May 23

Traveling With Your Cat

Traveling With Your Cat

happy pets blog cat in suitcase

It’s safe to say that cats tend to be more than unenthusiastic travelers, but if you’re prepared, have the proper equipment/supplies, and plan your trip with a cat’s eye view, all can go well. Visit with your vet and discuss the trip you are going to take with your cat so that he can advise you on any medications or tips that will be helpful in making your travels a pleasant experience for you and your pet.

Road Tripping with Your Cat

Start Preparing Early

The single most important thing you can do to prepare your cat for car travel is to sensitize it to the experience. If you have a young kitten and take him on some short car trips during that time period, the kitten will become accustomed to car travel. It may never particularly like it, but it will tolerate it.

To get your cat used to riding in the car, start by taking short drives around the block and gradually increase the time you spend in the car until your cat is comfortable going for rides. It may help relieve stress to give your cat Rescue Remedy or Feliway spray, two natural remedies for keeping kitties calm.
Get prescription medication for motion sickness, if necessary. If your cat is prone to motion sickness, which your trial runs should determine, ask your vet to prescribe medication. Anti-nausea medication such as chlorpromazine can be used to help control motion sickness.

The signs of a cat with motion sickness include: continual crying or vocalizing, excessive drooling, immobility, or acting afraid to move, or excess activity or pacing, vomiting, or urinating or defecating.   Ginger has also been used to treat nausea in humans and it is safe to use in cats; this can be found in liquid form or chews from on-line pet stores or from your veterinary clinic.

Car Travel Checklist

You’ll need lots of stuff to keep kitty healthy and happy (or at least contented!). Here’s a checklist of must-have items that you’ll not want to leave home without:

happy pets blog cat in sleepypod carrier

Sleepypod carriers are excellent for car travel for cats and have been crash tested.

Carrier
Always keep your cat in a carrier when the car is moving! The carrier you choose should be big enough for your kitty to sit, stand, turn around, and lie down. Spend time introducing your cat to the carrier before your trip so he or she is used to it and comfortable before the big day. SleepyPod makes wonderful carriers for car travel, and they are the only pet carriers on the market that have been crash-tested for safety!

Place your cat in the carrier with the harness on. Car rides are stressful for cats regardless if they like them or not. Having a harness and a leash on the cat whenever it is out of the carrier (even in the car) gives you something to grab in case the cat decides to bolt from an open window or door.

Food, water and bowls. Be sure to bring along your cat’s regular food, and even the water that your cat is accustomed to drinking. If that’s tap water, bottle some and bring it along.

Toys and bedding. Bring along some comforts of home. Choose some favorite toys and familiar bedding that the cat already uses. Scratching posts or scratch pads are important to have for your cat.

Litter and accessories. You probably won’t bring your cat’s regular litter box. But DO bring the brand of litter that you use at home, and that’s already familiar to your cat. Also bring along disposable litter trays, OR a small non-disposable litter tray, a scooper, and disposable bags.

Medications and Feliway or Rescue Remedy for any anxiety or motion sickness that may affect your cat.

Stop for Breaks, Rest, and Exercise

If you’re the type that likes to hit the road hard and drive 5, 6, 7 hours at a stretch, you’ll need to change to accommodate kitty. Plan to stop every couple of hours to give your cat a break.

If you’re in a safe location, you can let your cat out of the carrier for a few minutes – but BE CAREFUL. If the cat is stressed it might be inclined to bolt at the first opportunity. Be sure your cat is wearing its ID tag.

When you do stop, do not leave your car parked in direct sunlight with the windows rolled up – not even for a couple of minutes. And don’t leave your cat in direct sunlight on a warm day inside or outside of the car.

Food
Many kitties will get carsick if they have a full belly, so feed your cat 3-4 hours before you get in the car and then take any remaining food away to avoid an upset stomach.

Water
Give your cat plenty of water to drink. Bring a portable water dish in the car with you and offer it to your cat when you stop for breaks along the way. It’s a good idea to bring a large supply of your own water from home whenever you travel, as the water supply from unfamiliar places could upset your cat’s stomach.

Safety
Never, ever leave your cat alone in a parked car! This is especially important in warm weather, as pets can quickly develop heatstroke and die in a matter of minutes in a car. Also, be careful to keep them from harmful cold weather and safe from theft.

Luggage
When you’re packing your bags, be sure the pack a separate bag just for your cat. Include everything your cat needs to feel at home – food and water bowls, any medications, litter and a scoop, toys, treats, and even your vet records, just in case you should need them. It’s a good idea to bring your cat’s favorite blanket or bed to give him a sense of home.

Road tripping with your cat can be fun and hopefully at least be tolerated by your cat. Plan ahead, bring along some of the cat’s comforts of home, take things easy with plenty of rest stops, and all is likely to go well.

cat car random 3 wth

Tips for Traveling by Plane

Checkup
Have your cat seen by the veterinarian before you travel to make sure he or she is ready to fly. Some airlines require a health certificate from the vet, so check with the airline when you book your flight. You may also need to show proof that your kitty is current on vaccinations. Note that airlines will not accept a sedated animal because it is more difficult to know if the animal is experiencing any health problems, including heat stroke.  Rescue Remedy is an acceptable calming alternative as the animal remains fully alert.

Booking
Minimize stress on your kitty by booking direct flights whenever possible. Though some airlines will allow pets to travel in the cargo hold of the plane, you should always travel with your cat in the cabin because it’s much safer! It’s not recommended to have your cat fly in the cargo hold of the airplane.

Carrier
In order for your cat to travel in the cabin of the plane with you, you’ll need to be able to fit her carrier under the seat in front of you. The SturdiBag pet carrier is perfect for this use. Or, search for other airline approved, soft sided carriers.

Additional tips for a smoother flight for both you and your pets

Exercise your cat before the flight.  A tired pet is a calmer pet.

Note that airlines will not accept a sedated animal because it is more difficult to know if the animal is experiencing any health problems, including heat stroke.  Rescue Remedy is an acceptable calming alternative as the animal remains fully alert.

Ensure that your pet has had fresh food and water within 4 hours of the flight time.

***Tags and microchips should be up to date with your most recent contact information.

Call your airline well in advance of your trip as most airlines limit the number of pet carriers that can be inside the cabin for each flight

Major US Airlines That Allow Pets to Fly With You In The Cabin

American Airlines: Cats and dogs

US Airways: Cats and dogs

Air Canada: Cats and dogs

Alaska Airlines:  Cats and dogs

Delta Airlines: Cats and dogs

Frontier Airlines:  Cats and dogs, hamsters, guinea pigs, rabbits, and small household birds

Jet Blue:  Cats and dogs

Southwest: Cats and dogs

Contact each specific airline for more information (number of pets allowed, age requirement, maximum kennel size, weight limit, and fee).  More information can be found at PetTravel.com

IMPORTANT!!!

