Dec 19

Cat Ear Care

Caring for Your Cat’s Ears

Though it’s not necessary to clean your kitty’s ears as part of a weekly grooming routine, it is a good idea to gently check the ears for wax, debris, and any sign of pus or discharge regularly. If there is pus or discharge, or the cat shows pain when its ears are touched, take her to the vet for a checkup.  Also, if your cat consistently develops ear infections, it could be a sign of allergies. Please consult your veterinarian about possible food or skin allergies.

If your cat’s ears look clean, then you’re home free. No need to clean. However, if they’re dirty, make sure you clean them very gently. This is because you can rupture the eardrum or even inflict scratches or pain if you clean the cat’s ears the wrong way.  Never, ever put anything into her ear canal.

Cats tend to explore everywhere, and if they are outdoors, their curious behavior increases the chances they can contract ear mites or other ear hitchhikers. Your cat’s ears are an ideal breeding ground for small mites or parasites because the ear hair allows a location to build nests and a food source (such as blood) within reach. Ear parasites will generally increase your cat’s need to consistently scratch, and this will further irritate the ear lining. Continued scratching can also lead to blood blisters.

Common signs your cat may have an ear problem include:

·   Hearing loss

·   Bleeding

·   Black or yellowish discharge

·   Persistent scratching

·   Sensitivity to touch

·   Head tilting

·   Loss of balance

·   Redness or swelling

·   Dark brown wax buildup

·   Unpleasant odor

To determine if there is a problem or if just a cleaning is needed, it is recommended that you perform regular ear checks on your feline.

Inspect your cat’s ears

Start by checking the outer ears for any redness, irritation, or discharge, and then check your cat’s inner ears. Gently pull the ears backward and look inside. You may notice an unusual buildup of wax or black flakes. If you see many black flakes, your cat may have a mite or flea infestation. The black flakes are commonly known as “flea dirt,” which is actually the fecal matter of the fleas.

 

Know Your Ear Disorders

·    Ear mites are common parasites that are contagious among pets. Telltale signs include excessive itching of the ears and debris that resembles coffee grounds.

·    Ear infections are usually caused by bacteria or yeasts. Treatment should be sought promptly as ear infections can cause considerable discomfort. Allergies in cats can be a predisposing factor in developing ear infections.

·    An ear hematoma is a collection of blood and serum between the cartilage and skin of the outer ear. They’re often caused by infection, ear mites, fleas, or trapped debris that causes your cat to scratch her ears or shake her head excessively. They can occur in association with frequent head shaking in association with ear infections, ear mites, or allergies.

If your cat’s ears are excessively dirty or it seems to need the cleaning much too frequently, take her to the vet for a checkup, to ensure that there are no problems.

Ear Cleaning 101

It’s best to perform your cat’s ear cleaning when he or she is relaxed and in a good mood. An upset or aggravated cat is much more likely to scratch and squirm. Do the cleaning in a quiet area, away from your other pets. It might help you to have someone gently hold your cat, but when it comes to restraining cats – less is more. So, don’t hold your cat too firmly or she might become aggravated and struggle to get away. If you don’t have help or kitty doesn’t want to cooperate, you can try wrapping her in a thick towel, like a burrito (or a “purrito”!).

First, you’ll need a good ear cleaner. Look for a cleaner that is quick drying and approved for use in cats. Epi-Otic is a good example. It is a non-irritating cleanser that will help prevent the buildup of bacteria and yeast.

Start by adding a small amount of the cleaner into your cat’s ear. Then massage the ear at the base for several seconds, to help work the cleaner into the ear canal. You’ll most likely hear the cleaner squishing around while you massage. This shouldn’t be painful for your cat, but if you notice her acting like she is in pain, take her to the vet for an ear exam.

After you add cleaner and gently massage the ears, allow your cat to shake her head to help loosen and bring up the softened wax or dirt.

Now, use a cotton ball or gauze pad to gently wipe your cat’s ears clean. Be very careful not to push the cotton ball or gauze deeply into your cat’s ear. This could cause the wax and dirt to become compacted in the ear. Do not use cotton swabs, like Q-tips, to clean your cat’s ears – it’s too easy to insert cotton swabs too deep into the ears, which can damage the tissue in your cat’s ear canal and even rupture the ear drum! Cat’s ears are especially sensitive, so always be gentle and use caution when cleaning them.

Finish by praising your clean-eared kitty with lots of love and treats to positively reinforce her good behavior and she’ll be more inclined to cooperate next time you clean her ears.

How to Administer Ear Drops

If your veterinarian has recommended ear drops or ointment for your cat, please ask for his/her advice on how to properly administer them. Below are general guidelines on administering medications in your cat’s ears:

Read the label instructions carefully for correct dosage before administering.

If there is debris or excessive wax in the outer ear or visible part of the ear canal, gently clean the external ear with a cotton ball or gauze moistened with a veterinary recommended ear cleaning solution

Gently pull the ear flap back, squeeze out the correct amount of solution or ointment into the outermost ear canal.

Gently massage the base of the ear to help work the medication deeper into the canal.

Administer the medication according to the label directions given by your veterinarian. Not completing the entire course of treatment can interfere with total resolution of the issue being treated.

Reward your cat with a treat afterward.

Again, you may need to have a friend to help hold your cat, and immediately after the ordeal, shower kitty with plenty of praise and treats. Be prepared to have her shoot you dirty looks for an hour or so after, because they do that so well (and you may have stepped on her feline dignity).

 

Dec 12

Ear Care For Your Dog

Cleaning Your Dog’s Ears

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Most dogs’ ears do not require regular cleaning and can mostly be left alone. In fact, it’s better to leave normal, healthy ears alone and not attempt to clean them for the sake of it, because this can disrupt the delicate pH balance and natural environment there. Some dogs require occasional cleaning to remove debris, or a specially designed drying product to help eliminate excess moisture from the ears after swimming.

Why Clean Your Dog’s Ears?

Dogs have very long ear canals that take a right-angled bend, so foreign material often goes in, but is difficult to get out. If dogs get water in their ears during swimming, this water can pool down in the horizontal ear canal and increase the risk of infection. Ear infections are much more likely in a warm, moist, dark environment like an ear canal. If your dog swims, cleaning the ears out after swimming is a great routine to get into.

Dogs that have skin allergies and are prone to frequent ear infections will also benefit from regular ear cleaning. Your Vet can recommend how frequently to clean the ears, but as a general rule, not more than weekly and ideally at least monthly.

