are sources of the Omega-3 Fatty Acids EPA and DHA. These acids help to counteract the inflammatory process and decrease the production of harmful inflammatory substances. Supplements containing fish oil or green lipped mussel (Perna canaliculus) are good sources of the Omega-3 fatty acids that have anti-inflammatory properties.

Ingredients for Joint Repair
There are three major ingredients that support joint and cartilage repair: glucosamine, chondroitin and methylsulonylmethane (MSM). Both glucosamine and chondroitin occur naturally in the body and have been used to treat arthritis in Europe for decades.

Glucosamine is an essential building block for making new cartilage. As your dog’s body ages, it is not able to produce the same level of glucosamine as a young and healthy body. When joint disease is present, supplementation helps provide the body with the tools it needs to repair damaged cartilage.

Chondroitin production also drops with age and disease. Chondroitin helps block the enzymes that break down cartilage in the joint. Under normal circumstances, these enzymes help keep cartilage smooth, but in the case of injury, the enzymes increase their activity and destroy needed cartilage. The other key supplemental ingredient for joint repair is MSM.

MSM contains sulfur, which is important to many functions in the body. It can be utilized by the body to strengthen the bonds of connective tissues such as cartilage. It is also believed to have pain relieving and anti-inflammatory effects. When looking for a supplement to help support your pup’s joint health and aid in repair, choose one that contains all three ingredients mentioned above.

At what age should you consider starting this supplement routine? The answer depends a lot on your dog’s breed.

The following dog breeds are known to experience more severe and early symptoms of arthritis, hip & elbow dysplasia, and general joint inflammation. Talk to your vet, and consider supplementing their joints as early as one year of age (when their bodies stop growing).

American Staffordshire Terriers
Bloodhounds
Basset Hounds
Bernese Mountain Dogs
Catahoula Hounds
Chow Chows
Chesapeake Bay Retrievers
Dachshunds
French Bulldogs
German Shepherds
Great Danes
Golden Retrievers
Labrador Retrievers
Neopolitan Mastiffs
Norwegian Elkhounds
Newfoundlands
Otterhounds
Old English Sheepdogs
Pit Bulls
Pugs
Rottweilers
Saint Bernards
Shih Tzus
If your dog is not on this list, talk to your vet and consider supplementing their diet before they reach their senior years.

Natural Pain Relieving Ingredients
In addition to natural anti-inflammatories and joint repair ingredients, you may want to look for ingredients that provide natural pain relief. Because medications carry the risk of various side effects, their use should be limited. When your dog shows chronic pain, ingredients such as steroidal saponins can provide pain relief without the side effects of NSAIDs and steroids.

Steroidal saponins are derived from the Yucca plant and imitate the action of steroids in the body. They are all-natural and considered safe for use in dogs. They act at the cellular level in the body to significantly reduce pain and swelling.

When considering a supplement or supplements to support your companion’s joint health, evaluate what you need for your dog’s condition. For early intervention to help prevent or support future joint disease, joint supplements are key. If your canine pal is showing signs of pain and disease, additional ingredients to reduce inflammation and relieve pain are important to support your pup’s quality of life.

Other Ways to Take the Pressure Off

As your pup gets older and starts to show signs of arthritis or other joint disease, there are things you can do to make their daily life easier. One thing that can help reduce the strain on the joints is helping your pup reach and maintain a healthy weight with proper nutrition. But if your dog is already at a healthy weight, you can still use some equipment and alternative medicine to help take the pressure off the joints.

Install Ramps or Steps                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Put in ramps or pet steps to help your dog get to his favorite resting spots, like the couch or bed.

Add Carpeting and Secure Any Loose Rugs                                                                                                                                                            Consider putting in carpeting or secure rugs to help your pup gain traction and stay steady on his feet.

Dog Lifting Harnesses
When your dog’s pain interferes with their ability to rise or walk, you can use a dog lifting harness to provide needed support. Rear lifting harnesses can be used for dogs with hip and hind leg issues to help them rise from a prone position and to help them walk. Giving your canine friend the freedom to enjoy a walk helps maintain muscle tone, and this provides natural support to the affected joint. When your pup is severely debilitated, you may need a whole body lifting harness to help them rise and to be able to urinate or defecate more easily.

Orthopedic Dog Beds
A firm, orthopedic dog bed provides comfort to dogs suffering from arthritis and other joint conditions. These beds provide extra cushioning that distributes body weight evenly and reduces stress on the pressure points. This allows your pup to rest more comfortably. In addition to orthopedic beds, you can provide a heated dog bed or heating pad made for dogs to soothe aching joints in cold weather.