Always keep identification on your cat when you’re traveling. If your cat has a microchip, great! If not, make sure he or she is wearing a collar with an identification tag that is printed with your current contact information. Since you’ll be traveling, the tag should include your mobile phone number. It’s also a good idea to include any special needs your cat may have. For example, if your cat needs daily medication have that printed on his tag, too. That information may encourage someone to call you or take your cat to a vet should he become lost.

When You’ve Arrived At Your Destination

Hotels
If you’re staying in a hotel, it’s a good idea to use the “Do Not Disturb” sign when you’re away. You don’t want housekeeping to enter the room and accidentally let your cat escape! Also, if your cat will use them, disposable litter boxes, available at Petsmart and Amazon.com, make packing and cleaning up a breeze.

Staying with Guests
If you and your cat are staying with family or friends, confine your cat to a single room – at least until you’re sure he or she is comfortable in his new surroundings. Be sure that your hosts are not in the habit of leaving doors and windows open and that there is no way your kitty will be able to escape. If your hosts have pets of their own, keep your cat separated from them until you’ve had time to make proper, slow introductions.

Spray wherever you’re staying with Feliway (or use the Feliway diffuser) before putting your cat in the room. Feliway products are available at Petco.com, Amazon, Chewy.com, and Drs. Foster and Smith. If you go out, put your cat in its carrier and the ‘Do Not Disturb’ sign on your door, in case the maid should come by. If you’re going to be out for the day, put the cat in the bathroom with its things and shut the door (if possible). Then leave a note on the door stating your cat is currently in there and to please be careful not to let it out.

By taking a few precautions and following these tips, perhaps your cat can enjoy taking a vacation with you!

happy pets cat at spa

 

 

May 16

Moving with Your Pets

Helping Your Pets Adjust to a New Home

happy pets blog moving with your pet 5

Here are some ways to help your pet make the transition to a new home:

The first step in helping your pet prepare for moving day is getting her used to a pet carrier. No matter how near – or far – you’re moving, she will be safer in a pet carrier. If she’s never been in a carrier, introduce the idea slowly. Start by putting a blanket and pet treats inside, leaving the door open, and making the experience a positive one. Please see my blog on Crate Training Your Dog,dated February 29, 2016.

Once she’s comfortable with the carrier, the next step is familiarizing your pet with car travel. Start with short, 10-minute rides, then longer 20-minute rides. You’ll find that your pet’s anxiety decreases as she becomes more accustomed to sights and sounds associated with car travel. Be sure to leave the carrier out in the house during this time so your pet gets used to it and even sleeps inside it whenever she chooses. While you’re packing boxes, be sure to let your curious little buddy sniff around and have her own fun. Just don’t box her up by accident!

For dogs, consider taking your dog to your new neighborhood for walks before you move in. Walk by your new house and let your dog familiarize himself with the scents of the neighborhood. Go inside the new house and also let him explore the yard, if possible. Or try to bring something from the new house to your dog so he can familiarize himself with its unique smell.

While you’re packing, try not to isolate your dog in a dog crate. Instead, include him while you pack and move boxes, allowing him to investigate the activity. If your dog is crated or isolated in a room by himself while the rest of the family packs and prepares to move, he’ll likely feel nervous which could lead to stress-related behaviors such as hyperactivity, jumping or barking.

Before you let your pet into your new house, make sure to inspect it from her point of view – inside and out. Remove any dangling cords from drapes or blinds to help keep your pet safe. Once your pet arrives, make sure to keep doors and windows closed and close any holes or crawl spaces where your pet might hide and would be out of your reach.

Just like people, every pet is unique and has a personality all their own. Because you know your pet better than anyone, you can probably predict how smoothly the transition will go. If you know that your pet is extremely skittish, talk to your veterinarian well beforehand about your concerns. He or she can recommend medication to help relax your pet during this stressful time, if it’s absolutely necessary.

Be consistent. Keep your routine schedule for feeding, walks, playtime, cuddling and bedtime. If a dog is used to using a doggy door, set one up in your new place. If your cat is accustomed to outdoor time, arrange for that — even if you have to use a leash initially for safety purposes and to keep him from running away.

Bring favorites. You may be tempted to get your pet new toys and things, but this is not a good time to introduce new items. Instead, bring your pet’s favorite bed, crate, toys, food and water dishes, treats and other familiar items. Put them in similar places as they were in your previous home. Favorites will help your pet feel in control and at home more quickly.

Minimize anxiety. Think of ways to ease your pet’s transition. Some animals will feel best being near you no matter what you’re doing. Others will do better in a crate away from the moving madness. Or perhaps it’s better for your little buddy to stay at a friend or family member’s home during the actual move; joining you once you’ve unpacked. The more secure they feel, the better they’ll weather the change.

Keep them safe. During the packing stage, the actual move and the transition in the new home, plan for your pet’s safety. Some animals will be upset and scared once the boxes and suitcases take over. They may hide or run away. Set aside a safe place where they can’t get lost or hurt. Make sure your pet has identification and your contact information, and that you have copies of veterinarian records. Learn about any aggressive animals in the neighborhood, or any structural risks in the home or yard.

**SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT CATS:        happy pets blog moving with your pet 2

Once you’re in your new home, your cat may “disappear” for a few days. She may choose her cat carrier, a closet or underneath a bed. Cats that move into new homes may appear to have a type of feline anxiety attack. Without familiar sights and sounds, cats may search for hiding places, the darker, the better. Normally eager eaters may need coaxing to finish a meal. Others may seem a little moody and forgetful when it comes to the litter box. They may try to escape out the front door, trying to find their way back to familiar surroundings. That’s why it’s more important than ever to make sure your pets – dogs as well as cats – are microchipped. (Don’t forget to update your new address with the microchip provider.)

She’ll pick up on your mood, so be sure to follow your normal routine and reassure her that everything is back to normal. Encourage her to eat as she used to, and try to avoid having visitors. Anything you can do to get things back to normal will be helpful.

You may want to choose a special room that will be her private refuge, complete with her food and water bowls, bed, scratching post, and litter box – all the comforts of her previous home. You could also include something with your scent, such as a worn T-shirt or slippers. Once she’s comfortable there, she can begin to explore the rest of the house, perhaps one room at a time, when she decides she’s ready. (Make sure to keep a second litter box in the location where you plan to keep one permanently.) Soon she’ll realize that the new home she shares with you is nothing to be afraid of, and she’ll be back to her old lovable self.