Symptoms

·  Head shaking

·  Excessive ear scratching

·  Redness of the ear flaps (otitis)

Subtle Signs of an Underlying Ear Problem

·  Slight tilt of the head

·  One ear being held at a slightly different angle than the other

·  Pungent, yeasty odor emanating from the ears

·  Dark reddish brown buildup of waxy substance around the folds of the ears and deeper within the ear canal itself

The Causes

Anatomy or Breed

Certain breeds with ears that hang down, like setters, spaniels and retrievers, can be pre-disposed to infections and yeast buildup because these longer ear flaps provide an internal ear environment that’s dark, potentially more moist, and perfect for the growth of yeast and bacteria.

While some breeds are routinely subjected to ear-cropping in the United States, this is almost entirely a cosmetic (and in the opinion of most, a cruel) surgical mutilation with its roots in the ancestral jobs of certain working breeds, but which has no relevance in the life of a modern dog – and only very mildly helps to combat ear problems, if at all.

Lifestyle

Dogs who regularly swim in lakes, the ocean or swimming pools (dock-diving or swim therapy for example) can be more prone to ear problems than those who don’t go near the water. Any dog who swims should have his ears gently dried afterwards, using a soft towel to remove the excess moisture. This alone can prevent many ear infections from building up, because yeast and bacteria love to reproduce in dark, moist places.

Foxtails can easily become lodged in your dog’s ear and will cause discomfort and pain.

Dogs who spend a lot of time outdoors and are lucky enough to run in the woods or other grassy open spaces are slightly more at risk of a foxtail or other type of grass seed working its way into the ears. This can cause severe pain and discomfort and often require surgical removal although in some cases, a vet may suggest pouring mineral oil or another substance into the ear to soften the seed and allow it to be shaken out by the dog – however it’s essential that a correct diagnosis is made, so please see your Vet in these situations.

Diet 

Food (or environmental) allergies are especially likely to be the cause of ear problems when both ears are involved. An excess of grain and / or sugar in the diet is one of the most common causes of ear infections in dogs. The sugar actually feeds the yeast which lives naturally in the body and causes a yeast overgrowth, which results in the dark, yeasty-smelling buildup that can occur inside the ears.

·  Diet: A grain-free diet is almost always helpful in combating chronic yeast infections. Grains contain natural sugars which yeasts feed upon and multiply. In most milder cases, eliminating grains and cleaning the ears of any built-up debris will set your dog on a path to long term ear health. If antibiotics are prescribed for a persistent or stubborn ear infection, consider supplementing the diet with a good probiotic supplement containing acidophilus to help maintain the balance of good bacteria in the dog’s system. Live-culture plain yogurt with lactobacillus and acidophilus can also help to offset the side-effects of antibiotic therapy.

·  A raw or natural, minimally processed diet can be very helpful in combating ear problems, because it provides the natural, whole-food nutrition that the dog’s immune system needs in order to regain strength. Removing toxic chemical preservatives and excessive gluten by-products and fillers can have a noticeable effect on most of the body, including the condition of the ears.

Parasites

Parasites such as mites can invade the ear canal, but these are relatively uncommon. Sometimes, allergic ear problems can be mistaken for ear mites. If they do invade, a confirmed case of ear mites can be treated with Neem or plain mineral oil. Chronic and persistent ear ailments that do not clear up using simple measures require veterinary attention. Contact your vet for treatment options.

 

What You Will Need

·  Ear cleaner

·  Cotton balls

·  Treats

WHAT SORT OF EAR CLEANER?

There are various types of ear cleaners, but the most important thing is that you only use a good quality dog ear cleaner. Never put olive oil, vinegar, shampoo or any other substance in a dog’s ear. Also avoid poking around with cotton buds in the ear, you will only work any wax and debris further in and potentially damage the ear drum.

STEP-BY-STEP PROCESS

** Important!  If your dog has very red, itchy, inflamed and painful ears, see your Vet before you start cleaning. It is likely your dog has an ear infection, so ear cleaning will not do much good at this point. If your dog has an infection severe enough to damage the ear drum, some ear cleaners can damage the ear further.

Ear cleaning can be a messy job, so find somewhere in the house that is easy to clean.

1.  Give your pet a treat for sitting and show him the ear cleaner.

2.  Gently hold the flap of the ear up and gently wipe the outer ear with a cotton ball soaked with the ear cleaner. Clean every fold and crevice that you can see and reach but don’t push down into the ear canal.

3.  While continuing to hold the flap of the ear upright, fill the ear canal with ear cleaner. Direct the tube vertically downwards.

4.  Keep a hold of the ear and move your hand down to where the ear meets the head.

5.  Massage at the base of the ear, aiming to mix the ear cleaner around within the ear canal. You should hear a squishy noise if you are doing this correctly.

6.  After you have massaged the ear for 20 seconds, stand back and let go of the ear.

7   Your dog should now vigorously shake his head.

8.  Grab some cotton balls and use them to wipe out the folds at the opening of the ear canal until it looks clean.

9.  Give your dog a treat and repeat with the other ear.

The key to effective ear cleaning is to use a large amount of ear cleaner. As the ear canals are quite long, the wiping step does not get all the ear discharge out. The idea is that when you massage, you will be breaking up the discharge lining the inside of the ear canal, so that it forms a solution with the ear cleaner. Your pet can then shake the liquid out.

Remember if you see redness, the ears are particularly smelly, or they are painful to your dog when you touch them, see your Vet. Your pet most likely has an ear infection and ear cleaning may be too painful and damaging to perform.

 

 

Most dogs will come to like ear cleaning, so long as they feel comfortable and their ears are healthy. This is the one place that dogs can’t scratch themselves, so most will absolutely love it. With lots of treats and encouragement, ear cleaning can become a part of their regular hygiene routine.

 

Dec 05

Trimming Your Cat’s Claws

Trimming Your Cat’s Claws

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Trimming a cat’s nails, or claws, is a bit different from nail trimming for dogs, but they are chores that both pet owners and their pets dread. It is unfortunate that many times nail trims end with a scratched and bloody owner and a frightened cat.

But don’t give up hope!  It is possible to train both kittens and adult cats to tolerate, and perhaps to even enjoy having their nails clipped.

Cats have retractable claws, and they don’t always appreciate someone applying a bit of gentle pressure to their toes to expose the claws. Also, cats are very sensitive to the energy around them, and if there’s tension or nervousness in the air, their first instinct is to bolt. If a cat who wants to bolt is being held, she may try to claw her way free, and some very determined kitties can be nearly impossible to restrain.

Conditioning Your Cat to Tolerate Nail Trims
Teach Your Kitten to Relax

One method of teaching your kitten to relax is the get her to lie on her back or side. While she is on her back, reward her continually with easily consumed treats (like canned cat food or small pieces of tuna on the end of a spoon.  Put happy-pets-blog-cat-claw-trimming-7the treats at her face so that she doesn’t have to move to eat the treat. She will learn that lying on her back or side is good because it earns treats. As your kitten gets more comfortable lying on her back, phase out the treats.