Elevated Feeding Dishes
With larger dogs dealing with sore or stiff joints, elevated feeding dishes help reduce the strain on the body. Your pup will not need to bend down to the ground to eat. There is less strain on the neck and back when the food and water is easier to reach.

Massage
Massage is the gentle manipulation of superficial and deep soft tissues and is medically beneficial for the following reasons:

  • Prevents adhesions of muscles, tendons and ligaments
  • Reduces muscle spasm, swelling, and joint stiffness
  • Improves tissue relaxation, muscle flexibility, and blood flow
  • Maintains muscle mass while decreasing pain

Please read my article titled, Benefits of Canine Massage, dated November 7, 2016 for more information. In administering your dog’s massage, be sure not to massage directly on your dog’s painful joints but instead focus on the areas around the painful joints.  Next, lightly knead any tight muscles and do not overwork a muscle. If your pet begins to resist in a certain area, move on to another area that feels good to him or her.

Acupuncture                                               
One form of alternative medicine that may help reduce arthritis and other joint pain is acupuncture. Acupuncture involves inserting very fine needles into specific locations on the body to produce a desired physiological effect. In dogs, it has been successfully used to treat degenerative joint disease and other conditions. The pain relief provided through acupuncture may decrease the need for prescription medications to treat joint disease.

Diet and Exercise
One of the major causes of joint distress is canine obesity.  If your dog is overweight, his joints will be bearing extra weight. The joint pain creates a vicious cycle: pain leads to inactivity, which results in even more weight gain. Getting your dog to a proper weight through diet and nutrition is very important and will provide measurable relief.

There are many manufactured dog foods that are formulated for canine joint health. Check for these important factors:

Grain, gluten and GMO-free formula

High levels of protein

Glucosamine and chondroitin for joint support

Antioxidants, omega fatty acids and probiotics

Complete and balanced everyday meal for adult dogs

No meat by-products or fillers

Made in the USA!

**Consider making homemade bone broth for your pup. Your pet’s bone health is dependent on the health of the collagen found in the tendons and ligaments of the bones. Bone broth is loaded with amazing compounds such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin, and glucosamine which allow for protection of joints.  The broth’s easily-absorbed minerals, including magnesium and glucosamine can help in treating osteoarthritis and other joint issues.  Please check out my article on Bone Broth for Pets, dated January 30, 2017, which contains info on the benefits of bone broth and a recipe.

 

If you have a dog that is showing signs of joint pain or disease, you need to understand the underlying cause of your companion’s distress. Once you consult with your veterinarian to find the diagnosis for your pup’s specific condition, you will be ready to choose the best combination of pain relief medications, joint health supplements, and additional tools and techniques to ease the stress on your dog’s joints.

 

 

Mar 27

Bathing Your Cat

How To Bathe Your Cat Without Bloodshed

You might think that this would be the shortest article on pet care ever written, being comprised of just two words…. “Not possible.”  And though you likely wouldn’t put the words “cat” and “bath” together in the same sentence (unless it also included the word “never”), bathing a cat can be done.

With her built-in grooming tools (tongue and teeth), your cat is well-equipped to normally tackle her own hair care needs. Cats are naturally equipped with the implements to groom themselves: a barbed tongue with which to lick, forepaws they moisten with saliva and use as a surrogate washcloth, and teeth to dig out tougher debris.

Many people believe that cats hate water. Though this may be true for some, it seems to be a cat myth that all felines hate getting wet. It’s true that some cats absolutely love it and actually enjoy a nice dip in the tub or sink. In some cases, though, cat baths are a necessity.

 

 

IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER!

When it comes to bathing your cat, patience is the key! The calmer you are, the calmer your cat will be. It is important that you talk to your cat throughout the entire process (use a calm, soothing voice). It is also very important that you don’t lose your temper and yell at your cat. After all, he or she is already in 100% panic mode. It is important that you don’t rush the bathing process. Therefore, you should only bathe your cat when you have plenty of time. It should also be noted that the earlier you introduce bathing to your cat, the better. Cats that were bathed as kittens tend to be easier to bathe than older cats who are new to the process.

Why might you have to bathe a cat?

With her built-in grooming tools (tongue and teeth), your cat is well-equipped to tackle her own haircare needs. But if she is very dirty or gets into something sticky or smelly, you may need to give her a bath. There are other reasons for having to bathe your cat.