Be patient. Allow your pets to take their time sniffing around their new digs. Let them explore — and if they decide to hide for a while, that’s OK as long as they know where the doggy door or litter box is. Allow them to come out when they are ready. Their behavior may change for a while, including eating and “potty” habits, barking, pacing or protection behaviors. They need time to get used to their new home, just as you do.

Love ’em up. Give your pet the attention he is used to. A bit of extra loving will go a long way as they come to feel at home in their new surroundings. Remember that difficult behaviors are a result of their discomfort with the change and a sense of not feeling in control. Difficult behaviors don’t mean the pet is bad and can’t change. If difficult behaviors persist, get help from a professional trainer or veterinarian, and remember all the unconditional love they give you.

Keep these tips in mind. If you’ve moved a long distance, now is the perfect time to ask your new neighbors to recommend a new veterinarian for your pets. Schedule a “get to know you” visit for your pets as soon as possible so you have a vet in the event of a veterinary emergency.

If possible, allow yourself a few extra days to spend at home with your pet after the move and before returning to work. During this period of adjustment, you can begin to stay away from home for short periods of time to get your pets used to being alone in their new space.

Do not leave your dog unattended outside during this adjustment period. Dogs have been known to jump fences in an attempt to return to their old, familiar territory. Please seriously consider microchipping your pet if you haven’t already done so.  Also, keep a safety/break away collar on him with a slide-on id tag with important information should he try to run to his old home.

It is important for you to keep calm and try to remain in a normal temperament during this time so that your pets do not sense any stress or tension in you. As difficult as this may be, it will keep your pet from becoming stressed or anxious and help him to adjust to his new surroundings.

happy pets blog moving with your pet 3

May 09

Obesity in Cats

How to Prevent and Treat Cat Obesity

Cat, or feline obesity is a growing problem, but there are steps you can take to prevent or treat it. Obesity, or the excessive accumulation of body fat, is the most common nutrition-related condition in cats in our society today.

Obesity in cats us usually caused by too much food and too little exercise and is more common in older, less active felines and in spayed females whose weight is not well managed. Health problems related to obesity include heart disease, a reduced life span, labored or difficulty in breathing, greater risk of heat stroke, greater risk of liver disease, diabetes, and osteoarthritis.

happy pets blog cat obesity

Do You Have a Fat Cat?

Here are some at-home tests to tell if your cat is overweight:

Rib check – You should be able to feel your pet’s ribs under a thin layer of skin. Also, if you stand above your cat, looking down at his back, you should be able to detect his waistline as a slight indention just behind the ribs.

Tummy test – A swinging pouch between your cat’s hind legs is a sign that he is overweight. Cats with a healthy weight will have a tummy that is tight and tucked upward, rather than hanging down.

Grooming test – If the area of your cat’s midline lower back looks matted or ungroomed, or if his anal area looks unclean, this may be an indication that he is obese and unable to reach those spots to groom himself.

Treatment

The most effective weight-loss programs are based on feeding fewer calories and increasing activity.

It is always a good idea to discuss your cat’s health issue with obesity with your veterinarian so that healthy, effective weight loss program and goal can be established. Ask your veterinarian to recommend the proper daily calories your cat should have based on his age, gender, medical conditions, and lifestyle.

Feeding

Regarding feeding, veterinarians may suggest one of more of the following:

happy pets blog cat nutrition

Feeding your cat the same amount of food divided in smaller meals throughout the day. This may help burn calories more efficiently

Cutting back on the amount of your cat’s daily feeding.  This may be effective if paired with increased activity.

Gradually changing your cat’s food to a low-calorie type can help, again, with increased activity.  Don’t change all at once, but gradually, as this may cause stomach upset.

When feeding treats to your cat, be sure to count those calories in with his daily caloric intake number.

Rather than leaving out food bowls 24/7, pick up the food for parts of the day.  Try leaving it out for 4-5 hours twice daily, then cut back to 2-3 hours a day twice daily, etc. The goal is to put down 2-3 measured amounts of food per day and to have them eat that portion completely.

*Feeding table scraps, unless recommended by your veterinarian, is not wise.

Exercising Your Cat

cat fat cat under water crazy cat lady

Make playtime with your cat count as exercise time. Playing with your cat serves as excellent bonding time, and it’s fun and stimulating for your cat.

Offer a variety of toys. Change up and alternate your cat’s toys so that he doesn’t get bored. Don’t leave all of his toys out all the time.

Use food as a toy.  You can use a treat ball and fill it with kibble/dry food and throw it across the room, down a long hall, etc. You can use a portion of his meals each day and play with it by tossing a few pieces in different directions, or up in the air so that they will run and pounce on it, or even jump for it.  Throw it down a hallway or down steps so that they will run after it.

By getting your cat to move more, they will eventually become healthier and they will also look forward to their regular playtime with you.    happy pets blog cat obesity 3

Award beggars with attention – not food. Shift the attention of feeding time to attentive time with you by playing with them, brushing or combing them, or other things they enjoy doing with you.  By shifting the focus of food to active attention with you, your cat will have stimulating highlights to his day and will be healthier.  He will enjoy a long, happy, and active life for years to come.

 

May 02

Should You Hug Your Dog?

Does Your Dog Really Want To Be Hugged?

happy pets blog dog being hugged by woman

There seems to be a lot of controversy now regarding dogs and hugging.  There are ‘experts’ who claim that dogs feel threatened and that what you interpret as enjoyment from them might be the dog simply enduring the moment, or possibly barely contained dislike for what is happening.  The theory is that because dogs are animals that, in times of stress or threat, have a first line defense of their ability to run away, they may feel surrounded and immobilized when hugged, which may cause their stress and anxiety levels to increase.

I strongly believe that the answer to the question: does my dog like to be hugged depends on her personality and background, and on your relationship with each other.  You might already know exactly how your dog feels about hugging.  If she leans into you and snuggles up, it’s safe to say that she likes her hugs from you and does not feel threatened or immobilized in any way.

It’s important to be sure how your dog feels about being hugged by you, but it’s also important to know how she feels when strangers go in for a hug.  If a dog barely tolerates hugs, then the wrong hug at the wrong time from the wrong person may trigger anxiety or fear in your dog and could result in your dog snapping at the hugger.

Thankfully, dogs make their thoughts abundantly clear through their body language, and as long as you know what to look for, you will know what your dog thinks of a loving squeeze. Please see my article on Understanding Your Dog’s Body Language, dated March 28 2016.

A very good way of determining whether your dog likes to be hugged is to have someone take a photo of the two of you hugging. While we’re hugging our pets, we don’t see their faces, so the photo will tell the true tale.