Once your kitten enjoys lying on her back, get her used to having her paws and claws handled. Gently and slowly squeeze her paws, offering treats at the same time.  Time the treats right so that when the paws are handled, treats are there for her simultaneously.  Treats should be given continuously at first so the cat is just thinking about food. When paws are not being handled, stop any rewards. This approach builds a clear positive association between paws being handled and good things happening.

Progressively increase how vigorously you handle your kitten’s paws, but only as long as she stays relaxed. Work toward squeezing more vigorously and then try tapping the claws lightly with trimmers, but without trimming.  It is advantageous to have two people participate in the training if possible,one rewarding with treats and the other handling the paws and trimmer.

Teach Your Adult Cat to Relax                           

If your adult cat is already afraid of nail trims, you will need to create a positive association with the nail trimmers. Place the trimmers next to your cat’s food bowl during meals or positioning a saucer of canned food around the clippers. The cat will begin to learn that good things happen when the trimmers are brought out.

Teaching an adult cat to lie on her back is not easy so find an alternate position where your cat is relaxed. Reward your cat for lying down on the floor or for lying down on her side. You will also need to work on getting your cat comfortable with having her paws and claws handled. Offer treats while you lift and hold your cat’s paw.

Clip one nail and offer a treat at the same time. If your cat stays relaxed, then trim the second nail while the cat is eating; if your cat stays relaxed, build up to trimming five nails in one session. It is recommended that the trimming be done with two people, if possible. As with kittens, it’s much simpler for one person to treat and snuggle with the cat while the other trims. If you will be doing the trims without assistance, wait until your cat can stay relaxed while having her paws handled, and then you can reward her with treats after the clipping is done.

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The frequency of nail trims depends on the cat. Check her nails every couple of weeks to see if it’s needed. Cats that are outdoors more or use their scratching post regularly may need less frequent trims. Another consideration is the furniture in the home. If you have furniture that is easily scratched when your cat walks over it, you may need to trim more often.

The best time to trim your cat’s claws is when she is relaxed or sleepy. Never try to give a pedicure right after a stressful experience or an energetic round of play.

Let’s Begin!                                  
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Gently press paw pad to extend the claw

Your cat should be resting comfortably on your lap, the floor, or a table. Hold her paw in one hand and press one toe pad gently to extend the claw. Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw, as cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding. When you cut, remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw. If your cat becomes impatient, take a break and try again later. It is important to remain calm and centered, even if your cat becomes anxious and wants to bolt.  If you can clip only a claw or two a day, eventually you’ll complete the task.

Because cats do little damage with their rear claws and do a good job of keeping them trim themselves by chewing them, many cat owners never clip the rear claws. Check the rear claws periodically to see if they need to be trimmed.

Many people hold the clippers at right angles to the nail, thus cutting across the nail. This tends to make the nail more subject to splitting or fraying. It is better to hold the clippers in a vertical position—that is, up and down, so that the claw is trimmed from bottom to top instead of across the nail. This position will help prevent splitting.

Again, notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw!

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If you accidentally clip into the quick, don’t panic. The claw may bleed for a moment, but it will usually stop very quickly. Soothe your cat by speaking softly to her and stroking her head. If the bleeding hasn’t stopped after a minute or so, touch a styptic pencil to the claw end or pat on styptic powder to help stop the bleeding.

How often you need to clip your cat’s claws depends somewhat on how much of the tip you remove, but usually a clipping every ten to fourteen days will suffice. If’ your cat absolutely refuses to allow you to clip her claws, get help from your veterinarian or a professional groomer.

Clip and Stop Method

If you trim your cat’s nails regularly, there’s really no need to do all four paws at once. You can let your kitty set the pace – do a couple of nails, then stop. Do a paw a day if that works out for you and your cat.  If your kitty seems nervous at all, clip one nail at a time.  Clip and stop, and so on until all the nails are trimmed.

If your cat is really stressed or fighting you or your helper (the “cuddler”), take a longer break between paws. You can even wait a day. The goal is to get your pet as comfortable with the procedure as possible, so whatever you can do to reduce his stress and yours is the way to go.

 

 

Special claw trimmers (two types are shown) are available from Amazon or pet supply stores. Keep a styptic (astringent) pencil or powder (Kwik Stop) on hand in case you accidentally clip into the quick and bleeding hasn’t stopped within a couple of minutes.


You’ve probably noticed your kitty likes to be in control. It’s in her DNA. So allow her to feel some control during nail trimming with the clip and stop method. This will keep it positive for the cat, and will also reduce the stress of the entire activity of nail trims. Since it’s a procedure you’ll want to do regularly throughout your pet’s life, the more comfortable she is with it, the better.

Although it may seem like a daunting task at first, trimming your cat’s claws regularly is an important part of maintaining your feline companion’s hygiene. Keeping your cat’s claws clipped will also minimize scratches that might be suffered by you, and your furniture.

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Nov 28

Trimming Your Dog’s Nails

Trimming Your Dog’s Nails

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Nail trimming and grooming are chores that are often feared by both dogs and owners. The best way to calm your fears is to ask your Vet or a professional groomer to train you in the proper techniques for nail trimming if you feel that you need help. The best way to calm your dog’s fears is to train him from a very young age to be comfortable with the process.

If you don’t feel comfortable trimming your dog’s nails, your vet or groomer will be happy to do this regularly. If you take your dog on frequent walks on concrete or paved paths, he may not need nail trimming as often. Just keep an eye on the growth of those dew claws (thumbs).

Unless your dog is very active outdoors, his nails will need to be trimmed on a regular basis, anywhere from once every several weeks to once a month.

General Info

Nail trims can be stressful for your dog, so the first thing you should do is get him used to having his paws touched and handled – this should happen long before you try to trim his nails.
Food rewards are a good way to distract a dog who is nervous or fearful about nail trims.
You can use a nail clipper or a rotary tool, depending on what your dog can tolerate and your own preference.
Nails must be trimmed very carefully to avoid cutting into the quick. And trimming one nail a day is fine – do only as much as your dog is comfortable with.
Styptic powder, baking soda, or cornstarch is a must-have and should be at your fingertips before you start the nail trim.

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TYPES OF NAIL TRIMMERS      
There are many different types of nail trimmers. Buy good quality trimmers that are sharp and designed for the correct size dog. They should be concave at the cutting edge, to avoid crushing the nail. Blunt or poor quality trimmers will split the nail.  If the nails aren’t that long but are sharp, you can simply file them or use a pumice stone to take off the tips. You can also use a dremel tool to slowly sand down the nails, and this can be more gradual and safer than clipping. When clipping your dog’s nails, it is a good time to trim the fur that grows between his paw pads. Use a small pair of scissors with blunt tips so that you don’t injure the pads as you trim.