Cats may need a bath if:                                                                  

1.     They have ringworm

2.     They have a flea infestation

3.     They have something stuck on their coat

4.     They are obese or arthritic

5.     They have soiled themselves in their litter box (kittens or sickly cats                 may do this)

6.     They happen to love it. So pamper away!

More Info
  • Ringworm — This is actually a fungus, rather than a worm. Depending on the severity of your cat’s case, and some other factors, your vet may prescribe medicated baths.
  • Flea infestations — Baths aren’t typically necessary for cats with fleas, as most of the newer flea treatments will kill fleas very quickly. That said, in very bad infestations and in cats with flea allergies, baths may be beneficial and even necessary.
  • Need to get something off their coat — examples include pyrethrin/permethrin flea killing products, motor oil or gasoline, antifreeze, skunk odors, feces, poison ivy sap, toxic chemicals, tree sap, and others.
  • Obese cats or arthritic cats — These cats may be unable to groom themselves properly and fully, and so may need occasional baths to keep their coat and skin healthy.  Arthritic cats may even appreciate the bath, as the warm water and the massage of lathering the shampoo can actually feel quite good.
It’s important to get all supplies ready first, and have a plan.
  1. Play with your cat and tire her out, give her some treats or a small meal so that she is tired and relaxed before the bath.  It is recommended that you brush her fur before bathing her to remove any matted or tangled fur.
  2. You’ll need some tasty treats that your helper can use to reward (and bribe) your cat with, a pitcher or detachable shower head, pet-specific shampoo (If you don’t have any cat shampoo, a mild baby shampoo may be used)., and plenty of towels.
  3. Using your sink or a laundry basket/Rubbermaid tub in your bathtub, lay down a towel, non-slip bath mat, or even a cut up yoga mat so your cat won’t slip or freak out because of a slippery surface.
  4. Partially fill (just a few inches) with warm water (not too hot).
  5. Gently place and hold your cat there while your helper uses the pitcher or shower head to get your cat’s coat wet.
  6.  Lather with pet-specific shampoo (your vet may prescribe a specific one, especially if the bath is necessary for medical reasons — like ringworm)
  7. Thoroughly rinse the shampoo off using the pitcher or shower head (use a low flow rate so as not to scare your cat).
  8. Use cotton balls to gently clean the inside of the ears
  9. Thoroughly dry your cat using a series of towels. Don’t use a blow dryer unless your cat is already accustomed to it… or unless you don’t value the skin on your arms and face.
  10. Keep the room warm so that kitty won’t feel chilled.

What We Have Learned: A Brief Overview
  • Play with your cat and tire her out, give treats or a small meal before the bath so that she will be tired and relaxed. Brush her fur to remove any tangles or matted areas.
  • Have all bathing equipment ready before putting kitty into the tub.
  • Only use a cat-friendly, tearless shampoo and follow the instructions on the bottle. If you don’t have any cat shampoo, a mild baby shampoo may be used.
  • Check the water temperature before putting kitty into the tub.
  • If possible, have a friend help you.
  • Be sure to wash away all of the soap on your cat’s body.
  • Wash your cat’s face with a warm washcloth. Do not use soap.
  • Use cotton balls to gently clean the inside of the ears
  • Never dunk your cat’s head under water.
  • Talk to your cat throughout the bathing process. Use a calm, soothing voice.
  • Allow your cat to dry off in a warm, draft-free room. Only blow-dry if your cat is not afraid.
  • Patience is key to a successful bath!
  • The earlier you introduce your cat to the bathing process, the better! Older cats that have never been bathed will not be happy and will present a challenge.

Finally, it should be noted that if your cat absolutely will not cooperate when it comes to bathing, don’t risk having your eyes clawed out. Take her to a professional groomer or even to the vet’s office. The vet can sedate your cat (safely) and then bathe her, risk free. Good luck!

**Afterthought – I have a friend who adopted a young cat from a rescue organization (good on you, Carrie!!) and she wanted to bathe her new baby to have him clean and fresh to start out his new life.  She first put Chubbie (he was skin and bones at the time from being a stray out on the streets of Baltimore) in the shower stall and then got in with him and used the shower head extension to wash him from above.  She said he stood still and was a well-behaved little boy….and he even seemed to enjoy being massaged and cleaned!  If you have a an older kitten or young cat, you can try this method and see if it works for you.

 

 

Mar 20

Canine Allergies

Does Your Dog Have Allergies?