Signs of Distress

Bared teeth is an obvious sign of anxiety

If your dog turns her head away from you and your hug (averted gaze), she is turning away from whatever is worrisome or distressing

When a dog’s mouth is open and relaxed, the dog is relaxed. If your dog closes her mouth when you hug her, she may be experiencing a change in her feelings

Licking, yawning, or raising a paw can be signs of distress

Lowering her ears or slicking them back against her head

If your dog “shakes it off” (as in after a bath) after a hug, she may be showing displeasure

(There is no sound in the video below)

 

If your dog happens to be of the type that isn’t into hugs, there are alternatives, like scratching or belly rubs. But, for the dog-lovers who can’t live without their puppy cuddles, you can always try counter-conditioning until you are certain that your dog is on the same page. Counter-conditioning is to hug your dog briefly and then give her a treat.  Repeat as needed.

Remember That Every Dog Is An Individual

Each dog is different, with different personalities and feelings, so it’s important to remember that your dog might prefer an ear scratch instead of a hug, or may only enjoy hugs from you and no one else.  Few dogs are comfortable with hugs from children who clasp the dog around the neck and hang on.  This may be very threatening to a dog, so be aware of this when your dog is interacting with your family. It is recommended to take great care in teaching children to be gentle and move slowly around pets.  To keep everyone safe, be sure to start off with controlled, supervised interactions between dogs and young children. Ensure that your dog is given her space when needed and always monitor the dog’s body language during interactions to make sure that both dog and children are comfortable and are having fun.

To continue the amazing relationship we have with our pets we must take on the responsibility of seeing the world from their perspective. This definitely includes the simple act of hugging. If you truly want to be your dog’s best friend, find out what they do and do not like and adjust your actions to what makes them comfortable.

happy pets blog dog being hugged by little boy2

 

Apr 25

Basic First Aid For Your Pet

Basic First Aid For Your Pet

Dog and cat together on white background. Wide angle picture.

Have a basic first aid kit handy for your pet.

Recommended First Aid Kit Items

2-inch athletic tape

2-inch Vet Wrap or ace bandage

Gauze

Telfa Pads (non-stick bandage pads)

Triple antibiotic ointment

Blood stop powder – for broken toenails (Kwik Stop, cornstarch, flour)

Digital Thermometer

Benadryl 25 mg tablets

Hydrogen Peroxide – to clean fresh wounds

Saline or Contact lens solution – to flush wounds or eyes

Pepto Bismol- for treating diarrhea in dogs only

Tweezers or Tick Twister – to remove splinters or ticks

Activated cold packs – to apply to bumps and bruises to reduce swelling

Allergic Reactions or Insect Bites

Symptoms of an allergic reaction or insect bite include swelling of muzzle or face, hives, rash, scratching and chewing at the skin. You can give Benadryl at 1 mg for 1 pound of body weight. (Example: two 25 mg tablets for a 50-pound dog.) Call a veterinarian if there is any breathing problems or extreme lethargy.

Removing Ticks

If you’re fortunate enough to find a tick that has not imbedded and is still moving around on your pet’s skin, it can be easily removed with your fingers or with tweezers and then disposed of safely (flushed down the toilet or put in a jar of alcohol).

If the tick is embedded or firmly attached to your pet’s skin, here are a few tips on how to remove a tick completely and safely.

 

Best way:

happy pets blog tick twister

Tick Twister – Excellent tool for removing ticks on your pet

Purchase a Tick Twister at any Petco store, or online at Chewy.com, Petco.com, or Amazon.com.  These simple gadgets are inexpensive and very easy to use.  They remove the tick’s whole body without leaving the head and mouth parts in your pet’s body. All you do is slide the fork end of the tool toward the tick until it is caught between the prongs. Lightly lift the tool and rotate it in either direction several turns. You will feel the tick when it has released its mouth parts, and then you can pull up on the tick with the Twister. Carefully take the tick out of the forked area and be sure to use either plastic gloves or a tissue when handling it and dispose of it properly.

The Tick Twister is excellent for removing ticks from pets because it doesn’t squeeze or crush the body of the tick, which may force infective body fluids through its mouth parts into your pet’s wound site.  When ticks bite, they insert their long mouth part into the skin.  This area is covered with sharp, backward facing barbs (similar to a harpoon) which help keep the tick firmly attached while it feeds. The twisting motion of the Tick Twister removed the tick while keeping the mouth parts intake. Pulling on a tick with ordinary tweezers can leave the mouth parts embedded in the skin which may later cause infection.

If you are using tweezers:

Prepare: Dab the tick and close-surrounding areas with rubbing alcohol. Use fine-tipped tweezers or a notched tick extractor, and protect your fingers with a tissue, paper towel, or latex gloves.

Get Ready: Using tweezers, grasp the ticks body close to the pets skin as possible (while being careful not to catch any skin).

Go: Slowly and firmly, pull the tick straight out of the skin without squeezing. Pulling too fast can decapitate the tick, leaving the head embedded in your dog. Squeezing can release the fluids inside the tick into your pet’s body.

Disposal: The tick should either be flushed down the toilet or dunked into rubbing alcohol. Disposal is very important so that the tick does not reappear on your pet or you.

After care: Clean the affected area with alcohol and apply antibacterial ointment to the area. You should see a small hole where the tick was. Watch this area for the next few days to ensure infection does not set in.

*A very small tick could be a deer tick. If you can, save it in alcohol and bring it to your veterinarian. Deer ticks often carry Lyme disease and, if you find one, there are likely more where it came from and you should consider vaccination as an option.

Regardless of tick type, note the date of the bite. Tick-related illness can take some time to show up, so that date will be useful if illness occurs.

Keep an eye on the area where the tick was to see if an infection surfaces. If the skin remains irritated or infected, make an appointment with your veterinarian.

Watch your dog for symptoms of tick-borne diseases. Some symptoms include arthritis or lameness that lasts for three to four days, reluctance to move, swollen joints, fever, fatigue, swollen lymph nodes, loss of appetite and neurological problems.

Diarrhea

Diarrhea is loose stool with increased frequency. Diarrhea can be caused by stress or change in diet.  Make sure your pet continues to drink water to maintain hydration. You can give your pet a bland diet such as boiled hamburger or chicken and rice. You can also give your dog Pepto Bismol at 1 teaspoon for every 20 pounds of body weight to help control the diarrhea. Pepto Bismol should not be used in cats. If your pet begins to become lethargic or diarrhea persists for more than 24 hours call your veterinarian.