Don’t Forget the Styptic Powder 
One important thing to remember before you start trimming is to have styptic powder or Kwik Stop on hand in case you cut into the quick of the nail. Cornstarch or baking soda will also stop the bleeding.

Let’s Begin

HOW TO TRIM THE NAILS

The first step is to get some treats, make the whole experience positive and don’t feel like you need to be a hero and trim all the nails at once. Start with one, reward and come back later if you or your pet is nervous. One technique that helps is to hold the handle of the nail trimmers flat against the toe pad and cut straight across the nail, so that the nail will sit just above the ground. This technique makes it extremely unlikely you will cut the nails too short.

To get a shorter cut than the previous method, aim to cut at a 45° angle, after visualizing the quick. The quick is the pink area within the nail where the nerves and blood vessels are, much like the area underneath our nails.

WORKING WITH BLACK NAILS

If your dog has black nails, look at the underside of the nail and you will notice that towards the tip the nail separates out into a triangular shape with two outer ‘walls’. At this point, there is no quick and it is safe to cut the tip off. Otherwise use the technique of simply cutting straight across from the pad, rather than attempting to cut up at a 45° angle. Another trick of the trade is to apply gentle pressure with the nail trimmers without actually cutting where you think you need to cut. If your dog reacts to the pressure, most likely you are too close to the quick and you will need to more the clippers further down the nail.

Check out the photos below for a visual on what to look for when trimming black nails.

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With your nail trimmers, shave off just the tip of the nail, we are talking 1/16 to 1/8 inch at a time.

After the first little snip, look at the end of the nail straight on. Notice that the center is WHITE.

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As you get closer to the nerve, the center will start to turn darker. See the bit of gray?

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Another snip, and its even darker. The center of the nail is now very BLACK.  This is where you want to stop trimming.  If you cut beyond this point, you will make the nail bleed.

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This is what the correctly trimmed nail now looks like.
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WHAT IF I MAKE THE NAILS BLEED?
If you accidentally cut the nails too short you can use styptic powder (like Qwik Stop), cornstarch, baking soda, or simply use a clean bar of soap and run it under the damaged nail. The soap will plug the vessel and stop the bleeding. Usually if you have made your dog bleed, he will be a bit nervous next time, so make sure you have lots of treats ready to give to him, and take it slow. If you pet is nervous about nail trimming, view this video on how to counter condition your dog and get him used to nail trims.

 

NAIL TRIMMING FOR SENIOR DOGS OR DOGS WITH DEFORMED NAILS

Older dogs tend to end up with long quicks, elongated nails, and often extremely hard nails. Nails can also grow back a bit deformed if there has been some sort of trauma to the nail bed, such as when the dew claw has been caught in something and torn.

Clipping after bathing can help with the hardness issue, as the nails will be softer.  If you can just take the tips off the nails or cut them so they sit just above the floor when your dog is standing, this can help to ensure you don’t cut deformed nails too short.

Alternatively, if you gradually take the tips off, you can often make the quick recede a little over time, but you will need to be patient. So long as your dog’s nails are not touching the ground, getting caught in anything and causing the toes to splay out or bend, there is no need to worry too much about keeping them extremely short.

Whenever you trim your dog’s nails remember to make the whole experience rewarding by having treats ready, and always take a little bit at a time if you can’t clearly see the quick beneath the nail. And if you have a very patient dog, why not paint those beautiful nails!

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Nov 21

Dog Paw Care

Dog Paw Care: Tips For Year Round Safety

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As vulnerable as a human foot, your dog’s paws need to be taken care of and pampered.  You wouldn’t walk across a hot parking lot or a snow covered field without the proper protection on your feet, so please be aware of your dog’s paws in extreme conditions.  There are potentially a number of issues that may need to be addressed, including nail length, cracked pads, and foreign objects wedged in between paw pads.

A big misconception that many people have is that a dog’s paws can tolerate anything. This is not true.  Just like human feet, paws can crack, blister, and bleed. According to the AKC, a dog’s paw is made up of skin, bone, tendons, ligaments, blood supply, and connective tissue, which is very similar to our anatomy.  To help keep your pooch’s paws healthy all year long, check out the following tips.

Dog Paw Care 101

Winter

The hazards of winter can be dangerous to your pup’s paws. Dogs’ paws are naturally thick and leathery and offer some protection against hard surfaces and the elements, but all the salt, sand, snow, ice, and de-icing chemicals can cause dry paws, cracking, irritation, injury, and even infection.

If your dog spends a lot of time in the snow or walks on sidewalks or streets that see a lot of salt and de-icers, then consider preparing your dog’s paws before going outside in the winter months. Cloth or rubber dog booties are a great way to protect your dog’s paws and prevent slipping on ice. There are many options and sizes available. Putting booties on any dog can be a challenge, and it takes patience and practice in getting your pup accustomed to wearing “footwear” (see video).

For those who don’t need actual boots, but would prefer not to have their pet’s paws come in contact with dirty streets or muddy areas, balloon boots/rubberized boots work perfectly as a lightweight, comfortable alternative for keeping paws safe and clean.

However, not all dogs will tolerate booties.  If that is the case, consider this option:  Invisible Boots.   Invisible boots aren’t actually boots at all. They’re a wax-like product that’s spread on paw pads and between toes to protect against heat, cold, and the elements. Musher’s Secret (available on Amazon.com, see below) is one such product that helps provide a semi-permeable shield of protection to your pet’s pads and between toes. And, while it was developed for mushing sled dogs, it’s the perfect paw protectant to have in all seasons. This non-toxic, hypo-allergenic seal also provides soothing relief for paws with open sores or cracked pads. These types of products are perfect for keeping flies off wounds and providing a soft layer of protection between your pet’s pads and the world.


Good grooming habits can also help maintain good paw health in the winter. On his website, Cesar Milan advises to trim the hair around the paws of long-coated dogs to make sure that none of the hair comes into contact with the ground. This proper grooming will prevent “ice balls” from forming between and around the paw pads which can be painful and result in trauma. It also makes it easier to apply the paw wax to the pads.”

It is also important to clean up after winter walks. When you get back inside, make sure to thoroughly clean off your dog’s paws with a towel and warm water to remove all traces of paw wax, debris or chemicals she may have picked up on your walk. We suggest keeping a towel by the door to help establish a routine. This quick cleaning will keep your dog from licking her paws and potentially getting sick from de-icing chemicals.

Summer

Summer may be snow-free, but it still poses some potential hazards to a dog’s paws. Summer means trips to the beach and lots of outdoor time (yay!), but it can also mean hot sand and even hotter asphalt. A good rule of thumb is – would you stand here barefoot for more than a few seconds? If not, then avoid walking on those hot surfaces with your dog. Morning or early evening walks are best to avoid peak sun and heat hours.