For people, allergies cause mostly upper respiratory signs, but allergies are a little different for dogs. While grass pollen may cause a person to sneeze and have watery eyes, a dog may develop itchy feet that causes him to lick and bite. Although dogs can develop watery eyes and sneezing, the most common allergy symptom is scratching. Constant scratching may lead to open sores, raised welts and loss of hair.

All dog breeds can be affected by allergies. Allergies usually affect dogs over two years old, although they have been reported in dogs as young as five months old. This means that dogs who are affected by allergies often suffer their entire lives and symptoms often become worse with age. As a dog owner, it is important to educate yourself about allergy symptoms and treatment options to help keep your best friend comfortable.

Does your dog have allergies? He may, if he has any of the following allergy symptoms:

  • Scratches his ears
  • Itchiness; scratching; biting at skin
  • Bumps and white raised pustules; pimples
  • Moist sores called hot spots; prone to becoming infected
  • Licks or chews his feet or body

    Reddish brown color of fur between dog’s paw pads is a sign of allergic reaction

  • Has a reddish discoloration of the hair on the paws or between the toes
  • Rubs his face against the furniture or floor
  • Redness, bumps, rash; common in the groin and flank areas, on the paws, between the toes, behind the front legs (in the armpit/axial area), under the neck and on the chin
  • Has red or watery eyes
  • Thinning of the hair in and around the ears
  • Waxy build-up in the ears
  • Abnormal yeast-like smell coming from the ears
  • Has ear infections
  • Head shaking; often vigorous and persistent
  • Has sneezing or a runny nose
  • Vomits or has diarrhea
  • Coughs or wheezes
  • Restlessness
  • Lethargy; weakness; general malaise
  • Loss of appetite
  • Weight loss
  • Depression
  • Loss of interest in normal activities
  • Hives
  • Enlarged lymph nodes
Types of Dog Allergies

There are four types of dog allergies. These include:

Airborne allergies (atopy)
Flea allergies
Food allergies
Contact allergies

Airborne Allergy (Atopy)

Allergies to particles (allergens) your dog inhales is called atopy and is very common. Common allergens include tree pollens (cedar, ash, oak, etc), grass pollens, weed pollens (ragweed, goldenrods, etc), molds, mildew and house dust mites. Many of these allergies occur seasonally, such as ragweed and grass pollens. Others, such as molds, mildew and house dust mites are year-round problems. When humans inhale these allergens they usually develop respiratory signs (“hayfever”). When dogs inhale these allergens they develop itching of the face, feet and armpits.

One of the most important treatments is to minimize your dog’s exposure to things he is allergic to. If a dog is allergic to pollen, he should be kept inside when pollen counts are high or the grass is being mowed. Air filters can also help remove many airborne allergens to keep the home environment clean.

Some veterinarians will recommend allergy shots if specific allergens have been identified (see allergy testing below). With allergy shots, very small amounts of the offending allergen are injected weekly to help your dog become less sensitive to it. Up to 75% of dogs that receive allergy shots will have improvement in their signs—but it can take several months (up to one year) to see the full effect.

Flea Allergy                                                     

Flea allergy is a very common allergy in dogs. Most dogs will have minor irritation and itching from a flea bite. A dog with flea allergy, however, will have a severe reaction to a single flea—they will often bite and break the skin and even remove large patches of their own hair. The most common area of the body affected by flea allergy is the base of the tail or the hind legs.

Treatment of flea allergy includes strict flea control. Fleas can be very difficult to kill but with modern flea medicine and home treatment options, your veterinarian can help you rid your home and dog of these pests.

Food Allergy

Food allergies are more common than originally thought, and it is now known that food allergy and atopy often occur together. Food allergy can strike at any age and allergies can develop to any protein or carbohydrate in the food. Allergies to beef, pork, chicken, turkey, eggs, soy, corn and wheat seem to be the most common. Common symptoms of dog food allergy include itching of the face, feet, sides of the body, legs and anal area. These dogs will often have ear yeast infections and skin infections that respond to antibiotics, but recur as soon as the antibiotic is finished. Some dogs with food allergy will also have increased bowel movements and soft stool. Food allergies should not be confused with food intolerances which generally cause more severe vomiting and diarrhea.

Treatment of food allergy involves feeding your dog a diet that does not contain the allergen. To achieve this, your veterinarian will perform a “diet trial”. A commercial hypoallergenic diet or homemade dog food is prescribed and fed for 8 to 12 weeks. During this time, your dog must ONLY eat the prescribed food—no table food, scraps, treats, vitamins or chewable medications (even heartworm pills) can be given during a diet trial. If a positive response is seen after this trial, your veterinarian will advise you on how to proceed.