What Causes Diarrhea In Cats and Dogs?
  •     Dairy or other food intolerance
  •     Change in diet
  •     Ingestion of spoiled food
  •     Allergic reaction
  •     Bacterial or viral infection
  •     Internal parasites, such as roundworms, coccidia and Giardia
  •     Inflammatory bowel disease
  •     Kidney or liver disease
  •     Cancer or other tumors of the digestive tract
  •     Certain medications
  •     Hyperthyroidism
  •     Colitis
  •     Stress
  •     Hemorrhagic gastroenteritis

happy pets blog first aid for pets 4

Wounds

Stop bleeding by applying pressure with gauze or a towel. If bleeding continues, wrap the area if possible with gauze and apply pressure by wrapping vet wrap or an ace bandage.  Once bleeding is controlled clean the area with hydrogen peroxide or saline. Wounds can be difficult to see through hair so look carefully. Once a wound is cleaned you can cover it with triple antibiotic ointment and then a telfa pad. Then keep the telfa pad in place by wrapping it with vet wrap. Contact a veterinarian as soon as you can to have the wound accessed.

Bleeding Toenails – Broken, Torn or Trimmed Too Close

To stop bleeding from a nail that is trimmed too close to the quick or broken away from the quick, you can pack the end of the nail with bar soap, styptic powder (Kwik Stop), cornstarch, flour, or tea leaves from a tea bag. Pack the coagulant up against the bleeding quick, and hold it there for a minute or two.

Until the bleeding stops, keep your dog or cat in a room like a bathroom that will be easy to clean. (It’s tough to clean blood out of carpet!) Your veterinarian most likely uses a product like styptic sticks or Kwik Stop to stop the bleeding quickly when nail trimming is done in their clinics. You can find these at most pet supply stores (Petco, or online at Chewy.com, Petco.com, or Amazon.com), and it might be a good idea to stock some in your pet’s first aid kit if this happens often in your house.

Remember, animals in pain sometimes bite out of self-preservation instincts, so be aware of this as you try to help your pet. Occasionally a nail that breaks off very close to the nail bed results in an infection in the toe. This will require a veterinary clinic visit and antibiotic treatment, so watch for any limping that persists longer than two days.

If possible, remove any of the broken part of nail that may still be attached. This broken end often causes the dog more pain and may increase or continue the bleeding every time the torn piece is disturbed.  The quickest way to do this is with a dog toenail clipper. Sometimes the piece is barely hanging on and they can be pulled off (quickly) with your hand.

The injured nail needs to be gently washed off.  Use warm water to remove any debris lodged between the nail and the toe or leg. If there is active bleeding, wait on washing. Apply gentle firm pressure with a clean cloth to the area. A firm grasp around the entire foot works best, if the dog will allow it.

Vomiting

Vomiting is a common symptom, and repeated vomiting when combined with diarrhea can rapidly lead to dehydration.  This is very important when it occurs in very young, old, or frail pets.

Look at the vomit and check for any foreign material in it.  If there is anything abnormal, contact your veterinarian. If there is no foreign material in the vomit try resting your pet’s stomach by withholding food for 12 hours and only offering small amounts of water.  Then try small amounts of a bland diet such as boiled hamburger or chicken and rice.  If vomiting persists or your pet has unproductive vomiting (retching) or abdominal distention, call your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Common Toxins

These are some common household items that are toxic.  Keep these items away from areas where pets have access. If your pet becomes exposed, call a veterinarian to determine what should be done.

 Antifreeze: Ingestion of a small amount can be very toxic. It can cause neurologic and kidney damage. Signs include staggering, lethargy, excessive thirst and seizures.

Chocolate: Milk chocolate from candies usually only causes GI upset. Bakers or bittersweet chocolate is much more toxic and can cause over excitement, increased heart rate and seizures.

Some Foods: Common foods that can be toxic for pets are onion, garlic, grapes and raisins as well as sugar free gums containing xylitol.

Rat Poison: Most rat poisons cause bleeding problems due to decreased blood clotting. Vitamin K is the antidote and can be prescribe in cases of exposure.

Tylenol (acetaminophen): Causes red blood cell and liver damage, especially in cats.

Plants: There are many toxic plants to pets. Here is a list of the most commonly ones found in households. For a complete list go to: www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/plants/

Easter Lilly, Tiger Lilly: Kidney damage in cats and GI upset

Rhododendron: GI upset, slow heart rate and shock

Dumb cane, Dieffenbachia: Burning and irritation of the mouth

Mistletoe: GI upset and liver damage

Oleander: GI upset and heart damage

Rhubarb: Neurologic disease.

Iris: GI upset

Larkspur: GI upset and neurologic stimulation

Household Medications

Never give your pet any medications including over the counter medications such as ibuprofen or aspirin without consulting  with your veterinarian first. Many medications for humans can be toxic or could prevent your veterinarian from safely using other important medications to treat your pet.

Skunk Recipe for De-Skunking your Pet

To remove odor after a pet is sprayed by a skunk.

In a bucket mix:

1 quart 3% Hydrogen Peroxide
1/4 cup baking soda
1 teaspoon of hand safe dishwashing liquid

Stir ingredients briefly. It will begin to fizz as the hydrogen peroxide releases bubbles. Have someone hold the pet in the bathtub while you scrub in the solution with a soft brush. Rinse the pet with water.

Use this easy recipe to de-skunk your pet

 

 

Apr 18

Safety Collars for Dogs and Cats

How Safety or Breakaway Collars Could Save Your Pet’s Life

Pets can be in danger of injury while wearing conventional collars

Most pet owners are completely unaware of the risks and possibility of collar strangulation accidents until it is too late.  Safety, or breakaway collars are designed to prevent pets from getting entangled by their collars.  Safety collars can be purchased in most pet supply stores or online at Amazon or Chewy.com

Dogs

Keep Safe Breakaway Collar for Dogs

For dog owners, off-leash play can be dangerous to your pet if the collar gets stuck on something and chokes the dog.  A safety, or breakaway, collar has a special buckle that releases and the collar falls off if gets caught on a fence, deck, crate, kennel, bush or tree.  At the dog park or at doggie daycare, this could easily happen.  Dog often play with their mouths, and when wrestling they sometimes grab the neck area of their playmate.  If teeth get stuck in the collar or the collar gets stuck under the jaw, the dog wearing the collar may panic and cause the collar to tighten and choke. If you cannot let your dog “play naked” without her collar or harness and need to have ID tags for legal or safety reasons, please consider a safety collar.  This will provide a safe off-leash environment that minimizes the risk of injury, or worse, due to a collar mishap.  Some breakaway collars for dogs have a feature that has two D rings that are used when walking the dog with a lead, but has the breakaway clasp for off-leash play.  This is the Keep Safe Collar, and it can be purchased online at Petsmart.com, Chewy.com, and Amazon.com. Also check your nearby pet supply stores for different brands of safety collars and look at the designs to choose the right collar for your dog’s safety.