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Dogs also spend a lot more time outside in the summer months, so summer is a good time to check your dog’s paws for any signs of injury, such as cracks, blisters or punctures. Make it a habit to check after long walks, and always examine them if your dog is licking his paws more than usual, or is limping. Minor cracks or cuts in the paws can be treated with a wash in antibacterial soap and a soothing balm or a dog-specific pad moisturizer (just don’t use your own moisturizer – according to the ASPCA it can soften the paws and lead to injury). Any severe burns or deep cuts should be treated by a veterinarian as soon as possible.

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Foxtails can attach to your dog’s fur and get into paw crevices.

If your dog spends a lot of time in open fields, keep an eye out for foxtails, a weed that can log itself in the skin between paw pads. If this happens, the foxtail should be removed immediately, for it is irritating and painful for the dog, and can lead to infection if untreated. Try to remove it gently with tweezers, but if the area is red or swollen, bring the dog to the vet as soon as possible. The vet can also check your dog thoroughly for more foxtails, as they have been known to lodge in dogs’ ears, eyes and noses.

 

Summary – Basic Care for Your Dog’s Paws

1. Try pampering your dog’s paws with pedicures. His nails need to touch slightly just above the ground when he walks. If his nails tend to click or get snagged over the floor, then give him a pedicure. Talk to your vet or a professional pet groomer for advice regarding the types of nail trimmers that would seem best for your pet, and how to properly use them. On average, most dogs will need to have their nails trimmed every 1-2 months.

2. Do the snip and trim. Try trimming the hairs on your dog’s paw on a regular basis to keep him from painful matting. Comb his hair out especially those from between the toes. Trim even with his pads.

3. Explore in between. Because foreign objects could easily become lodged in your pet’s pads, do not forget to clean them. Check between his toes for pebbles, foxtails, bits of broken glass, and other debris. All these pesky items can be easily removed with a pair of tweezers.

4. Moisturize, moisturize, and then moisturize. Your dog’s pads can easily get dry and cracked so ask your vet about good pad moisturizers designed especially for dogs. Do not apply hand moisturizers for humans as it could soften the dog’s pads and lead to unwarranted injury.

5. Give your pet a soothing deep paw massage. Just like giving someone a hand massage, a paw massage will also help in relaxing your dog; thus, promote better blood circulation. Rub between the pads at the bottom of his paw, and then rub between each of his toe. Your pup will be grateful for that extra TLC.

6. Take it slow and steady. If you intend to start a new exercise plan for your dog, start off slowly. Paws are likely to be sensitive, cracked or chaffed, especially when taking your dog out for hikes and runs.

7. Use first aid. Because it is not unusual for your dog to acquire cuts or suffer from other wounds due to accidentally stepping on broken glass or other debris, make sure that you have a pet first aid kit. Small wounds can be cleaned using an antibacterial wash and then wrapped with a bandage. Deeper cuts, however, will require seeing your vet for treatment.

8. Help him deal with summertime sores. Have you tried stepping barefoot onto a very hot pavement? Ouch! Well, that pricking pain of extreme heat can also be felt by your dog. To keep his paw pads from burning and blistering, steer him away from hot pavements and sand.

9. Getting through wintertime blues.  Bitter cold is hard on everyone’s skin, and your dog is certainly not exempt. After outdoor walks, make sure that you have washed your dog’s paws with warm water so that salt, de-icers, and other harmful chemicals are rinsed away. To keep his pads from getting chapped or cracked, apply a paw protectant (available on Amazon.com). Letting your pooch wear doggie boots to protect against freezing ice and dangerous salts and snow-melting chemicals is also advisable.

A dog’s paws get a lot of rough use – they run over rocks, skate along the ice, stand up to the summer heat, and dig through sand and dirt. Those paw pads see a lot during a dog’s lifetime, so do your canine fur baby a favor and  help him keep those feet running safely and comfortably all year ’round!

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Nov 14

Weaning Your Kitten

How To Wean Kittens

 

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Weaning a kitten is the process of transitioning the kitten from mother’s milk to solid food. It’s an important part of the kitten’s development which needs to be done at the right time, and in the right way. Normally the mother cat, sometimes called the queen, will handle kitten weaning on her own. But when the mother has trouble producing milk, or when a litter of kittens is orphaned, we need to intervene. Here are some tips for smooth and successful kitten weaning.

When it’s at all possible, kittens should be exposed to some mother’s milk, especially within the first 12 to 24 hours of life. The first milk, or colostrum, contains antibodies that the kitten can only absorb during this time.

Mother cats produce milk for about 12 weeks, and kittens may try to nurse the entire time. During their first three weeks, kittens nurse (and nap) almost continuously. When their teeth come in, they may explore their mother’s food, imitating her by trying to eat it. By the kittens’ fourth or fifth week, mother cats encourage weaning by gradually cutting down nursing time for kittens with their sharp, growing teeth.

You can assist with weaning by offering a shallow dish of kitten milk replacement, available at pet supply stores. Kittens should never drink cow’s milk, which causes digestive upset and diarrhea. Dip your finger into the dish; let the kitten lick off the milk, and then guide it down to the bowl. A kitten may walk into its dish, cleaning the milk replacement from its paws as it figures out this new way of eating. This is a good thing. Never push a kitten’s nose into a dish; it could inhale the liquid and develop pneumonia or other lung problems.

Once kittens are accustomed to lapping from a bowl, combine the kitten milk replacement with a little canned food, happy-pets-blog-kitten-weaning-7mixed to a gruel-like consistency. When you are weaning a kitten onto solid food, it’s important to use a food formulated specifically for kittens. These formulas have the higher levels of calories, protein and calcium that growing kittens need. Serve this mush-meal at room temperature, three or four times a day. As kittens get used to eating it, gradually cut back the amount of milk replacement while increasing the food. Kittens will continue to supplement these meals with nursing, but as they get used to the taste, scent and texture of solid food, they will prefer it to mother’s milk. They should be eating regular food by eight to 10 weeks.

 

At this time, you also want to start handling the kittens so that they become accustomed to humans and to being petted.  This socializes the kittens so that they can be good house pets in the future.

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Kittens love to be swaddled, just like human babies.

TIPS

Weaning should be done gradually. Instinctively, the mother cat will discourage nursing. She may walk away from her nesting box to take a nap away from her increasingly active family. Kittens eating solid food can be separated from their mothers for longer periods. If the mother cat is still producing milk and the kittens have stopped nursing, reducing her food and water intake can help the milk dry up.

Kittens that stay with their mothers for at least eight weeks, or better yet, 10 to 12 weeks, are more adjusted socially than those separated earlier. But they can start chewing solid food, in addition to nursing, once their teeth start coming in, usually by three weeks.

 

It is important to always offer a shallow dish of fresh water to kittens, as they can get dehydrated easily.