Food allergies can continue undiagnosed for years. Many owners mistakenly believe that their dogs’ symptoms are just caused by a sensitive stomach.

Contact Allergy

This is the least common type of allergy and is caused by something your dog comes in contact with, such as carpet, bedding, plastic, cleaners, detergents, lawn chemicals, grasses, or other things. The area of the body affected is the contact surfaces, such as the stomach, bottom of the feet, muzzle or elbows. Treatment involves identifying and removing the allergen.

Diagnosis of Allergies

If you suspect your dog has allergies, you should see your veterinarian. Veterinarians will usually make a preliminary diagnosis and treatment plan based on the following information:

  • Season(s) of the year when your dog has the most symptoms
  • What body locations are the most itchy
  • Response of the itch to medications (e.g. shampoos, antihistamines, steroids, etc)

If the initial treatment does not give your dog relief, your veterinarian may recommend more specific “allergy testing”. Allergy testing is done by either taking a blood test or performing intradermal skin testing. The blood tests are reasonably reliable for detecting airborne allergies but not as good for food or contact allergies. Skin testing is considered more accurate and involves shaving a patch of hair on your dog’s side and then injecting small amounts of allergens under the skin. A positive test is diagnosed if there is a reddening or welting of the skin after injection. Those allergens can then be mixed together by a laboratory and injections given weekly at home over several months to help diminish the dog’s reaction to the allergens.

Treatment of Allergies

In addition to specific treatments listed above for each allergy type, your veterinarian may recommend the following skin treatments to give your allergic dog relief during his most itchy times:

Shampoo — Frequent bathing with a natural shampoo removes pollens, debris and other allergens from the coat that could be absorbed through the skin. Your veterinarian may prescribe a medicated shampoo or conditioner that contains anti-inflammatory ingredients if your dog needs additional relief.
Anti-inflammatory allergy medication — Steroids, antihistamines or cyclosporine may be prescribed as they dramatically block the allergic reaction in most cases. These medications create almost immediate relief from skin irritation and severe itching associated with most types of allergy.
Antibiotics — Often the itch of allergy is made worse by bacterial or yeast skin infections. Your veterinarian may recommend the use of oral antibiotics or anti-yeast medications to treat these infections.
Modified Diet – Dogs with food allergies, which are quite common, need to have their diets modified and closely managed. The first step is to identify the ingredients that cause the allergic reaction. The dog’s veterinarian probably will recommend what is known as an elimination diet. This involves putting the dog on a bland diet with very few ingredients – typically just cooked rice and chicken for starters. The owner will observe her dog for any adverse signs of reacting to those simple ingredients and, if none are present, will then gradually add other foods to the dog’s diet, one at a time. She must keep a close watch on how her dog reacts to each new ingredient to determine which food items he is or isn’t allergic to. Once the allergens are identified, the dog’s diet can be restructured. Owners of dogs with food allergies can use homemade diets or take advantage of the many specialized dog foods that now are commercially available in most areas, including a number of kibbles with unusual protein sources such as salmon, venison, bison or duck.

Additional things you can do at home to minimize your dog’s itchiness or allergy symptoms:

*Try to minimize the exposure of your dog to the suspected allergens.
*Feed your dog a high quality natural dog food with proper pet supplements to ensure they have no dietary  deficiencies.
*Give your dog a pet supplement with fatty acids to provide beneficial anti-inflammatory properties and improve the  quality of their skin and coat.
*Use stainless steel or glass feeding dishes and clean them regularly.
*Brush your dog’s hair coat regularly to distribute the natural oils and prevent mats that can further irritate itchy skin.
*Apply a natural ointment in areas where the skin is broken or in “hot spots”.
*Use flea preventative regularly as allergic dogs tend to be even more sensitive than normal dogs to flea or insect      bites. A natural herbal dip is a gentle alternative to harsh chemicals. Please see my article on Natural Ways to Get Rid of Fleas on Your Pet for more info on natural, non-toxic remedies for flea treatment.
*Wash your dog’s bedding with hypoallergenic detergent in very hot water.

Prognosis
Dogs with allergies typically have a very good prognosis, once the allergen is identified and appropriate treatment begins. The most difficult part of this process is identifying the allergen. Once the allergen is pinpointed, there are many positive steps that can be taken to reduce the dog’s allergic reactions and restore its quality of life. It is important to work closely with your veterinarian to ensure that your dog will be as comfortable as possible while you are managing his allergies.