Cats

It is recommended that you keep a collar and ID tag on your cat at all times.  Even if your cat lives entirely indoors, you can’t guarantee that there will never be an escape. Because cats are so active and climb trees, scale fences, climb on furniture, and crawl into small, tight places, a breakaway or safety collar will release your cat if he gets caught on an object.   The weight of his body releases the catch and lets him escape.  A regular collar in these situations could strangle your cat.  Other types of safety collars for cats feature a short length of elastic fabric woven into the collar that expands when you tug it.  The pressure applied to the collar by tugging creates a space where the cat can slip out of the collar.  Both of these types of collars allow your cat to slip free if the collar gets snagged on window blinds, furniture or fencing.

 

Cat wearing breakaway collar

Why not just leave the collar off?   The dangers of a cat escaping and not being returned to their owner are much greater than the risk of a cat getting a collar caught.  If your cat is wearing a safety collar, there will be no risk of him getting caught on something, wherever he is.

 

 

 

ID Tags Dangers

Because hanging tags are more likely to be caught on objects, check into slide-on collar tags.  They are safer, more durable, and there’s no noisy jingling!  Slide-on ID tags are available on Amazon.com. and Doctors Foster and Smith.  Also check the major pet supply stores for these slider tags.

Slide on ID tags won’t snag on objects and are durable (and quiet!)

happy pets blog id tag slide on 2

Engrave important info on slide on tags for your pet’s safety

 

Apr 11

Exercising Your Dog

The Importance of Giving Your Dog Exercise

Double fetch!

It is very important that your dog gets regular exercise, and there are many health benefits in making sure that he gets enough.  Obviously, the main benefits are that he will be healthier and keep a good weight when he is active.  In the long run, he will live longer.  Dogs that get regular exercise have a reduced risk of heart problems and other illnesses (digestive problems, depression or stress, diabetes, arthritis, and urinary infections), so maintaining their health by exercise is highly recommended.

Exercising your dog can also eliminate unwanted behavior by reducing the boredom that causes chewing or digging.  By focusing your dog’s energy on exercise, he will be less likely to chew or dig.  Exercising also strengthens your dog’s confidence if he is shy or anti-social, especially if you are walking or exercising him where there are other dogs and people.  By interacting with other dogs, he will become more outgoing and happy.

Remember that each dog is an individual and you will need to modify your program accordingly.  Make adjustments for age, breed, and current health issues, and be mindful of environmental conditions (extreme temperatures in summer or winter).

 Different Ways to Exercise Your Dog

Basic Walk

Keep distances short and manageable at first and add a little distance each week.  Use a front-clip halter on your dog and at least a six-foot leash. Don’t forget reflective gear for both you and your dog, and always carry poop bags for cleanup after your pet. Remember that this is his walk, so do let him stop to smell and explore when he wants. Vary your route often so that there will be new sights and smells for him to investigate and enjoy.

Follow the Dog

Try this twist for your daily walks. Instead of walking your dog, have your dog walk you. Wherever he goes (within reason), you go. Think of your dog as a four-legged, furry, walking GPS that isn’t letting you know where the final destination will be. You’ll be amazed where the nose will take the two of you

Fetch

A simple game of fetch can be all that is needed for your dog’s daily exercise fix. Fetch is easy to squeeze into busy schedules, as there is no need to travel far for a game of fetch. A close-by park or backyard works great and on rainy days, fetch can be an indoor sport, played from the comfort of your couch.

Fetch Races
Head to your backyard or a park and throw your pup’s favorite toy—only this time, race him to pick it up (a great way to get your blood pumping). Then wrestle the toy from his grasp, toss, and race him for it again.  You will both get great exercise this way!

On-Leash Running or Jogging

This is a great way to exercise a healthy dog and keep yourself fit, as well. The first essential step is to teach your dog to walk without pulling on his leash.  This creates a safe and enjoyable running or jogging companion. It is important to remember that sustained jogging or running is not recommended for young dogs whose bones haven’t finished growing. It can also be hard on large dogs’ joints and bones. If you have a young dog, check with his veterinarian to find out when it’s safe for him to start running, and if you have a large dog, ask his veterinarian if it’s safe for him to run with you.

Swimming

If your dog is a swimmer, this is an excellent way for him to get exercise. Water fetch is a classic “dog game” that most swimming pups enjoy.  Beware of fast moving currents, surf, or undertow, and use common sense in all aspects of ensuring his safety.  If your dog is not good at swimming but loves the water, do have a properly-sized life jacket for him to wear.  Amazon provides a good selection of life jackets for dogs.

Indoor – Stairs

A simple way to exercise indoors is to utilize your stairway. The steps engage different muscles than those used in a regular walk or run, and they add an extra level of difficulty with the change in elevation. Stand at the top of the stairs and throw a toy down to your dog. When your dog grabs the toy, call his name and have him bring the toy to you. After several rounds of this, he will be ready for a rest!

Indoors – Treadmill

A treadmill is a good way to give your dog indoor exercise. First, allow your dog to get comfortable with the sight and sound of a running treadmill. Next, place your dog on the still treadmill and give him a treat. Turn the treadmill on the lowest speed and give him treats to keep him on the treadmill. You may use the dog’s leash as an aid but never tie your dog to the treadmill. Also, standing in front of the treadmill and rewarding him with treats for walking might make your dog feel more comfortable. Once your dog is adjusted, you can gradually increase the speed to provide a more challenging workout.

You can train your dog to properly use a treadmill for indoor exercise. This is not the way it should be done! lol

Indoor – Trip to the Pet Store!

Take a road trip with your dog to the pet store and walk him through the aisles. Let him smell and try out the different dog toys and meet the other dogs visiting the store.  This will be a pleasant adventure for him while getting some exercise in the process.

 

Don’t make the mistake of assuming that if a dog has access to a yard, he’s getting exercise.  Exercising your dog gets both of you out and about while helping to grow the bond you have with your dog.

It’s the interaction with you that counts!