 

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An orphaned or hand-fed kitten needs to be fed kitten milk replacement and not regular cow’s milk

Bottle-fed Babies

An orphaned or otherwise hand-fed kitten should always be given kitten milk replacement, not cow’s milk. Bottle-raised kittens can begin weaning a bit sooner than nursing kittens. At about three weeks, begin offering the kitten its milk replacement in a shallow dish, urging it to drink the same way you would show a nursing kitten. At first, keep a bottle ready if it rejects the bowl. As the kitten grows more comfortable taking meals from the dish, mix the milk replacement with a little canned kitten food. Gradually adjust the amount of milk replacement until the kitten is eating just food.

 

You should offer solid food fairly frequently throughout the day and even separate the kittens away from their mother for a few hours each day to help the weaning process along.

The older the kittens get, the longer they can stay away from the mother. Keep an eye out for any anxious behavior from the kittens or the mother. Once the kittens reach eight to twelve weeks of age they should be eating regular cat food and no longer nursing.

You should continue to handle the kittens to be sure that they are properly socialized and continue training them to properly use the litter box.

Kitten weaning is a natural process but they may just need a little help from you. The key: a little patience and a lot of love.

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Nov 07

Benefits of Pet Massage

The Benefits of Pet Massage

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Everyone knows that petting and scratching dogs or cats is one of the great pleasures in life, for the pets and for their devoted people. When we pet and scratch them, we can see much our fur babies enjoy it. Petting, scratching and rubbing are aspects of pet massage, but they are not the whole story.

Pet massage is substantially more and profoundly different. To understand, consider the difference between the results of a casual shoulder squeeze and the way your body feels after an hour-long therapeutic massage session.

Differences between Human and Pet Massage

What are some of the differences between the massage for a human and a massage you would give a dog or cat?

With a dog or cat, the practitioner must stay absolutely present, or else they will get up and walk away. A dog or cat will not tolerate deep pressure that induces pain.

Dogs and cats live in the moment and do not have the capacity to project into the future that relief may come after enduring discomfort. If it hurts now, it may hurt forever unless the pet does something to make it stop.

Dogs and cats use a wider, and different, range of senses than our paltry five. They are hardwired to notice sounds, movement and subtle nuances of smells. They are keenly aware of everything that is going on in the room and on the other side of the walls in the next room.

How to Begin

  • Invite your pet to lie down, but don’t turn this into a wrestling match. Think calm.
  • Begin by petting your pet, especially on the spots you know your pet enjoys
  • Then, as you feel him relax under your hands, begin petting with long strokes of your hands to relax him even more.
  • When he sighs and stretches out under your hands, you know he’s relaxed.
  • Begin the massage at his head, gently moving your hands in small circles, and gradually work your way over his entire body.
  • Use small soft movements with cats and small dogs, and larger movements with bigger dogs.

When you first begin massaging your dog or cat, just do it for one to two minutes; just enough to introduce your pet to it. As you begin to feel more comfortable with what you’re doing and your pet relaxes under your hands, you can increase the time. A small dog or cat massage covering the entire body might take four to five minutes. However, if you have a large dog, eventually it may take ten minutes to massage the entire dog.

 

Do not try to do deep tissue massage; this is not a therapeutic massage but instead is a relaxing one. Pressing hard and trying to manipulate the muscles could be painful and would cause your pet to dislike the massage and perhaps even bite or scratch you. Instead, keep the massage gentle.

If your pet has some health issues and some known sore spots, handle those areas gently. Let your pet tell you if it’s okay to massage those areas. If he flinches, pulls away from your hands, growls, meows, or otherwise shows discomfort, stop. If your pet shows discomfort and you don’t know why, call your veterinarian and have her take a look at your pet.

As you massage your dog or cat, pay attention as your hands—and especially fingertips—touch your pet. It’s hard to see your pet’s body under the hair but your fingertips can learn what’s normal.

A good way to practice this is to give your pet a calming massage until he’s relaxed. Then begin massaging again at your pet’s head, using your fingertips rather than your entire hands, and either close your eyes or look away. Concentrate on what you’re feeling. Using your fingertips work your way to the shoulders, back, abdomen, and all over your pet’s body.

As you do this, you can learn what your pet feels like. Then, should a problem arise—perhaps a lump under the skin, an engorged tick, or an atrophied muscle—you’ll notice it. You can then either take care of the problem or call your veterinarian.

Your pet may initially resist your efforts when you begin the massage.   After all, if he’s never had a massage this will be new to him. Some cats especially are anxious about anything new.

If, as you begin the massage, you find that your pet is getting tense under your hands, slow down your movements and see if that helps. If it doesn’t, stop, and let your dog or cat get up and stretch. Stretching is good for the body but it also helps the animal relieve stress.

Then, on the next day, see if your dog or cat will relax a little more under your hands. As your pet relaxes, he will learn that the massage feels good. Be patient, as introducing this massage may take some time.

When you feel that your pet is comfortable and relaxed when massaged, this might be a good time to do some grooming, like brushing or combing his coat or ear cleaning.

The Bottom Line – Benefits

  • Massage relieves stress. When done regularly, it helps prevent the negative effects of stress. Dogs and cats do experience stress and although they don’t seem to hold stress in their bodies the same way we do, stress, over time, can cause deeper long-term problems that require more serious intervention.
  • Massage is soothing and comforting. Who doesn’t need soothing and comforting? Consider times when your dog might need soothing or comforting.  When my Betsy was suffering with kidney disease, I gave her a long massage every night before she went to sleep.  I do think that it made her more relaxed and able to sleep in comfort.
  • Massage triggers the body’s natural ability to heal itself from injury, strain, surgery and exhaustion. There are those times when we or our dog are injured, or perhaps even have had surgery. Massage is often the best therapy to assist in the healing process.
  • Massage is an effective tool to detect stiffness, pain, swelling, tension and in the long run can avoid costly complications from overlooked problems.
  • Massage maximizes normal function of tissues, organs and bodily systems such as digestion, absorption of nutrients, elimination and the lymph system. Simply by the stress release and relaxation that massage produces, the entire body works more efficiently.
  • Massage helps muscles function more efficiently by loosening restrictions as a result of misuse or over use of our muscles. We all know the pain created when we continue to work when exhausted. One example is working out too long or too hard at the gym, or when we take longer walks after a sedentary winter.
  • Massage reduces the build-up of adhesions (internal scar tissue) in the muscles that result from inflammation due to injury, surgery or trauma. Adhesions limit range of motion by shortening the muscles. We can feel adhesions as ropey areas in muscles surrounding an injury.
  • Massage improves our dog’s agility whether in play or competition because of its positive effect on stretch receptors (sensory receptors that respond to the stretching of surrounding muscle tissue and so contributes to the coordination of muscle activity), tendon apparatus, muscle fibers and fascia (fascia is a network of connective tissue that surrounds body organs, groups of muscles, and nerves).
  • Massage encourages relaxation of the tissues through aiding in more efficient functioning of the nerves and chemical changes in the body.
  • Finally, and perhaps most importantly, massage increases the physical and emotional bond between you and your companion canine.