 

Apr 04

Jake The Stray Cat

Jake the Stray Cat

Odie/Jake

I live in a senior community and there are many neighbors who have pets.  When my Betsy was here with me we would walk several times a day, and during those walks we would see friendly neighbors also walking their dogs.  It is a wonderful bond that is formed when doing these daily rounds with your furry companion.  Many times, I would see a beautiful orange cat running free in areas around my block.  One night last year I saw this orange cat trying to rip open my bag of garbage that I had put out on the curb for pick up the next morning.  It was just before a big thunderstorm and I tried to go out and see if I could get the cat, thinking that he probably belonged to someone on my street and had gotten loose. Of course, he ran away when I approached him and climbed into the bushes in the yard across from me.  Shortly after, we had one of those severe storms that lasted all throughout the night, and I worried about that poor cat out there somewhere in that weather.  During the winter, I would occasionally see the same stray cat again, sometimes out in very cold, icy weather.  I thought about him whenever the weather was extreme, both summer and winter, and I hoped and prayed that he had shelter and some food to keep him alive, somehow.

Last month, I read in our monthly community newsletter that there was a wonderful couple who lived on the next road who discovered the stray cat and started putting food out for him and giving him shelter and warmth in their backyard.  They were trying to catch him to keep him from starving or freezing to death.  In addition to putting food and water out for him, they put a heating pad under an outdoor chair cushion for him to keep warm.  This speaks volumes for their caring, kind hearts.  Although some of their neighbors were not of the same kind nature (we have a leash law in our community) and tried to destroy the feeding bowls, the couple kept on feeding the cat and trying to get him safely inside their home.

happy pets blog jake the stray cat 1 christmas tree

Odie/Jake, finally indoors and safe resting under a kind neighbor’s Christmas tree

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The couple named him Odie, and after a while he trusted them enough to go into their house where he took a long nap under their Christmas tree.

They let him go in and out for a few days until he was stable enough to be taken to a veterinarian where he could be examined.   They took him to the same vet where I took Betsy regularly for nine years.  The Bay Country Veterinary Hospital is an excellent clinic, and all of the doctors and staff are, in my opinion, the best to be found.   Because “Odie” was a stray they did a microchip scan, and to everyone’s surprise he had an active chip from a vet’s office in another county in Maryland. The data on the chip was used to locate the owner, who lived about five miles away from my neighborhood, where the lost cat had been trying to survive for the past two years.

Jake being weighed and examined at vet’s clinic

The owner, Matt, was in the vet’s office in a half hour to claim his cat, who he had originally named Jake. Jake’s history was that he was a stray when found by Matt and his family when they lived in another Maryland county. Jake was approximately two at the time, and his age was now estimated from between 15-17 years old. Apparently, Jake got out of the house one night two years ago, got lost, and ended up in my community.

The couple who befriended Odie/Jake are wonderful people who have taken in strays before, and they say that Jake will not be the last.  I wish more people were as kind and compassionate as Mike and his wife, the couple who saved the beautiful orange cat who roamed our neighborhood streets for two years.  They did the right thing, and so did Jake’s owners by having him microchipped.  By having Jake microchipped and registered, and by Mike and his wife taking him to the vet’s clinic, Jake was alive and was able to be back with his family once again.

I love happy endings (don’t you?), and although Mike and his wife had a difficult time seeing Jake go, they knew that he would have a good home with his owners.  Mike’s thought was, if I had a cat that was missing for two years, I would want the person who found him to try to get my cat back to me.

Mike’s advice is this: “When you see a lost animal please be kind. If you cannot approach it, see if a neighbor can befriend it. Then take it to a local vet or animal shelter that will not euthanize.”

Great advice, Mike, and thank you for your kindness to animals.   There should be more people in this world like you and your wife.

Jake says thank you and goodbye to his rescuers, and hello to his owner

Please see my article on Microchipping Your Dog or Cat (dated March 7) to learn more about the importance of using the microchip process to keep your pets safe and healthy.

Mar 28

Understanding Your Dog’s Body Language

How To Understand Your Dog’s Body Language

dog sticking tongue out

Dogs communicate in many ways with each other, using verbal cues, body language and facial expressions. They also try to communicate with humans using these methods. Hopefully, these tips will help you read your dog’s expressions and postures to help you understand what he’s trying to tell you as well as what he’s feeling.

DogSpeak

Wolves howl to communicate with others in their pack.

The Howl

Howling is a type of communication that goes back to dogs’ ancestral connection with wolves.  Wolves use howling to communicate over long distances and that urge is embedded in your dog’s genetic code.  Dogs will sometimes howl along with sustained noises like sirens, or perhaps musical instruments or singing because these sounds mimic the sound of a classic howl. Howling is also an attempt to locate someone, perhaps you or the dog down the street. When you leave for work, it’s very possible your dog howls in an effort to get you back. When one dog starts howling in the neighborhood, usually many others join in – it’s a conference call of sorts!

The Growl
The growl means “back off.” You’ll see a dog growl when another dog gets interested in his food. Your dog may growl at a stranger he doesn’t like or he may growl at you when you try to take his toy away. It’s actually a very effective way of communicating and may mean that you can probably negotiate his toy away. When a dog is in an aggressive stance and silent, there is the most danger.

The Grunt or Mutter
This is usually indicates that your dog wants something. It’s an interesting sound because it’s almost manipulative – your dog knows if he barks, he’ll get into trouble but the more subtle “grunt” might get him wants he wants. It is also heard when dogs greet other dogs or humans.

The Whimper
Dogs whimper when they’re anxious or hurt. Sometimes they figure out that they get attention when they whimper and use this to their advantage.

The Whine
Whining indicates frustration. They are in a sense “complaining” about something, and it can also be an attention getting verbalization. It is important to remember that whining can indicate that your dog is in pain or feeling excessive anxiety.

The Bark
There are many different types of barks. A high pitched bark indicates excitement and happiness. A low pitched bark indicates aggression and is possibly a threat. Dogs bark to get attention, to respond to other dogs, to indicate that they’re happy, and to alert their human to a problem.  It’s possible that your dog may detect a “problem” that you can’t see or hear, such as a siren miles away or the neighbor’s cat hiding in the tree outside the window.

Dog Body Language/Facial “Expressions”

Relaxed

Stance – lying down or standing without any alertness

Tail – up and wagging or lying naturally

Ears – at their normal state, depending on the breed (A Terrier’s would be up but relaxed, a Hound’s would be down)

Eyes – normal pupil dilation, focused but not staring

Mouth – open and lightly panting or closed

Confident and Relaxed

Stance – erect

Tail – wagging slowly

Ears – pricked up but with a relaxed look

Eyes – small pupils

Mouth – closed or slight parting of lips

Fearful or Anxious

Stance – lowered

Tail – tucked under

Ears – down

Eyes – a wide-eyed look with the whites showing

Mouth – panting

Aggressive

Stance – rigid

Tail – straight up or out behind, very rigid

Ears – pricked up

Eyes – intense, focused stare

Mouth – lips are pulled back and some teeth show

Hackles – this is a line of hair that starts at the base of the neck and runs down the shoulders. It is raised if a dog is feeling aggressive and lowered if he is relaxed.

Fear-Aggressive

Stance – dog is pulled into himself

Tail – tucked completely under

Ears – lying down

Eyes – wide-eyed and trouble focusing

Mouth – lips pulled back slightly or heavy panting

Remember when Lassie sprinted off down the road to find help because Timmy had fallen into a well? (Some of us are old enough to remember that tv series!) Through her verbal cues and body language she was able to lead the rescuers back to the disaster scene. By understanding our dogs’ language, we can better communicate with them and avoid common misunderstandings.

happy pets blog lassie and timmy

What’s the matter, Lassie? What is it, girl?

 

 

Mar 21

Litter Box Problems – Prevention and Solutions

Preventing and Solving Cat Litter Box Problems

happy pets blog cat beautiful eyes

If you find that your cat is not using his litter box for elimination, there may be several causes for this common problem.

Medical Issues

Many medical conditions can contribute to litter box problems. Colitis, inflammatory bowel disease, hyperthyroidism, kidney or liver disease, urinary infections, and diabetes can all contribute to litter box rejection.  If there is pain involved in a cat’s medical issues, as in arthritis, constipation, anal sac disease, or colitis, this may cause him to associate pain with his litter box.  If your cat has arthritis or kidney disease, or if he is elderly, be sure that his box is low enough for him to get into comfortably.

Please have your cat thoroughly checked by a veterinarian to determine if a physical malady is the cause of the problem.

Litter Box Cleanliness

Most cats are particular about litter box hygiene and will often refuse to use it if it isn’t kept clean. If he doesn’t think the box is clean, he may use the area around the box, and some cats will not use a litter box that was recently used by another cat. Clean/strain the litter box at least twice daily and wash the box once a week (using soap and warm water….do not use a strong-smelling disinfectant).

Clean any soiled areas outside of the box with an enzyme-based cleaner, such as Nature’s Miracle, which is available on Chewy.com or Amazon.com, or in any major pet supply store.  Regular cleaners do not break down the urine or stool traces, so cleaning with these will deter your cat from using that same spot again.

Stress

Stress can be a factor in litter box problems

Cats experience stress from major changes such as moving, new family dynamics, grief, and changes in routine.  They can also be upset by smaller changes which may include rearranged or new furniture, new litter box location, or using a different brand of litter.  It is important to note that if stress is causing your cat to soil areas outside of his box, you need to give him plenty of attention, care, and reassurance to help him adjust. Extra play time is very helpful in these situations, as well.  Consider using a product that contains calming pheromones, Feliway (also available on Chewy.com or Amazon.com), and is designed to reduce anxiety, which in turn can reduce spraying and soiling.  When you have identified and are working on resolving the cause of spraying and have also thoroughly cleaned the area, try feeding your cat in that same area.  They will not urinate and eat in the same place, so this may stop your cat from using this same spot again.

 

 

Litter Preference

If you have changed litter brands lately, try switching back to the original brand and type.  Also try different depths of litter.   If you often find excess litter on the floor around his box, you’re probably using too much.  Try to aim for around 2 inches in depth of litter.

Litter Box Location

Avoid placing his box near his food and water.  Cats like privacy when using their litter boxes, so place it in an area where there is not much family traffic.  If he has access to different floors in your house, provide a box on every floor.

Spraying – What is it and why?

If you find a urine puddle against a wall or along the side of a chair or sofa, this is spraying, not urinating outside of his box.  It is not an emptying of the bladder as when a cat squats, but is done standing up with the tail straight up.  It’s not clear whether it is done to mark territory or a warning for trespassers to stay away, but both males and females spray. Male cats do it more frequently, and unneutered males almost always do it.  If the cat is an unneutered male and has just started to do it, neutering will often stop that behavior as hormones play a significant role in urine marking.  To change the cat’s marking behavior, punishment should never be used.  Instead, determine the conflict that may be causing the stress or reason behind the spraying and try to resolve the issue (stray cats outside, or being bullied by another family pet, for example).   Clean the sprayed areas with an enzyme-based cleaner (Nature’s Miracle) to remove traces of the urine odor.  If your cat is an indoor and outdoor cat, you may need to keep him indoors if the stressful behavior is related to something outside.

Productive and interactive toys are helpful in keeping him busy, and it is suggested that you try cuddling and petting him in the space where he has been spraying.  Again, the use of Feliway can be very helpful in keeping him calm and de-stressed.

Solve your cat’s litter box problem

General Tips

Have a veterinarian check your cat thoroughly for any medical issues that may be causing the litter box problem.

Pick a good location for the box, semi-private and not close to family traffic, but not in corners or closets where he might feel trapped.

Keep the box away from your cat’s food and water.

Avoid using covered boxes as many cats appear to be reluctant to use them.  They may feel uncomfortable in the small, enclosed space and with the concentrated odor.

Consider the size of the box related to the size of your kitten or cat.  Small kittens will need a smaller box with lower sides, and will need a larger box as they grow.

If you adopt another cat or kitten, provide an additional box for the new arrival.

Select the kitty litter carefully.  Generally recommended are litter types that are plain, unscented, and clumping.  Once your cat seems pleased with a certain type and brand, stick with that litter and do not change.  Also, aim for a 2 inch depth of litter in the box.

KEEP THE LITTER BOX CLEAN! Wet clumps and solid wastes should be scooped out twice daily.  The entire box should be emptied, washed out with warm water and mild soap at least once a week.  Do not use strong-smelling cleaners or disinfectants as this may discourage your cat from using the box.

DO NOT PUNISH!  This only increases your cat’s stress and anxiety and will likely make the problem worse.  It is important to remember that litter box problems have nothing to do with spite.

Inappropriate elimination is a common and frustrating problem.  While it can be difficult to control, it is important to address it as early as possible and determine the cause of the behavior.  Time, effort and patience on your part will play an important part in resolving the problem.

The key is to be positive and reassuring while giving your cat stability and structure.  Be sensitive to his needs and issues.  If you invest in quality time and attention,  you and your cat will both be rewarded.

happy pets blog cat and young man

 

 

 

**Thinking Outside the Box – How to Stop Your Cat Peeing Outside the Litter Box is an excellent guide for frustrated owners of cats who are urinating outside of their litter boxes.  The proven system goes into the causes for inappropriate urination, whether it’s a behavioral or medical issue, urinating vs spraying, plus many more helpful tips for cat care. This training system contains a foolproof formula for learning how to re-train your cat to use her litter box. and it’s 100% guaranteed!  Please take a look!

 

 

 

** I am an affiliate for this company.