Massaging your dog or cat is a wonderful way to spend time with your pet. Not only can you both relax, but you can keep your pet well-groomed at the same time. Additionally, you will learn what his body feels like so you can keep track of any health problems.  Keep in mind that this should be relaxing for both of you, and it will definitely deepen the bond between you.

 

Oct 31

Fall Pet Care

Autumn Pet Care

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Now that autumn is well underway, the weather is cooler, holidays are around the corner, and some of us will prepare for winter. While seasonal changes are beautiful and herald happy celebrations, they also bring about a few concerns regarding your pets.

1. Beware of anti-freeze! Ingesting antifreeze is lethal for pets.  Unfortunately, both cats and dogs have been known to lick this sweet tasting substance. Make sure to check your car for leaks and make sure all bottles are stored far away from your pets.  Antifreeze drips and spills should be cleaned up immediately to avoid poisoning household animals

2. Don’t leave your pets outside for prolonged periods of time. It doesn’t have to be Winter for it to get cold–especially for puppies, senior pets and smaller animals.

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3. Beware of ticks. It’s still tick season and playing in the cool autumn leaves is one of the many ways your pooch could get them. Consider using a natural tick repellent to help protect your pet. Pay attention to your lawn care this time of year. Ticks prefer to live in tall grass, so giving your lawn a good manicure and keeping your pets confined can help keep your tick problem under control.

4. Let them have their fur coat. If you have a dog that you shave during the summer, let him start growing his coat back in the fall. Just like you need your Fall/Winter coat, he’ll needs his too.

 

5. The changing of seasons is great time to check your pet ID tags and microchip. Just take 5 minutes to make sure all your pet’s information is up to date and registered properly.

6. Make holiday arrangements with your dog walker, pet sitter, or doggy day care NOW. As the holidays approach, most of us will get busier and possibly have to travel. Take time out and plan ahead so you can make the holidays easier on your pets.

7. Fall celebrations, such as Thanksgiving and Halloween, often mean people coming over to visit your home. If you have a pet that has special needs or is wary of new people, be sure to tell your guests about your pet before they come over.

8. Be careful with holiday treats. Aside from known hazards such as chocolate, cooked bones, fat trimmings, and nuts, many fruits and vegetables can also be life threatening to pets. Please see my article Foods That Are Harmful To Your Pet for more information on foods that may harm your pet and make him sick.

9. This time of year encourages rodents to seek warmer shelter so do not leave any rodenticides in garages or sheds where your pet could get at them, as these can also be fatal if eaten.

10. Another turn of the season threat is snakes. As temperatures go down, snakes go into hibernation mode, which means they will be extra grumpy when disturbed. Pet owners who live near areas with snake-friendly, wooded areas should take extra care. Fall is also hunting season, which makes the woods an extra unsafe place for taking pets out walking.

11. With the change of the season come certain changes in the environment. Fall and spring are both mushroom seasons, which mean potential life-threatening problems to pets. Owners should watch out for umbrella-shaped mushrooms and brown mushrooms and take your pet to the vet immediately when a pet ingests one. Symptoms of illness can range from vomiting to severe digestive problems to complete liver failure.

 

Remember, each season comes with new adventures and enjoyment for pets as well as new health concerns. Knowing how to keep your pet healthy throughout each season will make both you and your pet happy and able to enjoy the time of year.

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Oct 24

Your Pet’s Whiskers

Fun Facts About Your Pet’s Whiskers

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Whiskers are amazing! They’re not just there for looks. Whiskers—for which the technical term is “vibrissae”—are a specialized type of hair found in many mammals, including cats and dogs.  The long, stiff hairs, which are thicker than normal hairs and tapered at the tips, aid a cat’s or dog’s sense of touch.

Like other hairs, whiskers grow from follicles, which extend about three times deeper into the skin than the follicles of normal hair. Bundles of nerves at the base of each follicle make the whiskers specially (exquisitely) attuned to the surrounding environment.

It’s interesting that even hairless breeds of dogs and cats usually still have whiskers. They may not have hair coat but they do tend to have a normal complement of whiskers.

 

CATS 

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Cats have four rows of whiskers on each side of the face, with the exact pattern and number unique to each cat, similar to a person’s fingerprint. There are also whiskers near the corner of the mouth and nose, on the chin, eyebrows and back side of the front legs. The whiskers behind the wrist on the foreleg are to assist with tree climbing and contact with prey. The muscles at the whisker hair follicle allow the whisker to move in different directions.  You can gauge a cat’s mood by looking at the position of his whiskers. They will generally be in a relaxed position, out to the side, if the cat is relaxed and happy. If they are forward, he is on the alert or inquisitive.  If they are moved back and flat against his cheeks, he is nervous or upset.

Your cat’s sensitive whiskers have many functions. They serve as a navigation system in that they send a signal to his brain if he is going through a narrow space. Not only do they brush against the obstacles, but they vibrate with changes in air movements that are reflected by objects or walls.  This is what helps them get around your house in the dark and what helps outdoor cats hunt at night.  Some research shows that they can detect odors as they pull the scented current of air toward their nose.  Whiskers are also important to a cat’s equilibrium.  If they are damaged or missing they can cause a cat to be disoriented or off balance.

Whiskers can be a bit of a nuisance when a cat is eating if the bowl is too narrow as they will touch the sides of the bowl, causing discomfort.  To prevent any discomfort, it is a good idea to provide your cat with wide food and water bowls.

Just as your eyelashes protect your eyes from dust and debris, your cat’s whiskers help keep out irritants. Whiskers also warn your cat if anything is getting too close to his face.  When something touches his whiskers, that alerts him to close his eyes.

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A cat’s orientation and motions can be impaired if she loses her whiskers, making it very important that you never cut or trim them. On their own, they will occasionally fall out and new whiskers will grow in their place.

 

DOGS

Dog whiskers are found on both sides of their muzzle, as well as on the forehead above the eyes, on their chin and above the upper lip. As puppies grow, the whiskers are among the first hairs to develop. Unlike the neatly arranged 12 whiskers in four rows on each side of a cat’s face, dog whiskers are more varied in their pattern depending on their breed and genetics.

Whiskers are twice as thick and coarser than regular dog hair. Their roots are set three times deeper and packed with nerves and blood vessels that make each individual whisker a super sensitive receptor to movement. Air moving it or objects brushing against it causes the whisker to vibrate and stimulates the nerves. Dog whiskers are as sensitive as our fingertips.

Whiskers play an important role in helping dogs understand and move through their environment. The importance of happy-pets-blog-whiskers-8the whiskers is easier to understand when you consider the areas of the brain devoted to touch information. Almost 40% of those areas are dedicated to the regions where the whiskers are located. In fact, each individual whisker can be traced back to a specific location in the brain.

Highly sensitive to subtle changes in air currents, canine whiskers serve as receptors for important information about the size, shape and speed of nearby objects. This helps dogs, for whom vision is not the most highly evolved trait of the senses, “see” objects more clearly, even in the dark. Being able to feel vibrations in the air also helps dogs sense approaching dangers.

Besides the important impact of whiskers on a dog’s tactile sensations, they can also relay messages about how a dog is feeling.   Like cats, dogs will often reflexively flare their whiskers and then point them in a forward direction when they feel threatened, which some scientists believe indicates that whiskers play a role in the defense strategy during combative situations with predators and other dogs.

 

 Caring for Your Pet’s Whiskers

Whiskers are not painful when they are cut as they don’t have pain receptors, but it can be disorienting for a pet to lose them.  Do not cut or trim them because it may lead to confusion or decreased spatial awareness (knowledge of objects in relation to oneself in that given space).

 

Pet whiskers play a very important part in your dog or cat’s everyday life.  They are navigation aids, early warning systems, and indicators of mood.  So, love your pet……and respect the whiskers!
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Oct 17

Feeding Your Senior Cat

Nutritional Needs for Senior Cats

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Cats begin go to show visible age-related changes at about seven to twelve years of age.  A senior cat may start to become less active, spend more time indoors and have a slower metabolism. These changes can all add up to weight gain for your cat. Equally, as cats reach their geriatric years, illness and a reduction in their sense of taste and smell can affect their appetites, which will have an impact on their body condition.

As felines get older, their nutritional requirements start to change. And as your cat will spend roughly 40% of their life as a senior, it’s important that you give them the right food to stay in good shape. In their senior years, more than ever, your cat should eat a high quality, tasty diet with easy-to-digest protein and a careful balance of key nutrients.

A good senior cat diet provides concentrated high quality protein, controlled levels of fat, and easy-to-digest carbohydrates for energy. Key minerals support aging joints, and vitamins, along with proteins, help support their aging immune system.

It is recommended that you start your cat on a senior diet around seven years of age. The main objective in properly feeding an older cat should be to maintain his health and optimum body weight, to slow or prevent the development of chronic disease, and to minimize or improve signs of diseases that may already be present.

Signs of Aging      

As a cat ages, health issues may arise:

Deterioration of skin and coat  – For healthy hair, skin, and body, your cat needs a diet with a good balance of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats,

Loss of muscle mass – High-protein, high-quality food can help with muscle mass in aging cats. Foods especially designed for senior cats are best.  Look at the ingredients list for some type of easily digestible meat, like chicken (not meat by-products) as the first ingredient.

More frequent intestinal problems –  Cats with inflammatory bowel disease and colitis can benefit from diets which have highly digestible sources of protein, fat, and carbohydrates.

Obesity – The overweight pet has many added stresses upon his body and is at an increased risk of diabetes, liver problems and joint pain. Contact and consult with your veterinarian before starting on a weight loss program for your senior cat.

Dental problems -Dental disease is common in senior cats. If left untreated, it may lead to painful tooth loss or other serious health conditions. A preventive dental care routine, which can include specially formulated oral care cat food, can help reduce plaque and prevent gum disease.

Decreased ability to fight off infection – Maintaining the strength of the aging immune system is also a priority, and this can be done with the addition of antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids in the diet.

A Few Tips

Proper care for geriatric cats should involve a daily routine that is consistent in keeping them at their healthiest level and  periodic veterinary exams  (every six months is recommended) to assess any presence or progress of chronic disease.

It is important to avoid stress or stressful situations and abrupt changes in your senior cat’s daily routine.

Encourage your senior cat to drink more water. To do that, if you’ve been on dry food, you may have to go to canned or semi-moist food. The American Association of Feline Practitioners actually recommends feeding cats wet food throughout their lives now.

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Use a clean, low bowl or saucer to feed your senior cat.

Serve your senior cat’s food in a clean, low bowl or saucer. Some older felines don’t like their whiskers touching the side of the bowl.

Don’t allow wet food to go dry in the bowl as cats can be particular about the freshness of their food.

Remember to feed your cat small portions frequently throughout the day rather than one large portion once a day. It will help them digest their food more easily.

Avoid vegan or vegetarian diets. Cats are obligate carnivores. Cats must eat meat, it is a biological necessity.  Grain-based proteins should never be used as the primary protein source for geriatric cats.

 

What Ingredients Should Be in Senior Cat Food?

High quality ingredients are more digestible which means your cat will absorb more of the nutrients he needs.

Senior cats also need an essential amino acid called taurine to help keep their systems functioning at their best, especially if their appetite has decreased with age. The fish, poultry, or meat found in cat food usually offers adequate levels of this heart healthy nutrient. For more information on the importance of taurine in your cat’s diet, please see my article on Understanding Your Cat’s Nutritional Needs, dated Oct. 10, 2016.

Extra Vitamin E is great for senior cats in order to help strengthen their immune system and it is a good source of fiber to prevent constipation.  Food that contains cranberries is helpful for urinary tract health.

Because of slowing metabolisms and activity levels, most older cats tend to need fewer calories and less fat. As a result, senior formulas generally have fewer calories compared to adult formulas.

Weight maintenance formulas can minimize fat and calories as well as provide more digestible proteins and fiber.

However, as some cats age, their eating habits and ability to absorb nutrients can change, which may result in weight loss. If your senior cat is underweight, consult your veterinarian to rule out any medical conditions and on choosing higher calorie formulas.

 

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A good diet for an older cat has the following characteristics:

  • High antioxidant levels (e.g. Vitamins A, C, and E, beta carotene, and selenium) to counteract free radical damage.
  • Low levels of phosphorus to protect the kidneys. High quality protein sources contain less phosphorous than do those of low quality.
  • Enough protein to maintain a cat’s muscle mass. Extra carnitine (an amino acid) can also help in this regard.
    Fish oils and other sources of essential fatty acids to counteract the effects of brain aging and promote joint health.
  • A moderate to high level of fat, based on a cat’s body condition score. Skinny cats need a lot of fat to maximize their caloric intake. Overweight cats can do with a bit less.
  • And last, but equally important, it should be appealing in taste and smell to stimulate your cat’s appetite. Add water from canned tuna to increase the aroma of the food, if needed. As cats can become even more finicky with old age,you may need to heat canned or moistened dry food in the microwave to a warm temperature. This will increase the aroma of the food.

As the pet parent of a senior kitty, you naturally want his remaining years to be good years, not just years. Choosing the right kind of food for your senior cat can help him to lead a long, healthy life with you.

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